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In regards to the IACV/ECU issue, the ECU only needs to be repaired AFTER an IACV failure. When the IACV fails, it causes a short that only effects 1 circuit in the ECU. I've owned my 01 since new, have ~180k on her now and other than routine maintenance and a few sensors, she's been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. Very capable and versatile in near stock form as well. It gets tight for space now with 2 kids and the dog, and I know I really would be better served with a full-size SUV, but this thing has been so good to me (and shows no signs of quitting) that I can't bring myself to get rid of her. At this point I'm curious to see how far she'll go!

Stripped off my load bars, rail mounted Yakima Basket Case, all the rail slides & the rails themselves in preparation for mounting a full length Rola V-Tech rack. I haven’t been able to adequately access the roof under that Yakima basket for about 14 years. I’m going to clean it all up, wax it & remount the rails. I’m still working on the rack mount. I’ll use the rail slides & conduit clamps but after seeing another R50 with just those (Pathy_02), I feel it needs another 1cm - 1” elevation to be able to put cam strap hooks around the lower bars & that will also allow the sunroof to function without interference. Something tells me that I’ll be dealing with wind noise once I do that.

Hello, a lot of you may have already seen this but I designed a fold and weld bumper kit. There are still some little adjustments that need to be addressed and I won't be able to test it with a winch for quite some time. Anyway, I wanted to see if there was any interest in the kit being sold, the price would likely be near the $500 mark. Side Note: It has been quite some time since I have been on here. The new layout is much more user-friendly, so props to those of you that worked to make that happen.

Ahh okay. Do you know the minimum backspacing off hand?

Stock wheels will require spacers to clear tires larger than 31", due to clearance with the lower spring retainer on the struts.

Yes. I looked at the specs in the FSM and measured where I'm sitting now on 245/70/16s which is the OEM tire size. I guess after 200k the old springs have had it. When loaded it's really really low. Like ridiculously low.

It rained last night, off and on today, and we had thunderstorms this evening. I just went and checked and everything is bone dry! I left all four windows cracked to where they just barely were covered by the bottom of the visor. Success all around!

This is the thread for WD21s. I'm running 5W30 in my engine (Valvoline high-mileage synthetic blend, mostly because it was cheap), generic parts store dex/merc in the auto trans and the transfer case, and I still need to get around to changing the fluid in the diffs.

How did they hold up?

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So I haven't seen much in the light of swapping in a Toyota 4.0L V8 1UZFE VVTI into our R50s and so I went ahead and did a metric fskcton of research about both the VQ35DE VVTI and the 1UZFE VVTI, to get dimensions and measurements for both engines and their mounting positions. This made the process way easier after finding and buying said Toyota engine locally for $200us and so far it looks like the motor mounts for the engine as almost identical and in the damn near same locations with the distance of both engines keeping the same space from the back of the engines to the firewall the same. But obviously the only way the v8 would fit without issue is to delete the clutch fan and installing dual electric fans on the radiator (which I wanted to do anyway) which isn't a big deal anyway BUT the two radiators are pretty different which is fine because A I could either adapter some coolant hoses or B find a radiator that would work with the space of the pathfinder radiator space (I haven't done much in the way of measurements or research on this) or C have a custom built aluminum performance radiator (too expensive probably) which would be nice but ideally not what I'd want to do since my truck build is budget minded for the most part. Another nice thing is that XAT makes a bell housing adapter plate to run the SR/KA 5 speed transmissions but I have also found out the the older KA24E 5 speed 4x4 transmissions might work perfectly with their adapters but I don't know what the towing capability would be with those transmissions (since I do tow with this truck) as I can't find any info on that. So my first question is for you manual transmission off roaders out there is, how is it out on the trails with a manual trans, because mine is an auto and so far I love it for off road but this 4 speed trans isn't great for highway driving because it just drags down the fuel economy hence the idea/plan for the manual/engine swap.

Dang, sorry to hear that. I dont have schematics. What you see on the image you posted is close. Since you already have a set id suggest doing what Onespiritbrain said. Can you weld or have a friend that can? If so you can salvage your material and save money but cutting the flanges flange free and setting it up yourself. The orientation of the bottom flange does not matter as the top hat spins 360° but the angle of the tube and the orientation of the angle are the key. If your tube is anything other than straight up and down its wrong. The whole point of the SFD is to "translate" the suspension downward. Just like the subframe blocks are only providing vertical lift, the strut spacers need to do the same. So you need to cut the tube at the proper angle and orient that angle so that the tube ends up matching the subframe blocks.