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It’s true, sometimes my dreams look like this..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Alright, @RainGoat, this post is just for you, buddy! I was long overdue for some dimensions for you. I still need to put them together for the tailgate and mounting feet, but here you go...now get cracking! There are a few repetitive dimensions and concepts, at minimum from the visual learners like myself, but also to summarize the little aspects of the build. Material sizes are 1" sq. tube for the main framework, 1" x 1-1/2" tube for the back and bottom, and 1/2" sq. tube for the shelf supports. I think everything was 16ga (1/16") wall. Everything was kept to 1/4" increments and simple angles (45° and 22.5° cuts). If I had to do it again, I might use wooden panels for the shelves, like I did for the tailgate, instead of all the 1/2" tube...took too much time to cut pieces and weld together. But then again, it adds various tie-down points. Space conceptualization. There are about 4"-6" available above the tops, and about 3" more on the passenger side, but these values just represent the dimensions up to those of the rack. Top view by levels, and the diagonal dimension that allows it to clear the liftgate opening. Recall that the angles of the 2nd (green) and 3rd (cyan) level shelves are so that it can clear the D-pillars. The height of the rack is also the max allowable, assuming you use 1" mounting spacers like I did (details to follow).

I've owned my QX4 for 18 years or so and it has gone from our best, primary vehicle, to the daily driver, and on down the line to eventually sitting on the edge of the driveway being neglected for several years. It has been a long distance driver from Tennessee to North Carolina to Texas to Miami, Florida and lots of places in between. It's hauled children and all the things that go with them, hunting camp, camping, and off roading, and trash and building supplies. I've eaten in it. I've slept in it. In other words it's been heavily used. Over the years despite trying to keep it clean it collected lots of stains and such in the carpet. Now I'm giving it some TLC and it's time to clean the carpet and get that musty smell out. I may not know how to lift the suspension or do some heavy duty engine repair, but cleaning is right up my ally! Shampooing the carpet is a simple afternoon project with a few cans of carpet cleaner, a brush, some old towels, and lots of elbow grease. I've been doing this same approach for over 30 years and it is tried and true. You will need some foaming carpet cleaner and lots of it. I used three cans of Resolve High Traffic Carpet Foam, about $10. Start by vacuuming all the loose dirt and such from the carpet. It's hard to see in the photo, but overall this carpet is a little dingy and there are lots of little spots from various things. Then spray generous amounts of carpet foam over the area. Next I use a small brush and scrub the carpet aggressively. I use my hand and fingernails for small places the brush can't reach into. They suds and foam will disappear, but you're not done. After you've scrubbed it, use a clean towel and rub all over to get the dirty foam out of the carpet. You'll see it come up on the towel and know you're cleaning things. Finally step back and review the spot you've cleaned. If you see any spots you've missed, hit them again. I'm aggressive on the regular carpet, but the doors and other more delicate areas I only use my hand and rub. If there's a bad spot maybe scratch it. Don't forget under the seats Bad spots should work, but may require lots and lots and lots of repeated attempts. (This was a broken ink pen and it's been there for over 10 years.) This was the only spot I didn't get out, but it is better. I ran out of Resolve. I didn't take a lot of before photos, but if you look closely at the seat belts you can get an idea of how it looked under those seats. I've got to go back and clean the seat belts. I use the same techniques on the floor mats. I go back over it with the vacuum cleaner again after it dries. Everything looks and smells wonderful in the car now. I think I'll get me some good deep dish rubber mats now that it's all clean.

A friend of mine used something like this on the carpet in his van. It wasn't clean when he got it, and it was pretty awful after we tore apart the engine through the doghouse and laid out the parts on the floor. I was sure it was trash, but to my surprise he got it presentable again (presentable enough for a clapped-out van, anyway) with a spray product like what you used. IIRC it had some kind of bristle brush built into the nozzle. Sounds like what happens whenever I'm stuck cleaning something

I had a 510, good little radio for my use. The most important part is a good antenna. I had the firestik Firefly because it was flexible and I drove in a lot of areas with low branches.

Today I picked up 600 lbs of steel plate...enough to make the initial 6 bracket sets...and some skids plates. I'm still debating whether that means front or mid skids. For sure, I plan to make a mid skid to match my front skid. There might be some other revelations along the way. For now, still focusing on the remaining V2 tweaks. I'm still dividing my time across several projects to build up some confidence using the plasma table. I've not fired it up for a few days, but this week I will be cutting out the brackets and other items for my rear(!) bumper, which I (finally!) started last week. The truck has been without a rear bumper for months now, and the goal is to have it done before CANVAZ. Lots of work left to do!

They are still doing great. If one of them went out today, I'd look at the LED options. But if I didn't like those, I'd have no problem buying these Kensun HID bulbs again. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

You sir rock. After feeling around forever i found it. Had to remove the valve, to be able to access it and assuming i put it back together all right (valve sits in a really short vacuum line/adapter) I should be good i hope!

