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To elaborate on what mjotrainbrain said... to lift with springs changes all of the suspension geometry angles which affects all of the suspension attributes (bump steer and alignment for instance). And the limitation with this vehicle is the CV joint angles, which limit you to about 2.5" maximum. This also results in a suspension that has more compression than extension which causes another set of problems. When lifting by SFD, none of that is affected and the suspension can retain all of the stock characteristics while getting a lift. It's great. The only thing it doesn't improve is the ground clearance at the differentials, but that's the nature of the thing.... All in all, it's the better way to lift IMO.

That is a fantastic video. Well worth the 20 mins to watch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea mjotrainbrain, I'm lucky where I live, rust ain't much of a problem here. It's to dry and they don't salt the roads.

Thanks for sharing the video, that is pretty amazing how well he cleaned those engine bays.

ChrisFix made a video on this topic. I haven't tried it, but it seems like a pretty good method.

97 Qx4 Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

Yes, that'll work. At home, I just use a bottle degreaser, let it set a couple minutes, then just hose it off. At a spray-and-wash bay, I use the engine/tire degreaser and low pressure rinse. In both cases, I avoid any direct spray towards electrical parts and the air intake. Neither. Factory Service Manual. Unfortunately, I don't know if you'll be able to find a 1990 one online, but I know a 1993 one is available at https://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html. It might get you closer than 3rd party manual even for the same year.

If the wheel bearings on the WD21 are anything like an R50, part of the assembly is a disk that threads into the spindle and has holes in it. Those holes align with something else and screws go through em. If you don't get the disk tightened down far enough the wheel bearings will be a little loose. It can be a bear to tighten it down until the next position where the holes align, but when you do it'll all be better. About 1500 miles after I did the bearings on my R50 I had to pull it apart and tighten it one more position, as the bearings had settled in while driving a little better than I could get em by hand.

I would just rebuild your current TD27 or as you've done find a good one. The TD engine is one of the most reliable on the planet, but they are prone to overheating if the cooling system is neglected. I'd buy a new radiator or have the old one flushed properly to avoid blowing the head on your new engine. I have the QD32ETI in my R50 Terrano and it's a great engine, heaps of power.

If it was, that has to be the worst wind tunnel in history