laxman0324 Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 So after dealing with those retarded zip boots leaking a couple days later, ive established that im going to have to replace my cv boots the old fashioned way... im considering just putting off getting an intake to get the hubs instead since i will be removing the old hubs anyway...what do you guys think? Is there any difficult part of installing these or are they relatively straightforward to put on... Do i need any other parts or is it a simple take of the old put on the new? lastly does anyone know where i can get a set for a reasonable price? Ive heard of guys getting them for less then 200, and would love to do that. thanks, mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 It's a really easy job to do, the worst part I found is removing the friggin dust cap from the old ones. I hear Amazon.com is the cheapest place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 Is there any difficult part of installing these or are they relatively straightforward to put on... Do i need any other parts or is it a simple take of the old put on the new? Visit this link for a pictorial installation guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 Visit this link for a pictorial installation guide. thats a great guide, thanks my biggest concern is on amazon it says i need to "When Replacing Factory Automatic Hubs With Manual Hubs, You Must Also Purchase Spindle Nut Conversion Kit #29918 (Except For ADD)," but i didnt think i did... any suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 That's a generic warning for Ford or Dodge axles, I believe. Am I wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trogdor Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Installing the hubs is so easy, and I would do that before and intake for sure. The rolling resistance on mine was pretty noticeable with my gas millage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 Installing the hubs is so easy, and I would do that before and intake for sure. The rolling resistance on mine was pretty noticeable with my gas millage. you guys just about have me sold...im going to have to take everything off to get to the c/v axle though to replace it. Any suggestions on that whole process? Before the bashing begins i havent searched yet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trogdor Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Talk to nissandoms47 he has done so many cv's I have lost count. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWC5S2 Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 you guys just about have me sold...im going to have to take everything off to get to the c/v axle though to replace it. Any suggestions on that whole process? Before the bashing begins i havent searched yet... The hubs are very easy to do. If I can do it any one with an IQ above a house plant will have no trouble. I did not notice any significant MPG increase but that is most likely due to the bigger tires.....32x11.5x15. You do need to be watchful when putting the ring gear in. It will go in from either side but the wrong side will cause the axel to not engage fully. I made that mistake when I took them off to switch out the front diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 The hubs are very easy to do....You do need to be watchful when putting the ring gear in. It will go in from either side but the wrong side will cause the axel to not engage fully. Huh?!? Could you clarify? As far as I'm aware, hubs don't have a ring gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 Huh?!? Could you clarify? As far as I'm aware, hubs don't have a ring gear. i was just gonna figure out when i got there... by the way i have a couple questions about the function of these hubs...when i have it on off i have no 4wd capability...what happens if i shift the tcase into 4wd while the hubs are off? will this cause any damage? when i shift i turn the hubs on, tcase in 2wd is it like the hubs now with 2wd? Then when i shift into 4wd im really in 4wd? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeysentra Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 i was just gonna figure out when i got there... by the way i have a couple questions about the function of these hubs...when i have it on off i have no 4wd capability...what happens if i shift the tcase into 4wd while the hubs are off? will this cause any damage? when i shift i turn the hubs on, tcase in 2wd is it like the hubs now with 2wd? Then when i shift into 4wd im really in 4wd? When you shift the TCase into 4 wheel without the hubs engaged it Will not go and will make bad crunching noises. ONLY engage 4Wheel with the hubs engaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWC5S2 Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Huh?!? Could you clarify? As far as I'm aware, hubs don't have a ring gear. Guess I errored in the description. It is the circular piece that engages the hub gears when you twist it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keelhaul Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 When you shift the TCase into 4 wheel without the hubs engaged it Will not go and will make bad crunching noises. ONLY engage 4Wheel with the hubs engaged. If you shift into 4x4 with hubs disengaged while moving then you get the bad crunching sounds. If you shift to 4x4 while stopped there is no noise. I have used 2lo to limit speed over bumpy sections that did not require 4wheel drive. But be careful using 2lo there is a lot of power going to the rear tires which could break things in a hurry (not for smokeshows) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ardavis78 Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 It's cake to do!! So easy a caveman could do it! I just put my new hubs, wheels and tires on. Looks great!! Took me like an hour and a half. I'll try to get some pics soon. Maybe a lift soon. I dunno. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 If you shift into 4x4 with hubs disengaged while moving then you get the bad crunching sounds. If you shift to 4x4 while stopped there is no noise. I have used 2lo to limit speed over bumpy sections that did not require 4wheel drive. But be careful using 2lo there is a lot of power going to the rear tires which could break things in a hurry (not for smokeshows) so now your saying that when i use 2lo with the hubs disengaged and i try to have a little fun i will break parts? Thats no fun im not tryin to do burnouts or anything, but if i need to get out in a hurry and the wheels start chirpin i dont want things breaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 (edited) Dude! Lets see if we can sort this out... ------------->Hubs on truck from factory are "locked" hubs...they spin the front axles all the time 4wd on off whatever. When you pu;ll the lever now they are live and putting power to the ground ------------>Warn Hub (milemarker etc) installed and with the dial on the hub in 2wd mode = no front attachment to the wheels, the hubs are "unlocked" this means that the wheels turn but not the axles, saving wear on the fron cv's....pull the lever and the axles will try to lock up but cannot...grrrrind grrrind ------------>Warn hubs installed and spun to 4wd on the dial = locked hubs just like factory, now you can pu;l that lever when you need to and no problems + the hubs by warn are stronger than the ones from the factory...and easily maintainenced. Bottom line!-------------->I tend to leave my hubs locked when I know cruddy weather is coming, so I do not have to get out of the truck to spin the dial and lock the hubs. All Summer long, leave them unlocked and not wearing my cv's. The extra 1-2 MPG is always appreciated also! Just lean to drive better in bad conditions and the hubs will save $$$ on CV axles that should not get turned until you need them to put down power and save gas when they are not forced to spin. --------Helpful? Edited December 12, 2007 by 02silverpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 is the additional power the rear driveline experiences due to the loss of the parasitic cv axles really enough to overpower the rear driveline? i just dont want to be afraid to push my pathy if i need/want to. im not lookin for sports car performance but i would like to have a little fun when i want to... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitTheTrails Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 The additional power to the rear wheels that keelhaul was refering to is only if you have the warn hubs unlocked (2wd position) and shift your transfer case into 4Lo. You would probably never do this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 The additional power to the rear wheels that keelhaul was refering to is only if you have the warn hubs unlocked (2wd position) and shift your transfer case into 4Lo. You would probably never do this... i would never do that...now it makes sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 I did that a couple of times. Nothing is really harmed in doing that. It really helps when you wanna do donuts easier lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trogdor Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 And you wonder why you break so much stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 ok so i just straightened everything out with 4x4parts.com. I am replacing the entire cv axle assembly with both boots, and i got the Mile Marker manual locking hubs, not the Warns. I did some research online and Mile Marker stands by there product with a good warranty, so i figured id save some $$$ and give it a try. I will see if the installation is any different and try and take some pics and let you guys know. Thanks for all your input, im sure youll here from me when i go to do the installation with some problem i run into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trogdor Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 (edited) You won't regret getting hubs let us know how the mile markers work. Edited December 14, 2007 by trogdor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 I would still rather have hubs that wont break, and don't require a warranty...I shaved the entire face off one of my warns on a rock, and it still worked. I've seen so many MM hubs explode on difficult terrain it's not even worth getting them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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