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The above duplicate tread has been referred to this one. Per Community Guidelines please avoid creating duplicate threads in the future. This only scatters relevant information across multiple threads, making it harder to track diagnostic related information. Also note that members often build off of the comments of other NPORA Members, by keeping responses in one place it helps discussions come to a solution more quickly.

@Mr_Reverse The funny thing is that I looked at that $80 price tag, still thinking you were looking for end links, and thought, "Man, he must have found the most premium of premium links for that price!" and seriously didn't think "trailing arms". May have just been verbiage... Anyway, here are those dimensions instead for R50 trailing/control arms/links, whatever we're calling them: Lower length, center-to-center bushings: 26-1/2" Upper length, center-to-center bushings: 12-1/8" Bushing inner sleeve width/length: 60mm Bushing tube length: 46mm Bushing tube ID: 50mm OE Bolt: M14 x 1.5 x 85mm (excludes unthreaded portion that makes the bolt long overall) Also, Whiteline says their rear trailing arm bushings fit both WD21 and R50. There are two p/ns W63351 (full poly) and W61705A (OEM style) available; their dimensions correspond with my numbers. Given that, I'd say it's just a matter of determining if the length of the arms works for you.

Got the passenger side upper and lower balljoints torqued down and idler arm along with everything that needed to be rethreaded, bearing regressed and all back together. Respooled the winch and tied the tire carrier that got rammed in the snow and bent to a tree and bent it back straight. Now on to getting an allignment again after releveling the truck, make a gas can holder to the back of the tire gate and table finally that should have been done forever ago. I've only got 7 weekends at most so should be enough time if people let me work on it.

The truck has definitely seen some use and abuse since my install, but not so much lately (and with the near 6" of lift, it's even more out of reach). Where the rear has typically been prone to the most damage is up around Sedona with all the rock-steps. If it weren't for my trailer hitch bearing the brunt of things, I'm not sure how the carrier may have faired. I'm thinking maybe I need some sort of hitch-mount slider or something to protect the tire, just in case.

I put those dimensions here with another post of mine regarding links: Also, if the links end up working, they're dirt cheap at Rock Auto...like <$4 each before shipping.

Went to my local Pull-A-Part today and stocked up on some much-needed r50 supplies. Also grabbed some Hella Saab relays some Nissan's as well. Didn't know Hella made relays for Saab do now. Got some switches out of a 97 Mitsubishi Montero. Exact same switches Nissan uses(Niles) just slight differences. They fit perfectly. Also picked up some rear glass hinges and the rubber that sits on the bottom. Boost sensor, and 2 other emission sensors(cant think of the names) ashtray light,clock, cam sensor, diode and rear hatch bumpers. All in all a great trip. Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

Drum brake trucks with single-taper bearings used thrust blocks. Disc brake WD21 and D22 Frontiers, WD22 Xterras, and R50s (all drum brakes) used double-taper bearings, but not thrust blocks. The note about it not fitting drum brakes makes no sense because R50s only had drum brakes. My R50 is the exception. ?

Looks awesome, I’m very jealous of those who can find the elusive spare tire carrier! I keep looking around here but none to be found yet.

finally got the chance to do the missing link ! my pipe turned out to be steel as well. used my hand sledge and hammered the ends flat and drilled holes. the 1” flattened out to 2” so i had to grind some away. for once things went smoothly. i also painted the grill black and put it back on and moved my lights down. pics in the morning weather permitting. i would’ve tonight but it’s dark lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

finished the cvs today and the manual hubs. such a relief now that that’s done. hell of a lot easier with the new impact gun. now i need more time to finish the damn lca brace. i also relocated my knock sensor to the front of the engine with a 2001 altima sensor and connector. break the black outside of the connector so you just have the prongs and it fits up to the connector we have on ours, the light blue. i mounted it in the front center of the motor using a longer bolt above a coolant hose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

not a pathfinder, but here’s my ride to prom tonight. My grandpa’s restores 66 GTO, bored out motor and headers, among other things

Trailer hitch picked up today. In need of some repainting due to rust, but not bad. A little more expensive than I expected but oh well

Make sure you do the power valves: POWER VALVES http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/?do=embed