Mauitrailguy Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Dont know if this should go in How to's or not but Injust wanted let everyone know I have installed my BL, suspension lift and put it all on 33x10.5 BFG KM2's with rock crawler steel wheels. This is a heads up to anyone who buys the Calmini kit. Some of the parts do not fit as they are supposed to and the instructions are not very detailed. Same as the AC BL from 4x4parts.com I had to make modifications to the rear track basr bracket to accept the new one. The BL kit was supposed to come with all the hoses and it came with the wrong sizes. Other than those issues they ae simple to install. It has been about a month since i installed this and i havent got around to posting. If you have questions about how I made this work please let me know and I will gladly answer them. Here are some pics. Please post your questions... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANDY Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) Legit in my book Edited January 13, 2011 by ANDY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WyKi Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 That 2dr looks sexy as!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Someone complaining about Calmini? Never! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 the instructions should have mentioned this but in case they didn't always recheck all your bolts and nuts after 500 miles, lug nuts also, truck looks great ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 So that's what mine would look like lifted with 33s. I like!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Don't mean to jack the thread, but your picture is a good comparison that I want to ask about, I know the hardbody cabs sit higher on the frame than the pathfinder does, and you said you just installed a body lift (3"?) and a suspension with 33's, so I'm posting a old pic of my 87 hardbody with a 3" body lift and a-arm suspension with 33/12.50's on 15 x 8" wheels as a comparison. I do realize the amount of suspension lift you get depends on how much you crank the torsion bars and in my pic my A arms are slightly angled downward but still had plenty of clearance between the A arm and the bump stops. Does my 87 look like it has more clearance between the front tire and the fender than the pathfinder?? It def. looks like more of the frame is visible on my hardbody. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANDY Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I have a question is it a manual? cause i was looking at a BL and it said it wont work with a auto, and i have a auto and your rig is inspiration for mine now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I don't see why the body lift would not work with an automatic, the Nissan trucks use a cable for the auto shifters so there is no linkage or anything to modify, and with a manual trans the shifter just gets lower, so I don't see a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 A body lift won't affect an automatic transmission. It makes no difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 *has an automatic with a 3" body lift* I have not had any issues other than my rusty frame is more visible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Rear looks saggy...or front is over cranked. Did you upgrade the steering also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Front isn't over cranked...it sits level. I do not have the steering package yet but is definitely the next upgrade. I think the reason the hardbody looks like it has more wheel clearance is that i still have my mud flaps on. I have since taken them off since they were stopping my rear tires from flexing up into the well and tucking up nicely...like they do now. Also it is a 5 speed manual....just a little FYI for you guys with rust issues....this was my solution. Go get a case of 88cent cans of spray paint and a wire wheel attachment for your drill. Clean the frame as best you can and do two coats of paint. I did this and it looks awesome and is helping to keep my frame in good shape. Also my tires are only 33x10.5. This as I have recently found out is to much for the free running automatic hubs. I will be getting either WARN or MILE MARKER manual locking hub. Any other questions I am willing to answer......Thank you all for the compliment. P.S I have checked all hardware after the install.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Andy I don't know if it would work for an auto. The shift cable might change in tension giving you some trouble(I emphasize might)...Not sure though. Here are some more pics of some flex so you guys have an idea of limits that can be reached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 No issues with a BL on a auto, actually easier than a manual. As for your humorous rust advise, it works for surfase rust, but if you don't put something on before painting, it will come right back. Also, when our frames go, it isn't surface rust and it is usually from the inside out. You are lucky to have an older model, they had better steel in the frames than newer ones. My 88 still has a solid original frame even after years of it being in Cleveland (tons of salt on the road in winter), my 93 is swiss cheese that has been patched in multiple places, but it was here in Columbus (stil salted, but a lot less). Most people who have rust issues are far beyond any wire wheel help. BTW, what part of Nor Cal? I spent a few years in the Eureka area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 NICE , I ran 33's and 35's on the red Hardbody with the auto hubs and never had any problems, I swapped the autos on my 94 PF just for the reason I found a set in the JY and I always liked the when they're locked they're locked part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Instead of going with Warn or Mile Marker hubs, get some factory Hardbody manual locking hubs. Stronger than the Warns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Kingman...Glad you saw the sarcasm in my rust comment... I am very lucky to have a vehicle that spent all its life in places they don't use salt(washington) and now in Nor Cal...For now I am in Fort Bragg...I've been to Eureka a couple times to go salmon fishing because there are no fish in this area.... An yeah I definitely need to get different hubs I have heard the Auto hubs on the Pathy's are notorious for issues. This was the first time I had an issue. Anyone know where to get a good deal on a winch bumper for my rig???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Here is what i think is a hub slipping...what do you guys think?? It is the right front tire and you have to have your volume up. Thanks for checking it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I've never heard of a hub slipping. I've seen and heard them grenade before... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Did you watch the video...what do you think it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I can't watch videos. I exceeded my data bandwidth for the month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyinwall Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 it sounded like a hub slipping in and out as mine does the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Here is what i think is a hub slipping...what do you guys think?? It is the right front tire and you have to have your volume up. Thanks for checking it out You changed directions, auto hubs unlock and relock when you change direction, only thing I heard was them doing that. At least you weren't really on the gas when it locked back in, that can be scary loud and sometimes cause the instant grenade. You should be able to find some Nissan manual hubs pretty easily, they were stock on a lot of Hardbodys. Check the classifieds here or the local j-yards. The Nissan manuals are the most bullet proof. ...For now I am in Fort Bragg...I've been to Eureka a couple times to go salmon fishing because there are no fish in this area.... The Mad river up by Arcata has some good Salmon and Steelhead fishing, same with Big Lagoon further north. A few of my high school friends go to Fort Bragg to go Abalone hunting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Just watched the video. It sounds like the typical lock/unlock scenario with the auto hubs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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