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Oregonian

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Everything posted by Oregonian

  1. Good morning all! I'm looking for a site to get parts for the passenger compartment on my 2001 Pfinder. They all seem to use the same parts 'tree' which doesn't appear to have many interior parts. Any suggestions on a site that carries, for example, the removable glove box hinges or the hinge for the armrest/console deal betoween the front seats? Thanks! `Oregonian (Before those of you with that laser-attention-to-detail catch it...yes, I have a 2001. I sold the 2002 from the Locking Hub install and got an '01 with less miles that had never been in the midwest salt. Looks like it's time to install another set of Warn lockers...I can follow my own post!)
  2. Good morning! Anyone ever found the part number or a source for the "Hinge Pins" that the glove box pivots on; the ones at the bottom? I've lost one and cannot find a replacment anywhwere! 2001 Pathfinder SE 3.5 Thanks a ton!!
  3. Thanks for all of the responses! I'll have to look into the resonator removal, not a welder bone in my body. I have to agree on the supercharger this late in life on a 3.5 - That's one of those things to do AFTER researching the cost of a new long block!
  4. Thanks for the backup! The ones in the original post are hosted on my own personal site. I run design/build/run datacenters for a living and I've had that site forever, so they aren't going anywhere. I'm a pack rat when it comes to data. If there's anything (including just advice) that you all need in that arena I'd be glad to lend a hand! -Oregonian
  5. It looks like they have them specifically for later year Pathfinders (2005 - 2009 PATHFIND 4.0L) Stillen Superchargers for '05 - '09 Pathfinders Nice increase for those with the right years...But @ 5 grand... a bit rich for my blood!
  6. Thanks for clarifying for the new guy, morpheus. I have the floor shifter you described, glad to hear I have the tx10. WHEW! -Oregonian
  7. Thanks for the link beastpath. I'm not sure I'm ready to swap out cams quite yet. I'll hold onto the thought and try to work on intake/exhaust/timing/mixture/etc for now. That site has lot of hardward on it. I did have to laugh, though... $275 for a Nismo Cold air intake? PASS. -Oregonian
  8. Thanks SixGuns. I figured as much after a quick look around the net for parts. I've never been a big fan of underdrive pullys...seems like a lot of sacrificing cooling/charging for a fairly small gain. I'm sure letting it breathe with a K&N filter/plumbing and a bigger exhaust will be my first change. The 350Z part interchangability route sounds like fun. I wonder how many parts/mating surfaces/specs are shared between those motors! I used to run a 1970 Mustang on the street for fun...half my life was spent in interchangability charts trying to find better parts from nearby models with common mating surfaces. Back to the reasearch, I guess! Thanks for the idea! Cheers! -Oregonian
  9. fleurys, thanks for the comment. You seem to know a lot about these. Here'e where my "newbiness" will show... A few Q's if ya don't mind: Is it possible for a 2002 SE to have either the atx14a or tx10 from the factory? If so, how can I tell which I have? You refer to an "Auto Mode". I'm not sure I've seen such a thing on my Pathy....does that help determine which I may have? Thanks again, cheers! -Oregonian
  10. Here's how it came out mod'ing the stock rim/hub covers on my 2002: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25855 -Oregonian
  11. I posted a Warn locking hub procedure a few days back - check it out: Basically, by design, when the interior selector is in 2H, it just disengages the TC from the Trans...but the fact that the front rims are rolling means the the entire front drivetrain is always turing, 2x4 or 4x4 setting. Adding manual locking hubs and putting them in the unlocked position allows the front rims to turn free of the TC. This way, when in 2H with the hubs unlocked, the Transfer Case and CV's are idle. Saves mileage, wear on CV components, and the TC itself. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25855 -Oregonian
  12. As you see from my other post, my '02 Pfinder SE is bone stock except for the new lockers. Warranty is dead in 900 miles..so I can begin playing under the hood. YAY! Does anyone have suggestions for some good "bang for the buck" bolt-on mods for under the hood? Maybe... Larger Thottle bodies Air filter/intake plumbing changes Exhaust Changes (need to keep the Catalytic Convertor, boo.) Computer Mods (timing, mixture, etc) Injector Swaps Other suggestions? Thanks in advance for the responses! I'm loving these boards, you guys are great! -Oregonian
  13. I had to remove the clip when doing the rotor/pad job a few weeks ago, but just left it in place for this procedure...if I rememebr correctly. There's no reason to remove the clip as the entire job is done with the rotor/spline in place. -Oregonian
  14. I'm not sure I understand where you're going with this; when the hubs are unlocked the front tranfer case is idle when the vehicle is moving. An idle case does not need active lubrication. I could see locking the hubs for a couple hundred yards before engaging the 4x4 to pre-lube the case prior to adding a load...but premature failure? Not sure I agree... Thanks for all the great responses all! -Oregonian
  15. Getting the old studs out easily: It's the old two nuts trick! Thread two of the nuts from the old set onto a single stud, hold the inside one still with a wrench and tighten the heck out of the ouside one right into it. Now, when you turn the inside nut counterclockwise, instead of unthreading it will hit the other nut...sticking and unscrewing the stud instead. A little hard to explain but you get the picture. Cheers! Thanks for the responses all! -Oregonian
  16. I recently completed installing Warn 29091 Premium Locking Hubs on my bone stock 2002 Pathfinder SE. I recieved a lot of good information from these boards when I was doing my research befere hand. It seemed appropriate to share the outcome with the boards since they were such a great resource for me. I hope this helps someone make the swap more easily! The procedure was much easier than i assumed it would be. Once the vehicle is off the ground and the rim is off it's clear to see what needs to be done. There are 6 nuts holding the stock, permanatly locked hub. Remove those nuts and get the stock hub off. Mine was a mess from a sloppy brake job done by a "professional" a few years back. Now tha the hub is off you need to replace the studs. The factory ones are not long enough...I tried to use them, believe me! Look at the length difference in the pic. Once the studs are changed install the 29091's according to the instructions. They pretty much slide on as 2 pieces: the housing is held on by nuts to the studs and the switch/cover is held in place with Hex Bolts. Take a few sconds to lock and unlock them, makes sure they "click" like they should when changing settings and that when unlocked the drive axel does not spin when you turn the rotor. With the locker installed and the rim back on, it looks like the pics below. The factory plastic Nissan-logo hub covers DO NOT fit over the Warn 29091's. I simply took a Dremel and cut the center out of the factory plastic covers to make a hole for the Warn switch to come through. It doesn't look much different from stock... I just finished this work the other day and have only made it throught a tank of gas with the new hubs in place. Running around town I got a almost 3 more MPG with the hubs turned off off. I'm about to take a 2200 mile trip, I'll update with the new milage after that. I hope this helps someone take the plunge...even if it IS from a newbie to the boards! Cheers!!
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