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Some extra pictures.... Again any undercarriage hosing routes you see were tied down and cleaned up, just tryna give a reference as best as I can as to how it was all done. On the passenger side of the car Nissan runs various cables underneath the car with a wire/hose clamp/bracket?¿ you’d see what I mean if you look under the car. Anyways that clamp has one extra unused slot which i used to hide and organize the air hose all the way through the rear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m sure it’s not only the links but the shocks and coils too that feel much tighter on turns as opposed to the OME and 5100 set up I had prior. I read what towndog said earlier about his set up not having as much droop in the rear and and I definitely notice that improvement in my ride quality. Courtesy of [user]hawairish[/user] for the bad ass sway-bar links he designed and fabricated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The air compressor was definitely the biggest part of the project that required custom fabrication of mounting brackets, which came out top notch thanks to [user]hawairish[/user]. There was a solid 40+ hours into the compressor install which I’m sure hawairish can fill in more about than I can. My engine bay is that of an 02 pathfinder which I believe should be identical to 00-02 pathfinders (i may be wrong). We initially drew up all the prints to mount the compressor in the rear underneath the car but then playing around with the engine bay we saw a possibility to mount it on the right side and re-align the fuse box. I have a viair 485c compressor, we took off the factory mounts and repositioned the compressor to its side where we have atleast a quarter inch clearance from the hood when fully closed. There is a custom bracket that mounts two of the legs on the viair and then a third leg is supported by a inch and half or so spaced where there’s a bolt and a washer keeping it mounted..... I’ll do another update where i unmount the compressor and show the actual brackets on both the fuse box and the viair Mind you we used factory mounting points and drilled no new holes into the engine bay or anywhere else in the car. A four way air manifold is connected to the compressor hose and fitted with the solenoid (which clears the air box perfectly), and then air’d to the front bumper quick connect and a second air manifold by the air-intake box. The air manifold was mounted to the intake box (no other place had clean enough and large enough fitment to run everything smooth and easily, keep in mind that all this is fitted for easy dismounting and assembling if ever in need of a possible repair) in pneumatics dozens of things can go wrong which leads to possible needs of repair. With the way everything is mounted, fixing possible leaks or wiring is extremely easy. The power and air hose is ran around the engine bay to the battery followed by the air hosing routed to the rear of the car. *the hoses you see in the pictures were during the install and were zip tied and fitted to the body. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

97 Qx4 Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

Yes, that'll work. At home, I just use a bottle degreaser, let it set a couple minutes, then just hose it off. At a spray-and-wash bay, I use the engine/tire degreaser and low pressure rinse. In both cases, I avoid any direct spray towards electrical parts and the air intake. Neither. Factory Service Manual. Unfortunately, I don't know if you'll be able to find a 1990 one online, but I know a 1993 one is available at https://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html. It might get you closer than 3rd party manual even for the same year.

Nice job! You guys knocked it out! Love the use of the coin drawer. The arrangement of the underhood hardware looks like an option that could have come with a "Field Base" model Regulus. You two did a great job. Good to hear you're happy with the setup. It's not as plush as the OME's but, paired up with polyurethane all around, on and offroad performance are great with the ride feeling tight and sporty. Looking forward to hearing about more progress and some trail time

For the sway links. You’ll need to have those lengthened, I know towndog and hawairish know a few brands that sell them but as for mine, they were quickly fab’d up over the weekend when we saw that the oem ones wouldn’t fit. So if you get the 6 inch lift... no doubt you’ll need new extended sway links For the 5165s mine clear with about a quarter inch space between the reservoir hose and the tire.... although not sure yet if i was to go through some extreme terrain if the hose would rub or not...... towndog’s are perfect although his were done with a refitted shock mount. I’m assuming his 5165s have a different reservoir hose mount because they must be for a different model ford (mine are for 2013-18 fords, and their shock mounts are designed different then ours so the reservoir hose wouldn’t be an issue for fords). I went with the ones I have because i didnt want to use a shock strap or go through refitting the shock mount... so they fit perfect for the 6 inch lift but the hose placement can be seen as a possible issue. Though through some flex tests and me at 255lbs jumping on the car... the hose had about a quarter inch still from touching the tires... imo I’ll be okay for the overlanding and any wheeling i plan on doing. Although I’ll definitely update in the future if any issues do come up.. The combo is great and I definitely notice a difference in ride quality, I gifted [user]hawairish[/user] with a pair of bushings for the shocks in hopes that we all convince him to get a pair of 5165s ! I kept the air lift for the sake that we already had them installed and if i ever choose to tow xterras outa trouble if they break down on any green trails. *jokes* but in all honesty I kept them for the sake that they were already installed and fitted, all that needs to be done to reinstall them to the LR coils is to just shove them back in and reconnect the air line..... soo i figured why not, took a few minutes. Now to admit and drop a hint on a future upgrade.... the air lift may have slightly help stiffen up the rear since I have a bit of death wobble from bore out bushings on my trailing arms (oem) which are only a year old! Safe to say trailing arm updates are bound to come next. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The air gauge & switch in that drawer is brilliant. That’s a pretty worthless space & putting your air controls where you don’t always have to look at them is perfect. Brilliant idea. Super happy to hear the 5165s worked well with those LR Springs as@TowndawgR50 & I were planning on doing that to my rig. Sounds like I know which ones to use now. Definitely need those other part numbers for the bushings. I’m definitely going to need@TowndawgR50s assistance with that. I want to keep my rear sways but it looks like I can use the OEM links for now but will need to figure out an answer for when we put the SFD in place. I see you kept the AirLifts. Was that just because you were already plumbed for them? Both@TowndawgR50 & I had them but he discarded them with the LR Springs & I was planning on doing the same. The onboard air looks great. I was planning on putting my breather bracket in that location so now I think I will put it elsewhere to leave that space open for that option. Thanks for the pix & write up. Man, that white & black sure looks good!

