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Bummer. I’ve also seen folk be able to get it off with a more general gear puller like one of these ( not sure the size) https://a.co/d/8e4idf6 harmonic is easier assuming the bolts work but this may get it in a bind

Just figured I would say hi to everyone. Looking forward to picking everyone's brain on this build I am about to start. 2001 Pathfinder 300k picked up for 700.00 bucks and a pack a smokes.

Wow!!!! Thank you for sharing! When I had ordered the Four Seasons, no paperwork was included, just a sticker talking about the oil. Thank you so very much for helping me out! This does make things easier for me!

I went ahead and ordered the Four Seasons 58440 compressor since adding A/C back onto my car was on the todo list. Sure enough it has the wrong connector. Looks like it's for an R50. It's a single wire and there is an insert explaining why it's a single wire. The old compressors (rotary vane style) were prone to overheating and were 2 wire with the internal temperature switch on the second wire/connector and the newer compressors (piston swash style) don't require this. Also included is a package of butt splice connectors with writing on the package indicating to use these to splice into the OEM wiring since the connectors may not match. So, there you go! It should work fine. I probably won't get to this for a couple more months but I plan to just go ahead and 'upgrade' my OEM compressor wiring by using a pigtail I'll cut off an R50 the next time I'm at the junk yard. I no longer have the original compressor; otherwise I'd just swap the connector over on the compressor side.

The rear springs will be medium duty (2922). They don't do heavy duty for the rear. Since its lighter in the back the medium springs alone will give you close to a 2" lift. The front springs will be slightly less of a lift (even with heavy duty), which is why some use the "leveling kit" spacers. I've seen people do OME up front with rear land rover springs if they do a lot of heavy towing or weigh the rear down quite a bit. I have the OME setup (without spacers) front and back (HD front 2928 and MD rear 2922) and only have a slight rake when the vehicle is completely unloaded. if I load up the back or throw my bikes on a hitch bike rack, then the truck looks level.

I decided to check the diodes with another meter, since my diode test on my meter seemed questionable. First, I should note that for all the readings I reported above, the forward- and reverse-bias notations should be reversed. The voltages listed were correct, at least according to that meter. With the 2nd meter, I got the following readings: Diode 1 (just in front of connector)- Forward-bias 0.575v Reverse bias 2.98v Diode 2 (beside connector)- Forward-bias 0.575v Reverse bias 1.4v Diode 3 (farthest from the connector)- Forward-bias 0.5v Reverse bias 0.58v Diode 4 (just behind diode #3, next to chip-looking thing)- Forward-bias 0.28v Reverse bias 0.28v I'm thinking to test these properly, I probably need to desolder/disconnect the cathode end of the diode? Diodes 1,2, and 3 appear to be the same, and have a 6.L marked on them, while diode #4 has a 6.8 marked on it

All OME struts are discontinued and unavailable worldwide. The listing is outdated. 31” tires are the largest that will fit on factory wheels without rubbing strut perch. All warn hubs for r50 are also discontinued. If you can find them for a good price you should buy them. With that said, the generic hubs on Amazon are just as good as warn hubs.

It sounds like it’s trying but never turns over. Also can’t hear new pump run. Before the pump went out I could smell gas and seemed like I got horrible gas mileage. Also car ran out of gas last time it was running. Any ideas?

I do have a diode mode on my VM, so I took a look. If I'm right, there are 4 diodes on the board, 2 oriented at right angles to each other toward the front of the board, and 2 oriented at right angles to each other toward the connector side of the board. I'm not sure that the diode test is valid with them still being soldered on the board- only on one of these diodes (the one just in front of the connector) did I get the expected 0.7V in what I think was forward-biased condition. When I reverse-biased, I got 0.5V. For the diode beside the connector, I also got 0.5V when reverse-biased, but 2.0V when forward-biased. For the front-most diode toward the front of the board (the only one laying horizontal), I got 0.2V in both forward- and reverse-biased states, while I got 0.1V in both states for the other. I note that when in diode mode on my VM (Fluke 79), and the leads are totally open, the VM reads 2.4V. That doesn't seem normal

First time posting here. As the title implies, I have a stock ‘03 pathfinder and I’m looking to give it a slight lift and bigger tires. I’m thinking of getting the Rocky-Road OME ‘96-‘04 heavy duty lift kit with struts (One question about this kit, are the rear springs heavy duty as well? Doesn’t specify in the description). https://rocky-road.com/shop/nissan-pathfinder-lift-kit-1996-2004/ What size tires would fit with this kit that wouldn’t rub? I was leaning toward Goodyear Wrangler Ultraterrain 265/70 R16 https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/goodyear-wrangler-ultraterrain-at/p/44194#treadwell-data Im also looking at picking up Warn manual hubs https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-manual-hubs-by-warn-1996-04-28-spline6-cyl-p-60143.html Thinking of making my own missing link with square steel tubing and of course, a NPORA sticker https://www.pathmakerproductions.com/shop/npora-club-r50f-decal/ am I missing anything? Any help would be appreciated.

Still in the box[emoji2357]

Finally got some time to go check out the condition of the trails. Hoping for a fun summer!

That's why a replacement like a a/c condenser or starter is really nice lmao

I want to test the spare amp vs the one that's in mine to make sure it's good before I box it up. But, yeah, it's not doing me any good gathering dust on the bench. PM me and we'll sort it out. Might be worth checking the diodes on yours, if your meter has a test mode for that. They can fail open or closed (or fail closed and then burn open), and I imagine either condition would play hell on whatever logic circuit they were part of.

I had a look on nissanpartsdeal. 55130-4W000 is listed for '00-'04, 4WD/AWD. 55130-2W100 is listed for '98-'04, 2WD and P/4WD (which I assume means part-time 4WD, not the AWD/all-mode). I suspect someone screwed up the data entry, and the 2Wxxx part number is for 2WD, and the 4Wxxx part number is for 4x, because why the hell would the panhard bar care which transfer case you have? Then again, why would it care if if it's got a transfer case at all, unless they did some weight savings on the 2WD variant, assuming it wouldn't be beat on as hard. I found one other part number, 55130-0W000, for the VG33 trucks and some VQs. The site says it's incompatible with yours, assuming you've got the AWD/all-mode transfer. Pictures of the three variants show different whatsits along the bar (which I assume are vibration dampers). I don't know that this is the only difference between them, but I also don't know that it isn't. Listed weights and dimensions vary a little, but there's no indication of what exactly they were measuring, so I'm not sure how far to trust those numbers. Could be one guy measured between centers, another measured overall, and the third measured the box the part came in. Could be they're all slightly different lengths and widths, just to be that way, but then they'd also have three different axle housings and/or three different panhard brackets, and I have no idea what slight changes to the dimensions of the panhard would've accomplished anyway. That said, Nissan does do stupid things sometimes. I'd be hesitant to put $200+ on my hunch that it's all the same part but with different unimportant dangly bits tacked on. +1 for checking the wreckers. Even if you don't find the right one, the wrong one from a wrecker should be a much cheaper experiment than the wrong one brand new from Nissan.

It's amazing how much room a parts car takes up once it's taken apart.

Well in this case the only other thing I could recommend if your local junkyard allows it is to bring your old panhard bar to the junkyard with you and try to match it up or test fit it on one of those R50s that's there. My R50 has been a bit of a work in progress, it's come a long way and it's also been built and maintained with junkyard parts lol Chris.

Lol

bar exam

I did some more inspection and poking around on my board tonight, but failed to uncover anything. I think I'll have better success putting my effort into finding another amp unit, unless you want to part with yours? From your post above, I do believe that I should be ok with Pathfinder models from '87-'95.

Looks good. Any more updates? I'm getting ready to possibly do this on my xterra but will mean I lose it for this wheeling season.

breaker bar

Lol. I've had a few parts trucks! Guess I kept some things. I'll go out to the X now.

Thanks..yes that has been part of the search. The bars themselves don't have part numbers on them that I can see. Your Pathy looks amazing