All Activity

Any first gen Pathfinder, hard body, Xterra, or frontier wheels will fit. Supercharged Xterras came with 17" wheels. Probably not hard to find a set of those. The 2nd gen Xterra/frontier like slart said have a different bolt pattern and won't fit. Many aftermarket Chevy wheels will also fit. Be careful with Toyota wheels, you'll likely need different lug nuts for those.

Those look like a smaller lug pattern. Looks like the D40 Fronty went to 6 on 4.5" rather than 6 on 5.5". I would assume the D22 Fronty wheels would fit the lugs, but I don't know what they had as far as diameters and offsets and whatnot.

Good evening everyone! I am looking for a set of rims for my 97 Pathfinder SE. It has the stock 15 inch rims, however, there are not too many options for tires and I'm looking for a set from either frontiers or later model Pathfinders. I know for sure that the 17 inch rims from the 2004 Pathfinders will fit, but will 16 inch Frontier rims fit without any issues? Do these rims have the same bore size as the factory 15 inch rims I have? I do have manual locking hubs on my Pathfinder. Are there any other options that will fit my vehicle? I have seen some 4Runner rims on these trucks too. Here is a link to the picture of the rims I am currently looking at. https://imgur.com/a/0rT48Tm Thank you

I’ll add to that. Bee running rear disc on my 97 for almost a year and they’re absolutely amazing

Finally ordered the last of the engine parts today, time flies and I miss driving this thing more than I thought I would. I went camping over the Xmas break in my D22, it felt like such a betrayal after all these years!

It wouldn't be too hard to delete the sunroof, weld some sheet metal in and finish it off with short strand fiberglass/body filter, then paint. My friend did it on his R32 Golf track car.

That id a good idea, I need paint as well.

I've heard of the dampers causing bleeding issues. I don't think I've heard of one doing what yours is doing, but it does sound plausible. If nothing else jumps out at you, look for an M10x1 invert flare (not bubble) union. And yeah, I'd check under the dash first, if only because I hate bleeding hydraulic systems.

I haven't seen him around in a while, but Ekim Naelcm on the NPORA FB page did a TD swap. He would be the guy to track down with questions, or see if Farcebook lets you dig up his old posts about the swap. The gear ratio should be marked on the tag in the engine bay. US trucks are HG43 or HG46, for 4.3 or 4.6 ratio diffs. Hopefully the Terrano is marked similarly. If the '95 is auto, it's more than likely HG46. Manual trucks usually got HG43. If you plan to run stock-size tires, and the ratios are wrong, that'll throw off your speedo. But if you plan to run larger tires, then the deeper gears would be an upgrade. I have a service manual for the TD27, but sadly not the full manual for the rest of the truck, so I don't have a schematic for the glow plug wiring. However, the '87 Pathy/Hardbody manual that I do have shows an SD25 diesel engine, which has an automatic "quick-glow" system wired from what looks like the same ignition switch as the gasser. If you want I can take a few pictures of the relevant pages in the manual. That said, I suspect you'd be better off reverse-engineering it from the donor (or just swapping over the harness and everything attached to it!) than making assumptions based on service info for an earlier engine from a different family. Good luck, and let us know how it goes!

Awesome thanks for the info! I’ll see if I can find some metal around those dimensions to try and fabricate it up.

You can bypass it with a union, there was a post on it on here somewhere. The dampener is to assist with smooth shifts IIRC. First I would check the return spring on the pedal itself as well as bleeding the clutch fluid. I still have mine In place and have never had an issue. Just replaced a couple bad slave cylinders. If it were me I'd check everything else before hacking into it to bypass it.

Wohoo!!! The Site is back up!!!! The clutch pedal, over time, 10's of minutes, does not fully return. It's not leaking or losing fluid. I can put my foot behind the pedal and pull it back into place with no issues, but it returns back to the partially depressed position once it's depressed again. I have a new master cylinder and slave cylinder (Not yet installed). I have a suspicion that the Dampener is sticking, which I believe could cause this symptom. That part appears to be unobtanium. Can this be bypassed, if so, how does bypassing it affect operation? I've been having this issue with my clutch for some time now. If anything, it's a bit annoying, but doesn't affect drivability for short drives to work or in town. Not sure if it would be an issue for a longer drive. Don't really want to test that out and get stranded somewhere while it slowly resets... Miss you guys!! Have a great day!!!

Ive got a 1992 imported rhd Terrano with the td27t with 220,000km and new 5 speed manual with maybe 5000km, the body and frame is pretty rotten. I picked up a high mileage 95 pathfinder that spent most of its life in colorado. its mostly rust free but has 430,000km on the original vg30, id like to swap the TD27T motor and manual trans into my us spec 95 pathfinder. Is there any TD27T swapped pathfinders on here ? My concerns are around fitment with turbo and downpipe going from rhd to lhd, what would need replaced with the fuel system, i assume i could swap the ignition switch to accommodate the glow plugs or run a manual timed switch, would i need to swap the axles over to for gear ratio?

@hawairish I just wanted to say thank you for this info.... I remember paying $400 CAD PER SIDE for the parking brake bits on my old 1994 many years ago. And my current 1995 needs a refresh, with the board being down I couldn't remember what year Passport/Rodeo. Got the kit on order so I can finally put the brakes back together. Now if I could only find rust free or new dust shields for the rear. Hope everything is good with you

Forum has been restored and secured for now. Further safeguards will be put in place soon. In the coming weeks software updates will also take place. An exact timeline has not yet been determined, but some of this work may result in the forum being offline temporarily.

RR sliders use 2" square tube and 1.5" round tube, 3/16" thickness. Using the QX4 mounts has worked out well. My buddy took the same approach with a universal set of sliders and they turned out great.

No worries, thanks for checking back in. I do love the xterra, so will consider. Again I’m kind of just a sitting duck until the shop gets back to me. Hopefully the forums stay online this time too.

Try the corner up by the brake booster

I replied a few days ago but the site was down... If you are having transmission and engine issues, it will be better to invest the money in a different vehicle. 2006-2015 xterra are a great platform.

I got very lucky and got my hands on a Switchpro. My issue is trying to find a good place to mount it in the engine bay. Does anybody have better examples of how they were able to mount a relay box in the engine bay? Not too excited about this being so close to the battery. If anybody has another idea or that of a bracket location, please let me know.

I’m looking into doing this. I found some QX4 mounts at the junkyard in good shape. I will probably attempt to fabricate my own at some point. What are the outside dimensions of the square and round tube? I believe from them it’s 3/16” thickness. Looks like you’re a fellow Arizonan! I was lucky to find my pathy in good shape being an AZ car all its life. It’s been my first project car so lots to learn.

Update: I've scheduled an appointment with a local shop for a week and a half out, will share diagnostic results here when I have them..

The early 2000s knock sensors were notoriously bad on the Nissan trucks/SUVs. I've replaced probably 10 on the various Xterra/Frontiers that I and family/friends have owned. You might get lucky but it'll probably come back.

Didn’t think it would be so soon that I look back into driving the thing, but here we are. Check out my newest topic post for more

Sorry for the dead-end thread - this issue resolved itself on its own. I believe a loose connector has probably jostled itself back into place