The interior aspect of the build turned out really clean. Underneath the driver side air vent and above the hood release there is an empty box compartment .... turned that into The drawer still opens and closes with the switch and pressure gauge clearing. The switch is also wired to the power cable on the off-road lights which allows the compressor to be ran while the car is off if. I feel that a couple posts can’t even justify exactly how much work happened this weekend not only in labor but also fabricating and brainstorming the entire set up. Im extremely grateful hawairish was willing to take on such a huge project with me and help me out a ton. This wouldn’t have been possible without him. It’s an awesome set up that turned out perfectly. With so many hours thrown into this build I’m sure my mind is scattered and missing something I haven’t mentioned yet. Shoot away any questions about it or pictures you guys would like to see. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rear install, will do a size comparison pic later this week when I get a chance. Shock mount required to have refitted 5/8 size bushings. Took some work to grind a simple shock bearing out. It may look like a small issue but these required some thought and work to get a clean cut and fit to not damage the shock mounts. The metal sleeve that bilstein makes these with is permanently fitted to the rubber eye so it will all need to be removed (we used a drill press and floor press to get the bushing removed) and then just fitted in a 5/8 eye. * I’ll include part numbers in a summary post * Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I purchased the strip L.E.D's from Wal-Mart for 20$. What's cool about them is you can actually cut them to fit which I find really cool. I just wireed them in to my parking lights or running lights everyone calls them different. As far as my headlights go I got them from a guy in Canada he bought them for his 01 pathy and didn't realize they wouldn't fit I was very fortunate in my find. My fogs I purchased a yellow Amber bulb off eBay It's actually an LED doesn't really put out a whole lot o light. It's more for looks than anything. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

Perfect explanation. Thanks for your help!

An SFD is usually built to give 3 or 4 inches of lift, which can be paired with lift coils to go as high as 6 inches of lift or even more if you're ambitious!

Basically it's the only way to lift over ~2.5". The CV's in the front end only have so much angle they can handle, so to lift higher you need to lower the diff. On other 4x4's with full frames diff drops are common (for example, look at a 6" or 8" lift kit for a fullsize IFS truck). With the R50 platform you can't simply drop just the diff, so the entire front subframe gets spaced down to give lift. This actually works really well because in addition to moving the diff, it moves the steering and control arms down as well do maintain all of the stock suspension geometry. Hopefully that description is helpful and not confusing!

OME HD front coils KYB struts. Warren hubs I had an issue I stated earlier with not having a missing link and having a repair done... the welds I have on are solid I wont probably be messing with the front until I am ready to do a SAS in the future Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My front end has a 4 inch lift with a 3inch subframe drop. More to come in time, tough to do even what we achieved in this past weekend haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So after some long and hard thought I am not going to send her to the junk yard. She was my first 4 wheel drive and car I bought on my own (I'm 17 btw). I'm going to buy a rebuilt engine and throw it in. But while it is out I'm going to take my time and clean up the engine bay, go through the whole thing and replace whatever it needs. Also the most exciting part I'm going to get or build a SFD and install it while i have all the room I need. If anyone has the templates or measurements for a 4 inch SFD i will be very interested in buying them or if you willing throw them my way. wish me luck

I really liked using that tray for the gauges, too. That was his idea, and I took it from there. I think I'll do something similar to relocate some items and put a double-DIN stereo back in. As for the Bilsteins, I like how they turned out overall, but that straight fitting concerns me. It's fine for everyday use and some trails, but a hard tuck could be really bad. I have an idea on how to correct that, and probably fix TownDawg's problem of too-long shocks. The sway bar links...we kind of forgot about this going into the project and needed to improvise. All I had was some square tube remnants from the side gate I replaced the other year (that gate is seriously the gift that keeps on giving!), and it was a perfect fit for the round stock of the OE links. I just cut them in half, ground down some flat spots to take a weld, and drilled some holes into the square tube to do a few fill welds. The OD of the bar was a perfect fit for the tube stock; so much that I used my floor press to fit them together to the right length. We extended them exactly 4". We kept the air bags mainly because it was already plumbed. When I had installed those previously on the truck, we had replaced the OE bumpstop with a round disc so the bag had a flat surface to compress against, but still used a 2" body spacer/puck to extend the contact surface (I have the same body puck on mine, but I'm using OE style bumpstop). After flexing a little, we also decided that keeping the bags filled a little might avoid contact between tire and shock hose. Using that space for a compressor...man, it took a LOT of thinking and bunch of adjustments. Having now done two R50 engine bay air compressor installs...that is seriously the last one. For his, the front-left brake line was bent a bit for clearance. Wires for two of the harnesses in that area were extended several inches. The mounting bracket over the strut tower was modified in a few ways. A support leg on the fuse box was cut off. I used the plasma cutter to make the brackets for the air compressor and for the fuse box. Just a lot of items, and fitment for everything else was tight. I kept telling him that the next time he needs an air compressor installed, I'm just mounting it in a toolbox! Oh yeah, and somewhere in between, we had to redo two of the rivnuts on the tire carrier latch. I think when you plan to do that, we may have to talk about necessary reinforcement.

No worries [user]raingoat[/user] I try my best in write ups with this being my first, sure I’ll get better in detail as new things come along but not even close to hawairish’s posts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not sure what you mean by this. Can you explain?

Haha sorry for the late update... definitely a busy weekend and week too back home... The 5165s and LR springs are a match made in heaven. Did 400 miles since the install and cruised through some basic terrain and the ride runs muchhhhh smoother than with my previous set up with ome and 5100s Would like to hit up holy Jim trail down here this weekend and see how it runs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk