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Well let’s talk about the vibration characteristics. How would you describe the vibration? Is it low frequency like death wobble? Or is it a medium frequency like the hum of your engine? Or high frequency like the roar of a wheel bearing? When the CVs (both at same time) went bad in our old MDX it was a combination of medium frequency vibrations that waxed and waned with very low frequency and violent vibrations that increased with acceleration. When my steering rack bushings gave out the vibrations were low frequency and could be seen in the shaking of the steering wheel side to side. When my drivers side wheel bearing went out there was what seemed like white noise at highway speeds with vibrations that felt like traveling over ice in a sled at lower speeds. When my control arm bushing went out is was also low frequency and extremely violent.. like shake the car so hard you can’t see straight violent.

The neutral white map light LEDs I got were from Amazon. They have more LED emitters than the superbrightled ones. But that Amazon brand didn’t offer red LED map lights so I got those on superbrightled.com Neutral White BA9S Map Light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DNMX832?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title Red BA9S Map Light: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/bayonet-bulbs/ba9s-led-boat-and-rv-light-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-ba9s-retrofit-96-lumens/2543/4725/#/attributes/13 Warm White 31mm Dome Light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075MC9QTZ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title 74 Wedge Style Dash Light: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/74-led-bulb-3-smd-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/228/1068/#/attributes/10820 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check for a code with a scanner or do the manual check with a CEL flash count before spending any money.

I'd start with the easy stuff first. Replace the fuel filter which isn't fun. And then when mine did the same thing it ended up being the spark plugs. I didn't belive it because they were at only half their mileage. But I forgot and had used cheaper plugs. They were in bad shape. And be sure to pull the codes. Mine was misfire on various cylinders. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Definitely on board with onespiritbrain. It might be able to be narrowed down that way. And yeah, depending on the size of your tires altogether, 0.5mm just won’t cause that much trouble due to the angular velocity and rotation of the tire, a difference of 0-0.5mm is so tiny that the differential or TCase won’t see it when it’s geared in proportion. That CV angle sounds like a bit of a flag however. Is this the first time you’ve experienced this after the lift? Did you lift it recently, and now that you’re using 4WD you notice it? Or have you had the lift for a while and this only now started?

Some things don’t hurt to pack with new grease after a while. Not sure what year you’ve got, but most are the same in the topic of where can be greased. I like to keep my front driveshaft greased, I pack grease into my hubs whenever I have them open, tie rod ends if they’re not OEM (my MOOG ones have grease fittings), U-Joints don’t hurt either. If you do any mudding or water crossing frequently, keeping your drivetrain packed with hi-temp marine grease is good practice too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It won’t protect your sides very well so it’s mainly for parking lot bumps & brush on the centerline between ruts. It would also give a mounting point for auxiliary lights but I don’t think that’s as important in these days of ditch lights & LED bars. I’m not as sure on the Quey but I love what[mention=40509]Pathy_02[/mention] has done with his grill LED. That & ditch lights would completely meet the forward & lateral light I was needing back in my desert days. There are roof mounted light bars too (& for cheap) but they reportedly whistle alot & the reflected light is pretty bad so they’re best for low speed work or looking for a campsite.

Doesn't look like it sticks up high enough to damage the rest of the front end if it moves, so that's a plus. Probably mounts about the same as what RainGoat's got. Doesn't look like it covers much, though.

Thanks for the replies guys. So I measured the tread depth in multiple locations and only got about 0.5 mm difference front to back. I'm going to swap around a front and rear tire but Im not getting my hopes too high for this to solve the issue, since Quasars we're about 3 mm different. I inspected the front driveshaft again. There is some VERY slight play in the Tcase flange compared to the diff flange which has none. Also, the piece on the shaft that is closest to the Tcase but still rotates with the shaft (dust cap?) is not seated evenly, not sure if that matters. Also also, when I rotate the shaft I can feel both U-joints articulate slightly, so I guess the diff/Tcase aren't perfectly aligned? Though that's what U-joints are for right? But still, could be the sag from the mount bushings I guess... The CV angles are pretty steep. OME HD coils and a 1" spacer so maybe 2.5-3" of lift and no SFD. At least one of my CV axles is from the junkyard, can't remember about the other. There is a tiny tear in one (on the edge where the boot doesn't flex) that I covered with RTV and it's held up so far. The underside is surprisingly clean, I hope to keep it that way so I'll save the grease pumping for when I'm really desperate haha. I hope it gets resolved. The truck is a joy to drive with the new suspension and has held up amazingly well for being 16 years old with 150k miles. Sucks to have it spoiled when trying to use it like it should be.

I like the Led’s around your fog and turn signals. Tell us more? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh yeah it slings grease for sure but it washes off with a power washer. The underside of my vehicle is a dirty dirty place.. my leaking rack coats everything all the way back to the transfer case with a layer of oil. Rust protection. :] If the vibration is coming from his CVs then packing them with grease can temporarily reduce the vibrations. It’s like over packing a worn electric motor bearing to buy time until you have the replacement. If you do pack your CVs then the thicker the grease the better. It wont stop the vibrations for very long and you can repack them again to confirm. And Quasar is right, it’ll be a mess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Initiated Spotter training for my 7yo

OK, this Trick/workaround worked on my daughters 98 pathfinder! I connected a Jump starter battery pack to her battery terminals, No Key In The Ignition. I found a fuse that was HOT Fuse 25, (Labeled ELEC B) in the fuse box that is located under the drivers side dash). I pulled fuse 25, the left terminal as you are looking up at it, is the hot side. I pulled fuse 8, (labeled METER) it is in the center row of the fuse box, second one down. The right side terminal of fuse 8 is the load side which feeds the instrument cluster. I used a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end. On each end I clipped on a paper clip. I stuck the paper clip of one end of the jumper into the left(hot) side of fuse 25 and the other end into the right (load) side of fuse 8. SUCCESS. All of the idiot lights lit up and the Odometer lit up showing the mileage! You do not have to connect a jumper starter to the battery terminals. You can take the same jump start pack, or a cordless drill battery, then get a second alligator clip jumper wire and connect the negative side of the battery to a decent grounding point. I used the door hinge bolt. Use the alligator clip jumper set up mentioned above to connect the positive side of the power source to the right side of fuse 8 . It works, I used a Dewalt 14 vdc drill battery as well for this trick. I wasn't brave enough to try an 18-20v cordless tool battery on her pathfinder. Maybe I will try a junkyard find in the future. I think onespiritbrain will find out wires #12 and #2 from the instrument wiring connector will power up the cluster as well if it is removed from the vehicle. Remember, pins #12 (hot) and #2 (ground) are located where the white 16 pin connector plugs into the back of the instrument cluster. If you cut the cluster wiring harness off a few inches when you remove the cluster from a junkyard find, it will make it even easier to connect your power source. Just strip those two wires back a little and connect your power source. A 9 volt battery powered up the idiot light's, but NOT the odometer. That would have been nice if it worked. The heart of this instrument cluster is called the "Unified Meter Control Unit". This is what we are powering up. It essentially is the brains of the instrument cluster. The mileage is stored in the instrument cluster, NOT the ECU. Hope this helps somebody. It took you longer to read this write up than it will take you to perform this trick/workaround. UPDATE: 18-20 VDC portable tool batteries work as well. I used a Milwaukee M18 battery today on an 04 Xterra and it worked fine. Someone took all of the fuses out of the Xterra along with the steering wheel and ignition switch. I just grounded the negative side of the battery to some metal, and touched both sides of every fuse socket with the positive side of the battery's jumper until the idiot lights/odometer lit up.

Maybe this will help someone else. I did not find it until I had already gone through all my fuses. Oh well it’s fixed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t really want to go through all the hassle of changing everything to Petrol, I grew up with diesel land cruisers and love the noise they make. Yeah it seems to be a bit temperamental with highway driving, it’s got busted gaskets and I think the previous owner has had an issue with over heating because it doesn’t run right and the radiator fluid is white which is consistent with a gasket sealer fluid. I actually found another WD21 2.7td with lots of goodies and a bad body in my city last night. The motor is really strong so I’m picking that up next weekend and I’ll strip it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope these came from overseas. Got them from a guy in Canada. There the real deal. I've got a pic somewhere of my old headlights illuminated. If you look closely you can see XENON printed on the glass. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50