All Activity

2003 Pathfinder LE 205,000 mi I take care of this vehicle. I do my own work. I got it with 189,000. I've driven this thing from Chicago to Virginia and back before. I had substantial amount of trust in it before a few months ago. I had a fuel pump that failed. No problem replaced it. It was good for about a week I was never driving it too hard though. It started going to failsafe mode intermittently. Wouldn't let me go above 2500 RPMs. The only codes I was getting were for evap. I've always had evap codes so I decided to replace every single vacuum hose including the lower the PCV hoses also the PCV valve all intake gaskets and spark plugs with the exception of the lower lower intake. After that I had no check engine lights. So I started troubleshooting , I reseated every single connector with dielectric grease in the engine bay. I do have the factory service manual. I've been using it I tested the throttle body actuator it was giving 22 ohms if you tapped on it it would go haywire up to back down. I bought a used one on eBay it tested at 11 ohms when I got it. I installed it. It worked fine for about a half hour before back in this Fail-Safe mode this time it was allowing me to go to 3,000 RPM. If I shut the car off and turn it back on it seems to reset and drive fine until it it goes back in a failsafe mode. I'm thinking electrical I just don't know where to go from here Battery and alternator is fairly new. I've also reseated the engine block grounds and any other grounds I could find in the engine bay as well as two grounds by the driver side kick panel, and repaired a ground strap underneath the vehicle from the exhaust heat shield to the transmission. None of this helped. But I've learned a lot

I was dealing with vibration issues for a while on highways, If I'd slow it down to 60 it would go away, come back ect. The drums in the rear were way off balance due to corrosion, chipping. Smooth sailing now.

The FSM that I've seen available for these goes as old as 94. I presume it could be the same??? I THINK, regarding the injectors, IF they're still working, don't touch em... which... I might should take my own advice on that topic since I have 4 brand new ones and they're apparently unobtanium... However, someone did have a thread some time ago where they were using the newer ones that fit a VG33 that work, you just need a different connector to the wire harness. I don't think I saw a resolution on how well it worked or not. I almost wonder if the injector that I swapped out earlier is experiencing something that gave me a false indication thinking it was bad, but the indications on this is a little different. It's almost like the injector is getting stuck and not opening fully sometimes. At a slight pedal, regardless of the RPM, it does not misfire. When it's misifiring, when I step into it (ie. to accelerate) it misfires. I assume a resistance check might identify that, but I have to pull the intake off, at least partially, to get to it. So, Heat dependent is not entirely true. One morning, it fired up perfectly. Within a minute, it was misfiring and wouldn't get out of it's own way. On a test drive, I took it around for about 20 miles. About when I was getting ready to say it's good, it slowly started to misfire and got worse as I got closer to home (This is what has me thinking the injector is going through a cycle of diminishing output, or possibly a faulty injector). I haven't really fired it up since.... I swapped out the No. 4 spark plug with a new one, with no change. Fuel pressure, Fuel filter??? I'd have to figure out the rig in order to check the fuel pressure and what's good or bad.... I kinda doubt this one since it's consistently one cylinder... I did lube the O-rings on the injector with silicone grease, but I doubt it would be enough to foul the screen on the injector... If I pull it, I guess I can see if that's fouled up. It's a head scratcher right now...

May have just posted that to nudge you into updating us on things I get it though, been so busy I have not had any time to work on the vehicles, missed out on on a whole season of wheeling this year.

If it's one of the ones no under the intake it's easy, but for the ones under the intake, one of those connectors on the tree on the valve cover leads to the rest of them. If you check the FSM it will say which. I'm scared of the injectors on mine, I forgot to keep the ones on my parts truck before junking it, and it seems like they vanished from every parts supplier overnight?

I'll probably tackle it this weekend after all of the parts show up. Where can you easily check the resistance of the injector? If nothing pans out with the Cap/Rotor/wires/spark plugs, I'll probably be swapping out that injector, along with the rest of the old ones for good measure. I have 4 brand new ones in the tool box. I bought them before they became unobtainium.... And yes, I'll probably be swapping out the CTS since it's super easy to replace. I might as well put in a new Knock sensor if I'm taking off the upper intake... I'm assuming that's possible with that removed....

Haven't seen that one, but did look into a few that were motorcycle-based like system-f suggested. Seemed like there were a few candidates there, but I didn't dig into it too deeply. And damn...it's been a year since that post. Truck hasn't seen much duty lately, though I did get back into a bumper re-design a few weeks ago. It's looking great on screen. Just need to flatten all the pieces for CAD/CAM and get it going.

Yeah if you don't know how old it is, just replace it, they're not expensive or hard to change. I know years ago the aftermarket ones (even bosch) would cause a slight surging on acceleration after it was warmed up. Irritated the heck out of me.

My O2 ran lean bias for a long time I switched them and it cleaned up my idle issues. the wd21 only has 1 so its probably a fair chance its on its way out

I did them on my D22 a couple months ago man the space for the coolant hoses at the back of the intake is even more of a bitch than the wd21.

Have you looked into something like this to recalibrate the speedo? https://www.yellr.com/ I know it worked on my old WD21 but yours is different.

If you want upgraded stainless flex hoses, 4x4parts.com has them. Otherwise rockauto or any auto parts store should be able to get OE rubber style.

