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[Rant on] Nissan didn't make it easy on us. Long ago I was a huge hater of Toyotas until I owned my 2017 Taco 6spd. That thing had TONS of room in the engine bag, superior front suspension to all but the latest Nissan trucks and diffs that wouldn't blow up if you looked at them wrong (they were also steel housings). This VQ motor is superior to what a 2002 4 Runner had, but that's it. We are very limited with our front suspensions and there is no aftermarket. I will take my VQ and its disastrous engine bay, my 17 taco had room for 3 batteries under the STOCK engine bay and better aftermarket than Jeep. I can live without the aftermarket but damn Nissan....[/Rant on] In order to do a diff drop I had to cut the mounting points on the diff brackets and weld some steel in place to drop the mounting points by 3/4". The bottom of my diff still sits just above the front subframe lower rail, but the CV angle is much better. This worked so well I would like to get some junkyard brackets and drop it down more like 1.25" Of course, this hasn't been tested. They could fail causing the world to stop and life as we know it to end, but I will take my chances.

Well..... It did not go as planned ! I tried to freeze the capacitors (and pretty much everywhere I could on the board) and was not successful at making the ghosting disappear (now that the truck is in the heated garage). I still went ahead and replace the 50V 33mf capacitor and it did not change anything.... I think I'm gonna need a professional in electronics for this one... i'll keep everyone informed if anything changes.. S.

Yeah, jump on that. The style alone is hard to find. As for the lock...there's an integrated slot on the mount to put a padlock through it and one of the wheel stud holes. It was Nissan's way of locking it, as opposed to a simpler lug-nut lock. Given the design, you'll need to remove the "carrier" (tire mounts to it) from the "frame" (carrier mounts to it) in order to access the backside of the padlock to cut it off. Presuming the carrier didn't change much from the prior design, 4 nuts hold the carrier to the frame but you might have to get crafty reaching them around the tire. Edit: pic below of prior carrier model. Sorry I don't have the means to mark-up the image, but you can see the 4 nuts on the carrier between the vertical tubes of the frame. That oval-ish hole on the carrier is where the padlock inserts and comes through the little hole to the right, which lines up with a wheel stud hole. For anyone wanting a lock, I used a Rugged Ridge 16715.22 M12x1.25 wheel lock (http://a.co/d/1BPsRfC). If I could've found a set with 5 wheel locks, I would've gone that route.

Brake cable came in and they are an exact match. Crawled under the truck and measured the cables, same length. This thread was all over the place, so to sum things up for someone perusing this thread: Rear DISC and Rear DRUM are different part numbers. 36530-42G16, 36531-42G16 are the OEM part numbers for the REAR DISC Pathfinders (see post 16,18). I think the 36530-42G15, 36531-42G15 are the Terrano part numbers. New cables are hard to come by these days and Rockauto, among others, only carry the cables for the rear DRUMS. Post 20 illustrates the differences, so make sure you specify the cables you are ordering for the Terrano if ordering from overseas vendor. Paid $89 delivered for the set.