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You are very welcome, I'm always happy to help, and thank you again for all of your views and support. I'm also pleased to hear that you have found my YouTube videos helpful. Chris.

Mmm. Hard to tell from the pics but most likely you have the trigger + wire on one connector and the ground - on the other (grounding the compressor elsewhere) - confirm in the FSM. In order to save money and increase compatibility across different makes/models, aftermarket suppliers will sometimes just ground it to the case (and on through the engine block). In this way the compressor will work on both single plug and dual plug models - at least in theory. It will probably work fine if you just connect the connector with the + trigger and leave the other disconnected. Alternatively (what I would do) is cut off the ground connector from the old compressor and butt splice it onto ground wire on the new compressor.

Thanks for the feedback! I will go ahead and order that combustion leak test and go from there. I have watched a good chunk of your youtube videos and have found them extremely helpful when performing maintenance or modifying my R50.

Sorry to hear about the recent issues you have been having with your R50, you can complete a head gasket combustion leak test. Here's a link to were you can get said leak test kit. https://amzn.to/3Rf56Jc It is straight forward and very easy to complete this test with the use of this test kit. I sincerely hope it's not a blown head gasket. Oh you can also try bleeding air from your cooling system via the bleed port on the backside of your engine, it will be covered by a rubber cap. Just make sure you are doing this when the engine is cold and with it off Good luck. Chris.

Just in case re-uploading doesn’t work! https://imgur.com/a/2dAgkpe?

Welcome! can't wait to see more of your rig in the future. The picture you sent isn't loading, try using imgur and importing it that way. Usually has better luck that method

Hello everyone! I picked up my 99.5 Pathy a month ago as I’ve been looking for decent off-road rig and can’t afford the Toyota Tax out here in CO. She had 121k on her and was completely stock but otherwise in great shape! In the past few weeks I’ve done a bit of paint work(flares and bumpers) and put on a set of Allied Daytona 30x9.50R15s and wrapped them in some Cooper Open Range A/Ts. I daily it mainly but plan on building her up for trails/overlanding. I am insanely inspired by all of the builds I have looked at on here. So much so that I’ve made an account and this post! Hope to see you all around!

I recently took my 2004 Pathfinder LE with 188K miles on a 3800 mile road trip with a couple of buddies. After the first few days the pathy started run hotter than normal and we noticed the engine was losing a significant amount of oil and coolant had been spraying out of the plastic cap of the overflow tank. We were in a pinch being so far away from home so we limited our driving significantly and made sure to top off oil and coolant everyday. After further inspection I also noticed oil sitting on the surface of my overflow tank. My first thought was the headgasket leaking oil into the cooling system causing it to overpressurize and spray out. However, the car was running completely fine as long as fluids were closely monitored and I don't have any indication of "milkshake" in my oil cap. There is also no white smoke coming from my exhaust. After more research the oil cooler looked like a possible suspect. I do have a slight oil leak there visible from the underside of the car, so I opted for a bottle of blue devil oil stop leak. In the following day this greatly decreased my oil consumption and seemed to keep more oil from getting into my coolant system, but I was still rapidly losing coolant. I did make it back home without any overheating but I wanted to get outside opinions since I have never experienced this before. Is it possible my head gasket is still leaking exhaust fumes into my coolant and causing excess pressure? Are there any tests I could do that anyone recommends? Thanks.

I think it was like a U1011 code or something like that, but thats the only code ever see. 4WD hasnt worked in a couple of years is there a common cause?

I measured 33.5" on one front corner and 34" other 3 corners from ground to fender edge for reference. Has 265/65/17s on it (30.5" tall) seems like thats higher than OEM?

thanks for the info, didnt know they where different but that makes sense. Ill be sure to check ill be sure to come back to this thread and attach a picture if i get around to ever fixing it lol

Nicoclub has the '06 manual. Hopefully it's there somewhere. Might find something similar in one of the suspension sections. The GI section has the overall height, if that helps. The bouncing sounds like your struts are shot. Fresh ones should deal with that. Might help with the squatting if the old springs are sagged. I don't know the R51 well enough to know what's out there for stiffer springs or suspension lifts.

I think the four-cylinder trucks got the C200 rear end, which does use a crush sleeve. There's a data plate near the wiper motor that should have the gear ratio (HG43 or HG46) if you'd rather track down a used rear end than rebuild yours. If these were available with the V6 in your market, you may be able to track down the H233B rear end, which does not use a crush sleeve. LSD is marked by an orange sticker that says "use LSD oil only," but you should be able to tell by trying to spin a rear wheel by hand with the rear end jacked up. If it spins the other wheel the other way pretty easily, it's an open diff. I haven't found a full service manual for the diesel trucks, but this manual covers the engine. The '90 US-market service manual from cardiagn.com or the '94/'95 from Nicoclub should get you close enough on the rest of the truck. The PD section covers the rear end. Fog lights are a pretty common option, at least over here. Different bumper inserts, relay near the wiper motor, rocker switch on the console, little added wiring. That harness was bundled with the alarm system on mine, suggesting it was installed at the same time, probably by the dealer. Neither system is in the service manual. The only black and red switch I remember seeing on one of these was a Russian (?) market hazard light switch. If your mystery switch isn't the same style as the rest of the dash switches, I would assume the PO added something. Follow the wires. And yeah, gotta host pictures elsewhere and link them in, unfortunately.

