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ah slight miss understanding. I do leave the hoses connected to the throttle, what I meant is that the metal tubes under the intake, bolt to the intake which is why its so hard to remove those back 2 hoses. ill get a picture or video for you later tonight when I have time

well guess i need to front end swap my truck now lol https://imgur.com/a/PHAGX4v

I know this is a little late to the party, and MOST of these things are already broken. Instead of just cranking down on the bolts that thread into the plastic, I would turn them counterclockwise unit they clicked, and then tighten them so you're not trying to create new threads in the plastic. And ONLY tighten them snug!! Mine is basically held together by gravity at this point, except a couple of screws threaded into the plastic on the sides. The big ones in the middle are gone gone, except the 2 towards the steering wheel that actually thread into the steering column that provide all of the support at this point. I might could fabricate something with JB Weld if I had to, like I did with my center console, but it's OK for now

Interesting... How well does it perform in the cold BC weather? Better with the cold air, or does it take longer to warm up with no heat going to the intake? I might consider doing this permanently if the pro's are even slightly positive...

The VG33 engine swap, alltogether, is something worth looking into. My engine has 320K miles on it and I'm not entirely sure that it is original. I have my suspicions, like... it had all Nissan badged belts, hoses, and ignition wires, in good shape, when I got it. I'm not sure how much the additional HP and displacement would preform, but it'd probably be worth it, with injectors that are less unobtainium at the moment...

just cut them like I do and its easy. if you unbolt the hoses from the plenum and on reinstallation don't put them back, it allows you to remove the plenum by just unbolting the throttle and not having to drain coolant next time. allowed me to reseal my injectors in 45 minutes with no headache on a SC!

Thanks for the heads-up, not looking forward to it when that time comes.

(Oops, that was me, sorry, been meaning to update that post, with pictures, I'll get on it! But long story short, the VG33 injectors work, now I did also use the VG33 rail, so not 100% sure the VG33 injectors slide into the VG30 rail "injector bores", but I'm pretty sure the diameters are the same).

Well, not pretty, but she's holding!

Maybe the final update: Fuel filter didn't do anything. It probably needed it anyway. I think I put the new one in about 12 years ago along with everything else I just swapped out. I pulled, partially, the upper intake and swapped out the No. 4 injector with a NEW one. Took it on another test drive and it ran flawlessly. OTOH, it ran flawlessly until it didn't when I took it for the 20mi test drive... I'll probably be driving it all next week, so that should be a good final test. Will let inquiring minds know

Howdy folks. SO this morning I pulled the sump off, and the filter. I then went about pulling the valve body out, and in doing so - i was gifted two pieces of metal that i strongly suspected came from inside the transmission I did a bit of youtubing, and found a great video of a fellow rebuilding the RE4R01A transmission - it goes for about an hour and is very in depth. As soon as he held up the new band he was installing - i knew what the pieces i found were from. So - it appears as though the issue is that one of the anchor points on the brake band has failed. This aligns with my son saying in the weeks leading up to the current problem, the transmission was slipping a bit. SO - from here i think the plan is going to be: Transmission out Visual inspection for rattle damage. Replace brake band overhaul and clean valve body. Reassemble transmission Reinstall transmission. Unless anyone has another theory, i feel fairly confident that the broken band anchor is the silver bullet. The magnet in the bottom of the trans was quite clean - especially given the km's on the car, so i feel fairly confident that there isnt alot of other internal damage - but the visual inspection is required to confirm. Not a great outcome - but happy i believe we have found the answer. CHeers.

New Cap, Rotor and Plug wires installed. Took it for a test ride (Around 20 miles), and nearly the exact same thing happens. As I get closer to home (after around 15 miles), it starts misfiring. It didn't appear to be as bad this time around, and it seemed to clear up for moments at a time... Just before I parked it, it was running fine again... It seems as though I have used but good ignition parts to swap out in the future now I have a new fuel filter on hand, and I'll give that one last try before I pull the intake in order to swap out the one injector.... Yay, I was hoping it would be easy!!

sounds like maf issues or something sensor. if its not misfiring then its probably not ignition or fuel so its gonna be a sensor. if you have an obd scanner even a cheap one that does live data you should watch your maf voltage, fuel trims bank 1 and 2, and ignition. on the VG's they have 2 coolant temp sensors. 1 for the dash and one for the actual ECU. Check if that's the case and replace that sensor though that shouldnt limit RPM unless its shorted maybe. mirefire can mean sensor or engine issue, how ever if it sounds like it runs clean from idle - 2500 then its probably not hurt in a meaning full way. even if you jumped timing worst case scenario you'll get a code and would hear it. I doubt its hurt physically. you sound like me trying to diagnose why my SC falls flat for no reason and pulls timing (go fast problems)

Hi Folks, So we finally got around to doing a voltage test on the TCM while driving, and it's very obvious that the TCM is sending the signal to the transmission at the right time, but the transmission is just not changing when commanded. My son was driving while i held the multimeter hooked to the solenoid 1 wiring, and the voltage clearly dropped at around the time i would have expected the change to happen, but the change itself did not happen until my son lifted the throttle a touch. This leads me to believe that the issue is inside the transmission somewhere. Ether the valve body, or the solenoids. So - keeping in mind this is a high school student here with a part time job and basically living paycheck to paycheck, we are trying to form an educated conclusion around what we think the problem may be. We could take out the valve body from the transmission, clean it all out, make sure there are no blockages, and put it back together. Effectively eliminating the valve body as a suspect. If that doesn't fix the issue, then it really only leaves the solenoids. But if possible, we would rather not have to take the valve body out twice - so im looking for any guidance or affirmation on peoples thoughts as to how likely it is to be the solenoids. I know we can never be sure until the problem is fixed, but again - trying to balance cost and time. Appreciate any thoughts or guidance.

2003 Pathfinder LE 205,000 mi I take care of this vehicle. I do my own work. I got it with 189,000. I've driven this thing from Chicago to Virginia and back before. I had substantial amount of trust in it before a few months ago. I had a fuel pump that failed. No problem replaced it. It was good for about a week I was never driving it too hard though. It started going to failsafe mode intermittently. Wouldn't let me go above 2500 RPMs. The only codes I was getting were for evap. I've always had evap codes so I decided to replace every single vacuum hose including the lower the PCV hoses also the PCV valve all intake gaskets and spark plugs with the exception of the lower lower intake. After that I had no check engine lights. So I started troubleshooting , I reseated every single connector with dielectric grease in the engine bay. I do have the factory service manual. I've been using it I tested the throttle body actuator it was giving 22 ohms if you tapped on it it would go haywire up to back down. I bought a used one on eBay it tested at 11 ohms when I got it. I installed it. It worked fine for about a half hour before back in this Fail-Safe mode this time it was allowing me to go to 3,000 RPM. If I shut the car off and turn it back on it seems to reset and drive fine until it it goes back in a failsafe mode. I'm thinking electrical I just don't know where to go from here Battery and alternator is fairly new. I've also reseated the engine block grounds and any other grounds I could find in the engine bay as well as two grounds by the driver side kick panel, and repaired a ground strap underneath the vehicle from the exhaust heat shield to the transmission. None of this helped. But I've learned a lot

I was dealing with vibration issues for a while on highways, If I'd slow it down to 60 it would go away, come back ect. The drums in the rear were way off balance due to corrosion, chipping. Smooth sailing now.

The FSM that I've seen available for these goes as old as 94. I presume it could be the same??? I THINK, regarding the injectors, IF they're still working, don't touch em... which... I might should take my own advice on that topic since I have 4 brand new ones and they're apparently unobtanium... However, someone did have a thread some time ago where they were using the newer ones that fit a VG33 that work, you just need a different connector to the wire harness. I don't think I saw a resolution on how well it worked or not. I almost wonder if the injector that I swapped out earlier is experiencing something that gave me a false indication thinking it was bad, but the indications on this is a little different. It's almost like the injector is getting stuck and not opening fully sometimes. At a slight pedal, regardless of the RPM, it does not misfire. When it's misifiring, when I step into it (ie. to accelerate) it misfires. I assume a resistance check might identify that, but I have to pull the intake off, at least partially, to get to it. So, Heat dependent is not entirely true. One morning, it fired up perfectly. Within a minute, it was misfiring and wouldn't get out of it's own way. On a test drive, I took it around for about 20 miles. About when I was getting ready to say it's good, it slowly started to misfire and got worse as I got closer to home (This is what has me thinking the injector is going through a cycle of diminishing output, or possibly a faulty injector). I haven't really fired it up since.... I swapped out the No. 4 spark plug with a new one, with no change. Fuel pressure, Fuel filter??? I'd have to figure out the rig in order to check the fuel pressure and what's good or bad.... I kinda doubt this one since it's consistently one cylinder... I did lube the O-rings on the injector with silicone grease, but I doubt it would be enough to foul the screen on the injector... If I pull it, I guess I can see if that's fouled up. It's a head scratcher right now...

May have just posted that to nudge you into updating us on things I get it though, been so busy I have not had any time to work on the vehicles, missed out on on a whole season of wheeling this year.

If it's one of the ones no under the intake it's easy, but for the ones under the intake, one of those connectors on the tree on the valve cover leads to the rest of them. If you check the FSM it will say which. I'm scared of the injectors on mine, I forgot to keep the ones on my parts truck before junking it, and it seems like they vanished from every parts supplier overnight?

I'll probably tackle it this weekend after all of the parts show up. Where can you easily check the resistance of the injector? If nothing pans out with the Cap/Rotor/wires/spark plugs, I'll probably be swapping out that injector, along with the rest of the old ones for good measure. I have 4 brand new ones in the tool box. I bought them before they became unobtainium.... And yes, I'll probably be swapping out the CTS since it's super easy to replace. I might as well put in a new Knock sensor if I'm taking off the upper intake... I'm assuming that's possible with that removed....

Haven't seen that one, but did look into a few that were motorcycle-based like system-f suggested. Seemed like there were a few candidates there, but I didn't dig into it too deeply. And damn...it's been a year since that post. Truck hasn't seen much duty lately, though I did get back into a bumper re-design a few weeks ago. It's looking great on screen. Just need to flatten all the pieces for CAD/CAM and get it going.

Yeah if you don't know how old it is, just replace it, they're not expensive or hard to change. I know years ago the aftermarket ones (even bosch) would cause a slight surging on acceleration after it was warmed up. Irritated the heck out of me.

My O2 ran lean bias for a long time I switched them and it cleaned up my idle issues. the wd21 only has 1 so its probably a fair chance its on its way out

I did them on my D22 a couple months ago man the space for the coolant hoses at the back of the intake is even more of a bitch than the wd21.

Have you looked into something like this to recalibrate the speedo? https://www.yellr.com/ I know it worked on my old WD21 but yours is different.