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Everyone usually use KYB shocks and struts to replace their worn-out components and these are going for cheap on RockAuto here's a discount code 26541693695688324. You can also use the Bilstein 5100 Series https://amzn.to/3V3UdMN for the rear since you have a lift, but it will require some modifications to run these shocks on the rear of your R50. Chris.

2000 Nissan Pathfinder got blown ass suspension. Need new ones. Also need fromt axles… let me know. Located in SF Bay Area in Cali. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I need new shocks but have a 2” AC lift. Do I need different size/type of shocks? I was hoping to find some cheap used ones that are still decent but not sure what to look for. Thanks. -Logan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have never found a timing belt time interval from Nissan, but it looks like other manufacturers spec less than ten years (some as low as five). Probably best to swap that belt out before it realizes that 2004 was 20 years ago.

back! 3k rev limit means it's in limp mode. I've got an '89 service manual on Dropbox, EF&EC section is your friend. Start by running codes.

Mine is plumbed like this: transmission cooler supply line --> stock cooler in the radiator --> external cooler --> Magnefine filter --> transmission cooler return line. Probably would've made more sense to put the filter before the coolers. Some folks here used to recommend bypassing the stock cooler in the radiator. They were said to clog up. I haven't heard anything about that in a while, and suspect that dying transmissions were clogging coolers, not the other way around. My transmission was fairly new when I did mine, and I figured more coolers is more better, so I'm running both. I don't think I've heard of one of these having the Strawberry Milkshake Of Death issue that the R51 Pathfinders often did (failed cooler mixing ATF and coolant into an expensive mess). Here are three old threads about how to mount a cooler and which one to use. Unfortunately the pictures on the last one are long gone, but the discussion may still be of some use to you.

Sounds like it's in good hands! Hopefully it's an easy fix. And yeah, not like Redpath's crank! That's what I was afraid you were gonna find.

The reason I am asking is because the previous owner changed the timing belt in 2004 at 100,000 miles, but I am only at 165,000 miles currently twenty years later. According to manual the timing belt should be changed every 105,000, so according to that I still have 40,000 miles to go. Nothing is mentioned about age of the belt in the manual, however, and it has me wondering.

Hopefully they don't find any of this...

Can some one please provide some help on the correct choice concerning the trans cooler issue I keep reading about with these trucks. I'd like to get ahead of any problem and take care of it right away. What do need to do exactly? Thank you

I love it when a plan comes together! Glad it was something simple, and that you have the wherewithal to get the timing belt done now!

hey guys, been almost 4 Years since I've bothered to touch the forum but I bought another two door! has a 99 quest large snout VG in it and I'm having a TBI issue. won't rev past 3000 rpm, can anyone give me the run down on codes and diagnostic? much help appreciated!! -keeyinn89pathfinder

I may be a lucky sumbitch. The garage where I had it towed called later and said the bolt holding the harmonic balancer had backed off due to an incorrect washer being used previously. They are replacing the woodruff key and hardware and I'm having them do the timing belt water pump and front seals as well. Good opportunity to inspect the timing gear key. I lucked out that the garage is independent and has a 13 year Nissan master tech on staff who geeks out over our old trucks haha. Thanks, I sent this to the mechanic. I'm sure they'll be tired of me bugging them by the time it's all over haha. I'm not capable of the engine swap myself and having a shop do it would probably break my bank account, luckily it sounds like I won't have to make that tough decision yet!

Yeah, that's not good. Could be the key, though I'd be surprised if it just freewheeled with that busted. I've also heard of VG30 cranks breaking between the timing sprocket and the balancer. Hopefully it's not that. Grab the pulleys and see if the whole deal just comes off. I've heard of people welding and grinding a damaged keyway, or welding in the key, or using JB weld or Loctite and trusting the crank bolt's clamping force to do the rest. I don't remember if any of these methods worked, but I do remember seeing a few mentions of repeat failures. These may have been from people installing a new key in a wallered keyway without doing anything to stabilize it, though. And yeah, if the crank turns out to be buggered, might as well get an upgrade out of the job. The 3.3 crank snout is bigger. This is a good thing, but also a problem--it's why you need to run the donor's belts/accessories, or get an adapter to run the V belts, because the 3.0 balancer won't fit over it.