I haven't tried swapping calipers, but I do have some WD21 front brake parts laying around. Let me know if you need measurements.

The switch, yeah. Square-dash has a rocker switch on the dash, round-dash moved it to the end of the wiper stalk. The wiring to the amp looks mostly the same, but it's hard to say for certain given the different switch and the stuff they added to make that work. That's a good idea. I'll have a poke at mine later and see if passes one or both tests. Might also be a good sanity test for if we've got the test procedure right.

Haven't seen Pete around in a while. This should have what you're after.

Spent an hour or so reading a thread where guys were using Land Rover springs only to realize it was for the 96-04 generation trucks and not what I have.... 210k miles, get alot of bounce/unsettled feeling and looking for shock/spring recommendations etc. Not looking to raise ride height much if any at all, but may occasionally move my trailer around shop or move car around on trailer 5 miles and I remember this thing squatted HARD with just having few people in the back. Is there some cheap/easy option like those guys were using with Land Rover springs? (I think their stock stuff has 2" spacers, they were taking out the spacers and using the LR stuff that was a couple inches taller free length) Rockauto has Monroe or Gabriel complete front strut/spring assemblies I was thinking about getting and not have to worry about bolts breaking/etc any experience with them?? $65 or $85 each side is hard to beat. KYB assemblies were $149 but doubt its any better as $75 of that is the springs alone Anyone know of equivalent specs for these chassis(this is from 96-04 truck)? Id like to see where mine measures vs OEM spec

I somehow missed that one important fact

you're going to have to look for a different lift option than this section. this is for 96-2004 Pathfinders, not 06 unfortunatly

Looking to fix up bouncy suspension on my 2006 with 210k miles, some light duty towing very short distances i may do and i see these things sag a bunch with a load on them. What is best answer for shocks, possibly rear springs, rear airbag inserts etc? I see the NRC9447 landrover springs getting used, what about anyone using the variable rate NRC8045 number listed in the spring listing early in this thread? I dont really want to raise the back of the truck any, more often than not im loading stuff in/out of the back and those show to be .3" inch shorter than the 9447s free length. They are a variable rate spring supposedly 155-215#s so Id think they would prob end up being 1" or so lower ride than the 9447 normally, but get into the higher spring rate when loaded up a good bit? Rockauto has Monroe or Gabriel complete front strut/spring assemblies I was thinking about getting for the front and not have to worry about bolts breaking/etc any experience with them??/

I wouldn't say I'm a great free-form troubleshooter. Give me a schematic and I can maybe figure a few things out, but I'm not sure if the traces on the board are even visible for me to follow. I'll take a closer look when I get a chance. I could try ohming it out, but that might not be that easy since I can't isolate the components easily, not to mention very tedious. I feel like I'm just close enough now to solving the problem that I hate to quit, but far enough away still to question if it's worth the effort. I might also try investigating some more junkyards, to see if I get lucky. I am concerned that if there are a bunch of different (and relevant) variations of this amp according to model year, it could prove to be a very difficult search, as I'd basically be restricted to '87-'88 pathfinders vs. '87-'94 I was initially a little confused by this, but when you're talking about going from a nine-pin to a four-pin switch, I think you mean the switch on the dash, right? And the pins on the amp connector (and the wires are the same? If so, do you think performing the fucntionality check in the service manual on your module using pins 2 and 4 would suffice as a compatability check?

Sorry for reviving an old thread, do you still have that PDF for the TD27 EGR?

The Nissan FSMs are the best technical resources on our trucks, and are freely available at NICO. Ring gear is probably toast and toothless if the driveshaft spins and nothing else.

Seems to be shifting just as well as it did before so that's a good sign haha I'll definitely follow your advice and add a external trans cooler though.

Hello guys, i am new to the group and I need some help with my WD21 1990 2.7TD 4x4. e 1. My rear differential pinion seal is leaking resulting in mudbath in my rear diff, I want to change it but i am not sure what kind of a differential i have on, previous owner said It has LSD but i do not see a sticker on the diff, but i guess it could be torn off over time since this car swa a LOT of offroad action. Anyway, If somebody can help me identify the whole thing. On the back side it has stamped 2CVB, on the front are si stamped ND0673 and 180, the engine is 2.7TD 1990. I am asking because in the manual (altough for petrol engines) it states that this seal should not be changed while the diff is on the car because of the collapsible spacer. Can somebody give me some info and if i can do it while it is on the car? Saadly i cannot share photos because they are bigger then 150kb. The diff itself doesn't have a access plate behing it so it can be open just by removing the diff from the axle housing from the front side. 2. I would like to find a full manual for 2.TD, i have one for petrol engines and a partial one for TD version or just the electrical diagrams would be very helpful :). 3. I am looking to modify the engine, open up the injection pump, 3inch exhaust, water intercooler and a better turbo. Can somebody suggest me what turbo would be the best, i don't want a too big turbo because it takes long to turn it over just something for better performance. I noticed there is also a smal tube going to the metal tube (the one with turbo sign on it) on the top of the engine where intercooler would be, what does it do? 4. I would also like to ask what are the red and black button for on the dash next to the window heater switch. My car also doesn't have foglights is it just the switch missing or were some models just without one?. I kindly thank to everybody for help. Iam also doing some great mods in the future that I wanna show :). Kind regards Samo from Slovenia