I have the Midland 75-822 and I like it. Perhaps the only things I'd change would be a longer coiled cord, and for the backlight to be longer or persistent (or at least have the backlight button light up so it's visible in the dark). I particularly like the portability, since you can still put a short antenna (included) on it and use it in another vehicle without a permanent antenna being installed. Would also work fine with a magnetic base antenna. It actually comes with two battery packs: one for disposable batteries, and another for rechargeable batteries (includes the AC recharger, too), but I've not really needed to use the handheld modes. I ran my antenna connector to the center console so that I could use the 12V socket in there. Everything stores in there, too. There's just enough gap between the center console and lid latch to run the cord out (kind of snugs into position), but the length of the cord prevents me from mounting the mic unit somewhere on the dash. It usually just sits around the cup holders, draped over my leg, or clipped onto the seat belt strap across my chest. Maybe I'll make a mount for it it someday. My center console is looking a bit filthy. Antenna is the FireStik FL3-B, and I bought the FireStik MK-204R mounting kit (cable and door jamb mount), but ended up using my upper tire carrier hinge instead of the door jamb mount. Note that the cable required soldering at the connector, but it allows you to snake a 1/4" wire, rather than try to squeeze a 3/4" connector through small gaps. I routed my wire through the taillight grommet, into the interior quartpanel space, along the passenger side, then under the passenger seat. Initially, I put a twist-style Hustler QD-2 quick disconnect, but eventually forgot to remove my antenna before entering a parking garage and snapped it right at the base. I was able to repair it, but also added a Wilson antenna spring. So now it'll flex and can be removed easily: I bought an Astatic PDC1 SWR meter for tuning. Tuning is kind of a pain...the system is very sensitive to changes, and it takes a few iterations to dial it in.

Thanks. Rack is 50 lbs, tailgate is 16 lbs. Add it to the list of things for @TowndawgR50, lol. If he hasn’t built you one by next spring or summer, maybe I’ll bring one up. I was telling him that I’d like to make a trip up that way. I’m also thinking I may make another rack, but one that’s simpler for everyday use. This is great for outdoor excursions, but day-to-day, I need something that has a larger flat surface, and maybe some cubbies to drop stuff into, like groceries and other small purchases, to keep them from sliding around. I also ordered a generic/Chinese 54qt 12v freezer/fridge from Amazon yesterday...$390. Same item that Smittybilt labels as their Artic Cooler for $700. I figure it’s worth a shot, though I find it funny the generic cooler has great reviews, but the Smittybilt version has lousy reviews. Guess we’ll find out why! I’ll get some pics of how it looks on the rack when it comes it. Doubt there will be enough useful clearance to grab anything from the cooler, but for sure* it’ll fit. (*fitment not guaranteed, lol)

Check out, Pathy_02 (That_Black_Pathfinder on IG) He really should have done a write-up. Great Project & I think the first to do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Another awesome and useful writeup. Definitely doing this!

Apologies, a couple complications. Not at all to do with locker other than talked about and resolved above. Been busy and to add to this project I'm fitting, 33's, had my steering rack rebuilt, winch (so making mount up) alternator service. Intercooler had to move, tried making a braket to hang sway bar on (to no luck). Drove it a couple times and had to take apart again as stupidly didn't replace axle oil seal while at it and it started to leak.

Issue with HAM is you need to be licensed. Not hard to get it but still. For me as a casual off-roader before it was not worth it. I'm in the process now as I'm starting to do more long distance and remote trips. I have had the same uniden pro520XL radio for the past 12 years and it still works great.

In emergencies a ham radio would be better. More distance and more likely to find someone to respond. When I went out I carried both, CB for group comms and ham for emergencies.

Back to shopping for the bar itself. I've been looking for the amber/white combo. Some have a remote control to change the color which doesn't seem like something you'd want. This one however is controlled by turning the switch on and off multiple times. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Curved-42Inch-3024W-OSRAM-LED-Work-Light-Bar-Amber-Flood-Spot-Flash-Truck-Fog-4X/302835017552?hash=item46825fa750:g:IxsAAOSwPxVbaXew I think I've about decided to go with this one. The choices are so numerous, but so many of them are probably from the same factory in China or wherever. I think the things I want are curved, amber/white combo, 42". Worst case scenario I'm out $53 bucks, right?

The offroad club I'm in uses them. They're cheap and easy, and lots of people have them. That being said, other forms of radio communication would be fantastic to transition to, but that's not going to happen overnight, so yes CB's are still relevant for offroading and will be for a long time. When I have mine on when driving around I very rarely hear anyone talk, I usually just turn it off since I never heard anything. I can put up pictures of my setup later.

+1 on that fuse box! I might have to snag one of those. I like the idea of the relays with fuses built in, but with no cover over the fuses, I'd worry about dust or water getting into the relays or screwing up the fuse contacts. I've bought relays with those same clip-together plugs on them (for my overkill trailer light converter) and ended up ditching them and just wired the relays with standard spades. Those plastic plugs took up as much space as the relays did, and seemed like more trouble than they were worth for what I was doing.

That Mictuning relay box is slick. Haven't seen it before. You'll still need to distribute power in one way or another before the box since there's not a common rail. But still, get some proper crimpers and wire, and that's clean setup.

Reviews look alright. I'd want to have a poke at it and make sure it's actually sealed right before mounting it, given the price point, but sometimes the cheap stuff is good. I got some really cheap round lights for a lawn tractor (and as bed lights for a pickup) and those have held up just fine. The translations on this stuff are always amusing. I get what they were going for with "Strong Penetration," but I'm more confused by the "subversive spot and flood optic system." Then there's the claim that they're "non-padiaton." I assume they meant "non-radiation," given the radioactivity symbol, but why spec that? I mean, they're gluten free, too, but... I bought something a while ago (forgot what) that came with some kind of warranty/review card. The back had a picture of a girl with her hands over her face, palms forward, with "help me" written across them and a five-star rating next to her head. I'm still not entirely sure what they were going for with that.

Late to this thread, but just wanted to compliment you on a thoughtful design. I just started outfitting my pathfinder with gear for camping trips, and have been thinking through the challenges of storage and safety when wanting to be prepared. Hoping the cargo rack has served you well!