That sucks, and is the kinda "freak" occurrence that would make me wanna swap in the VG33 engine, but that comes with it's own cans of worms, too! (Go for it if you can easily get a replacement engine!) And you've probably already seen this thread?

Sorry, cross posting for more visibility: Currently sitting on the side of the highway with my 87 waiting for a tow truck. First the power steering cut out which prompted me to pull over. After I pulled over I noticed the temp was getting really hot. With the engine still running none of the accessory belts or pullies were spinning, I couldn't see if any were broken. Does this sound like the about key issue? Timing still seems ok but I haven't started the truck since pulling over. What are options for fixing if this turns out to be the issue? Upgrades available for a stronger snout key? Also wondering on the feasibility of a VG33 upgrade instead of rebuilding this guy. It's a bummer because this engine was otherwise in amazing shape and running beautifully, probably better than my newer cars. Still has the cylinder crosshatching.

Currently sitting on the side of the highway with my 87 waiting for a tow truck. First the power steering cut out which prompted me to pull over. After I pulled over I noticed the temp was getting really hot. With the engine still running none of the accessory belts or pullies were spinning, I couldn't see if any were broken. Does this sound like the about key issue? Timing still seems ok but I haven't started the truck since pulling over. What are options for fixing if this turns out to be the issue? Upgrades available for a stronger snout key? Also wondering on the feasibility of a VG33 upgrade instead of rebuilding this guy. It's a bummer because this engine was otherwise in amazing shape and running beautifully, probably better than my newer cars. Still has the cylinder crosshatching.

Some of the aftermarket u joint kits come with snap rings of different sizes/thickness. Otherwise I have filed them down to fit, not saying it's the right thing but it worked..

How's the progress?

Sudden loss of power has me thinking timing. Is yours the 3.3 or the 3.5? (Not sure when the 3.5 started down under.) The 3.3 has a rubber timing belt. IIRC they run like crap a tooth out, don't run two teeth out, and will eat the valves somewhere past that. The 3.3 is a little less interference than the 3.0, so you've got a decent chance of the valves being OK, but I would not push that luck by starting it again before confirming that the belt hasn't skipped a tooth at the crank. Roll the engine to TDC, pull the covers, count teeth between the dimples. 40 between cams, 43 cam to crank. If it's the 3.5, I've got nothing. My dad's Tundra jumped time a while ago because a mouse found its way in behind the timing cover. The engine got lucky, just needed a wipedown and a new belt. The mouse was not as lucky.

We have travelled from Adelaide to Brisbane to visit our son. We plan to return via South East coast. So far, the car drove perfectly. Driving around Brisbane was fine too. Yesterday (Saturday) went for a drive to see grandkids playing soccer. Returned home. While the engine was still hot, started the car as usual. Still in Park gear. Turned on the A/C. The car engine shook like a wet dog then stopped. Turned off the A/C. Restarted the car. Started Ok. Put gear in Drive. Very reluctant to go up the drive. Managed to get on to road but lost power. Parked by the side of the road. Checked engine oil, gearbox oil, coolant level all OK. Called RAA. Their Road Service guy arrived. He started the car. Turned it off. Said to me, "Your engine is very sick". Then he asked me to contact the nearby mechanic on Monday morning to make a booking, and call RAA back for a tow truck. HE did nothing else! No diagnostics using any code readers. Please help. What can I do in the meanwhile. I have purchased new platinum plugs last afternoon but it is raining at the moment (Sunday morning).

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Sounds like a question for the rebuilder.

Should be the same as '89, service manual here (Dropbox link). Don't remember where I found it or I'd link you there instead.