Running well when cold but poor when hot is indicative of a sensor issue. When it goes for closed loop it acts up. On mine this was caused by the o2 sensor. But if she’s due for a tune up start there. I’d also toss a new CTS in there since it throws a code. It should not do that, ever. You can also check the resistance on the injector cold vs hot. Healthy ones are around 12 or 14 ohms. Can’t remember which.

Good luck! Mine was stumbling on two cylinders and after the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and coil I was amazed how much better it ran. So hopefully that’s your issue.

ANSWER: No they are not different, they function the same its seems to be just weird FSM labeling. they are physically different but work the same.

I was looking at the FSM trying to fix an intermittent issue with my SC swap. The part numbers for the MAF is different for 96-97 and 98-00. the FSM also is stating 1.3-1.7v idle and 1.7-2.1v 2000 RPM. the 98-00 is states 1.0-1.7 idle and 1.7-2.3v at 2500 RPM instead. Are they really that different? There is a physical size difference too but the plug is the same so maybe?

Hi all, Another update on this one. I’ve now spent quite a bit more time going through the factory workshop manual and testing things properly. The symptom is still exactly the same. From a standing start it will hold first gear under even fairly light throttle and just keep revving. The moment I ease off the throttle slightly, it shifts cleanly into second. The same basic behaviour then happens again on the 2-3 shift — it will hold the lower gear until I back off slightly, then it shifts normally. The actual shifts themselves are smooth. So far I’ve checked the following: TPS has been replaced with a known-good unit, and DataScan shows a smooth signal from roughly 0.5V closed to around 4.0V WOT. Transmission fluid has been changed. All five solenoids are within factory resistance spec: Line pressure: 3.4Ω TCC: 13.6Ω Shift A: 25.0Ω Shift B: 25.4Ω Overrun: 24.8Ω All five solenoids respond when 12V is applied directly. This was a bit of a challenge given I had to put my ear against the transmission sump to hear some of them: Red — line pressure solenoid: clicked, but not particularly loudly Blue — TCC solenoid: noticeable click Green — shift solenoid A: very quiet click Yellow — shift solenoid B: very quiet click Grey — overrun clutch solenoid: very quiet click Wiring from B64 back to the TCM measures around 0.2–0.3Ω on all five relevant circuits, so the external harness looks good between the B64 connector and the TCM. I’m not keen to start opening up or pulling out the transmission until I’ve exhausted everything I can reasonably check externally first. I’d really appreciate any guidance if anyone has seen similar behaviour or has anything else they think is worth checking before I go any deeper. Thanks.

I literally did this on my 92 MT last year. I don't know if I'm late to the party, but I wound up pulling my front axle in order to pull the oil pan and seal that up. It also made it significantly easier to replace the rear main unless you're not going to pull the assembly for the seal. I figured since I'm already into it, I might as well seal that up. It is 30 years old after all... I also had some missing and/or non-standard hardware that I replaced with OE appearing bolts vs the goofy ones found at the auto parts stores. To answer one of your questions on replacing the hardware; I would only do it to stuff that appears goobered up or where the threads are galled, and I would go to McMaster-Carr in order to try to find similar hardware to OE. They do carry JS spec hardware. That way you can eliminate the need for that oddball 9, 13, or 15mm bolt head/nut.

I've recently developed a bad misfire which appears to pop up as a heat dependent issue. When COLD, Cold, cold, it runs perfectly. After it's heated up (Usually), It misfires on the #4 cylinder consistently. There is spark. I have no real reason to believe it's due to a failed injector, in part because it's rebuilt one that I put in a couple of weeks ago. The ECU seems to think there is no problem with anything. When cold, the ECU flags the Knock Sensor, and Coolant Temperature Sensor (Not sure if that's normal, but they are 30 years old...). Once it's heated up, nothing, nada... Aside from the Cap, Rotor, and wires, is there something else that the computer doesn't pick up that could cause something like this? Would it be worth it to go in after the injector on #4 with a NEW one vs rebuilt? Tune up parts are on order, so I should be able to rule those out quickly.... I say they're all relatively new, but it has been a hot minute since I swapped them out.... like nearly 10 years I think...

Yours is just stuck together with maple syrup, eh?

I don't know what you all do. I've never broken one of these across owning 3 of these trucks lmao. Crazy americans.

Thanks, I will give it a try. Were is the best place to find them ? Jim

Guessing its been mentioned already, but check soft lines for signs of seeping and also expansion under pressure, or better yet, just replace them given the age. Although not on my Pathy, I've been in that battle where I was beating my head against the wall, until an old timer friend of mine suggested replacing them. And although my bank account argued extensively against it (I was young and very broke), I went ahead and bought replacements. And that seemingly trivial action solved my brake issues.

Good luck. Sometimes older cars fight us out of spite lol.

Thanks very much mate. This response was a great kick start for me. Much appreciated. I've got a copy of the manual, and have started diving in. I can see the B64 connector under the car, and will start by doing some resistance measurements on the solenoids. I agree that is seems odd that those three solenoids would "walk off the job" (I'll be using that saying again in the future" at the same time. Ive also confirmed through DataScan that the TPS is calibrated correctly - showing .5V when closed, and 4.0V at WOT - this is a known working TPS. Thanks again - and hopefully ill be able to report back soon with the fix.