Leaderboard

If it’s not the transmission, I’d guess the driver’s side motor is split. Symptoms read like my buddy’s...it was basically the motor lifting from torque, and when torque dropped enough from transmission shift, the engine was dropping back down on the mount. Most noticeable in the 1-2 shift.

Sounds like a hard shift to me. Any codes? The diagnostics for shift shock in the '03 manual suggest checking the accelerator pedal position sensor, line pressure, control valve assembly, various clutches and bands, and (if it's just from first to second that's harsh) the trans fluid temp sensor. I'd start by checking the pedal sensor because it's the one thing on the list that's not in the transmission. Looks like it's got two sensors inside. I would assume one is for the engine (drive by wire) and the other tells the trans computer how hard to shift and when, but it looks like both go through the ECU, so I could be wrong (maybe they're redundant in case one fails).

I recently completed installing Warn 29091 Premium Locking Hubs on my bone stock 2002 Pathfinder SE. I recieved a lot of good information from these boards when I was doing my research befere hand. It seemed appropriate to share the outcome with the boards since they were such a great resource for me. I hope this helps someone make the swap more easily! The procedure was much easier than i assumed it would be. Once the vehicle is off the ground and the rim is off it's clear to see what needs to be done. There are 6 nuts holding the stock, permanatly locked hub. Remove those nuts and get the stock hub off. Mine was a mess from a sloppy brake job done by a "professional" a few years back. Now tha the hub is off you need to replace the studs. The factory ones are not long enough...I tried to use them, believe me! Look at the length difference in the pic. Once the studs are changed install the 29091's according to the instructions. They pretty much slide on as 2 pieces: the housing is held on by nuts to the studs and the switch/cover is held in place with Hex Bolts. Take a few sconds to lock and unlock them, makes sure they "click" like they should when changing settings and that when unlocked the drive axel does not spin when you turn the rotor. With the locker installed and the rim back on, it looks like the pics below. The factory plastic Nissan-logo hub covers DO NOT fit over the Warn 29091's. I simply took a Dremel and cut the center out of the factory plastic covers to make a hole for the Warn switch to come through. It doesn't look much different from stock... I just finished this work the other day and have only made it throught a tank of gas with the new hubs in place. Running around town I got a almost 3 more MPG with the hubs turned off off. I'm about to take a 2200 mile trip, I'll update with the new milage after that. I hope this helps someone take the plunge...even if it IS from a newbie to the boards! Cheers!!

Sorry I haven't been around, life has been busy! for future reference, Yes 123456 is the firing order starting with #1 on the passenger head and alternating back and forth going back. You will need to tune the carb too, in factory set up it's way too rich. It's been 5 yearn now and it's still running good. Starts with just a bump of the key and always runs good! Also yes I made the spacer plate myself. I'd seen this style plate for 4 barrels but not for 2 barrels so I made my own, mostly to hold the throttle cable. James