blackspawn Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 (screw their "Junker Trade In" - they will have to take it from my Cold, Dead Fingers!),DoctorBill AMEN DOC!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 I always figured that the flow through the cooler would force any air through it no matter what angle you had it at. so... are you done yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 (edited) The first Belt one can put back on is the Alternator / Water Pump belt - it is the one farthest back and must be put on first ! It is not easy...the only way I could get it on was to place it over the Main + Alt pulleys and then the WP Pulley - BEFORE I attached the WP Pulley ! That is, I positioned everything while holding the WP Pulley in my hand and then slipped the WP Pulley onto the WP spindle and screwed the four bolts in by hand. Otherwise the Alt/WP Belt was just too tight even with the Alternator as slack as it could be. I will leave it here for the moment - the FAN mount has to go on it.... Don't be confused by the pictures - they were taken when I was all done ! The Breather Tube was placed back over the pipe it was disconnected from, the clamp reseated, and the two bolts put back - Middle and Left side. NOTE - be most careful ! The left side bolt holding the breather tube on fell off twice while I was trying to get it in...just being contrary...and almost fell into the open Spark Plug Hole in number one cylinder ! I about had a fart attack - it fell into the WP area, but I had thought in went into the spark plug port (right next to and below the bolt position !).... I even probed down inside with a magnetic retriever....before I found out where it actually went. God Almighty ! I wire brushed the two long Bolts on the AC Tensioner Pulley Assembly, applied a dab of grease to the threads and screwed it back on... The Long Bolts with 19 ft-lbs and the right side short Bolt with 13 ft-lbs. (Manual) I turned the adjusting screw until the Tensioner Pulley was down to the bottom of its run and the New AC Belt went on easily. That's the second belt outward.... That Tensioner Pulley rotated easily but sounded a bit noisy to me - may need replacing soon. CourtesyParts.com lists this part as - PULLEY ASSY-IDLER,COMPRESSOR. 11925M ($47.12 as of 8/8/2009) http://www.courtesyparts.com/11925m-pulley...cPath=5572& Off to the wrecking Yard for me ! I adjusted the AC Belt via the screw on top as shown until the AC Belt seemed tight to me. Then the AC Tensioner Pulley "Nut" was tightened to 15 ft-lbs (Manual). The Power Steering Belt was a Bugger All Belt to get on. I loosened the PS Tension Adjuster (have to do it from underneath) to its maximum run. I had to put the Belt over the Main Pulley while holding the PS Pulley in my hand..... I then pried the PS Pump downward (loosens it) and pulled the PS Pulley, with difficulty, onto the pump shaft. Not easy to do. The PS Pulley shaft has splines and once you get the Pulley into them, you are OK. Put the washer and nut on and tighten (15 ft-lbs). I tightened the PS Pump Adjuster screw (has to be done under the vehicle) until I thought the belt was tight enough. Once done, you run into a problem.....you cannot get at the Bolt that locks the adjuster. I had to remove the Bolt holding the Bottom Coolant Pipe and push it to the right to get at the PS Pump locking Bolt. Once tightened, I replaced the Coolant pipe Bolt. At this point, I had to put the Fan Housing back onto the Water Pump Pulley. I gingerly removed the bolts hoping the Pulley would not flip off - being under some tension from the Belt. It stayed. I placed the Fan Mount onto the WP Pulley and put the 4 Bolts back in and tightened them with a 10 mm Box Wrench. I tightened the Alternator Adjustment Bolt until satisfied, then tightened the locking nut. Now I was glad I had taken the spark plugs out before ! I turned the Engine over using my big old 30 foot cheater wrench and the 27 mm Socket on the Main Pulley Bolt. This allowed me to easily get at the four WP / Fan bolts to tighten them. It also allowed me to check that all the Belts were working OK and check the tension in each one. I tightened each in turn until satisfied. I am going to leave the Belts as they are until I run the engine and AC and such. If they squeel, I can tighten them...I don't want to destroy any bearings because of over tightening these Belts.... Next comes re-installing the Spark Plugs, hooking up the AT Cooler to the two rubber tubes with ¼ in copper pipe, and then putting the Radiator back in, filling it with 50:50 Antifreeze and starting the bugger up.... DoctorBill Edited August 8, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 HERE WE GO!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 (edited) I plugged the AT Coolant Hose Entry Points on the Main Radiator with Brass plugs (5/16ths, if I remember right - 60¢ each) which had Blue ATV in the threads. The Main Coolant Radiator was hosed clean with a high pressure hose tip blowing the water thru the radiator back to front to force out dead bugs and stones and any human flesh.... Bending the Copper Pipe to run from the new AT Cooler to the AT Coolant tubes below was a pain in the arse...wish I had obtained Aluminum Tubing ! One cuts most tubing with a pipe cutter - the thing with a wheel and clamp that you rotate around the pipe. These things cut the pipe, but also close down the inner diameter maybe by half on small tubing. So I filed the opening back to the original diameter using a Rat Tail File. Then came the long, drawn out process of bending the Copper Pipe and trying to "fit" it into the slot between the AC and Main Radiators - THAT was the pain in the arse. I had to cut my Cable Ties so that I could move the AT Cooler Radiator around. Getting the Copper Pipes into the AT Cooler Radiator rubber tubes was the hard part - no room to grasp and apply force - but it got done. In the picture shown, it got dark before I could secure the AT Cooler with seven Cable Ties (one to each pipe end). I'll finish it up tomorrow and connect the Copper Pipes up to the existing steel AT coolant pipes using the new rubber tubing that came with the Hayden Cooler. I need to put something around the Copper Pipes to keep them from rubbing on each other and the Vehicle body parts. Rubbing may eventually cause a hole for them to leak from. I'll put the Main radiator back in and the Shroud and Fan Blade Assembly. Then I can fill the Radiator with 50:50. I suppose then I will put the Spark Plugs back....crap, I hate that back right side spark plug fiasco. The AT Cooler into it's final position with Cable Ties. Found a bucket small enough to fit under the Vehicle and placed the AT Coolant hoses into the bucket. Since I had turned the engine over several revolutions with the 27 mm Socket on my 30 foot cheater bar, I know the timing is not off - no valve meeting a piston ! I hooked the Battery back up, grounded the spark wire from the coil and spun the engine with the Starter Motor - spun really nice (whew !) and some AT Fluid came out the tube on the right in the pic above. Smelled gasoline really strong - Injectors are doing their job. Decided to finish up. Spark Plugs first. I had a way of placing those plugs down in those deep plug holes by pushing the plug end into a piece of Fuel Line on the end of a Shish KaBob Stick and lowering the Spark Plug into the hole, turning the Fuel Line until the plug starts threading, then pulling the Fuel Line off and finishing with the Spark Plug Socket wrench. That way I don't damage or bend the Spark Plug end if it happens to fall out of the Plug Socket Wrench as they sometimes do - also you can better see what you are doing ! I also apply a dab of PERMATEX Anti-Sieze lubricant to each Spark Plug's threads so they will come out easily next time ! More coming DoctorBill Edited August 10, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 (edited) This was determined the hard way...the first thing to install is the Fan Blade Assembly. NOTE - the Fan has a front and back side to it - The front has an "F" stamped in the metal. Once the Fan is in, put the Fan Shroud in and hold it in place with wire... Once the Fan Shroud is in the campartment put the Main Radiator in. This takes some finessing and shoving and patience. You need to remove the wire holding the Shroud to wiggle everything into place at this point.... The two Radiator "Prongs" fit into the holes in the bottom of the Radiator Slot - had to be careful not to bend the AT Cooler Hose Clamp bands out - they get caught in the Radiator Fins and bend out if you are not careful. There is plenty of room in between the AC Radiator and the Main Radiator ! The two front Split Rubber Radiator Holders were placed and tightened down making sure the worn spots in the Rubber Holders was turned UP so they won't wear further. The Fan Shroud has to be pushed down so that the bottom edge fits into some slots at the bottom of the radiator and then two Phillips Head screws are screwed into the SLOTS in the Radiator Top - NOT into the holes that are above the slots ! Don't understand what the holes are for... All seemed tight at this point. Bent the Copper Pipes for the AT Cooler by hand so's they protruded exactly where I wanted them to. Have to cut about 3/4 inch off one end of the New upper Hose I purchased - went on easily. However, after installing the Lower Hose (new) the damned Nissan hose clamps fell apart and I lost a part...crap. This being Sunday and living in a small town where everything closes and they roll up the sidewalks, I'll have to wait until tomorrow to buy some strap clamps. Think I'll replace the upper Nissan wire clamps with strap clamps while I have the chance. I was hoping to get Coolant in this Pathy and starting her up ! Oh well - I have work to do around the yard...having siding put on the house and need to prepare some things. More coming tomorrow. DoctorBill Edited August 10, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 same bat time same bat channel!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 11, 2009 Author Share Posted August 11, 2009 (edited) ........Disaster....... ! I knew something had to go wrong..... Yesterday while helping my son get his car fixed, I bought six large strap clamps to tighten the Main Radiator hoses down. This morning, I changed the top Nissan Wire Hose Clamps for strap clamps - no worries. I spent almost two hours trying to get the bottom hose clamp next to the Radiator on ! What a Bastard that clamp position is ! Finally got it on as tight as I could given that it is tight up against the Radiator (Pipe is short) and the Freaking Shroud is in the way and there is no room for a tool and you have to work one handed....bugger all ! Got the Upper clamp on the lower hose on and tight. Checked everything. Filled the Radiator with 50:50 - no leaks. So - I decided to be brave and start the engine.... The engine started immediately and ran like a charm - no worries. No Bangs or Clanks ! I let it run about 5 to 10 seconds and figured I better see if there were any Coolant leaks. Killed the engine and when I walked around to the front of the vehicle I saw this....! . . . . . . In concentrating on the Coolant Hoses, I had completely forgotten about the A T Hoses being open...! What a freaking MESS. Then after a few minutes while I was soaking up the AT Fluid with paper towels, I see blobs of Green Coolant in the AT Fluid. The Radiator was slowly dripping from right under the upper hose connection....but the hose connection was quite tight. I suppose I have some "pin-hole" leak at the very top of the Radiator. But right now, I have AT Fluid all over the Belts and front end of the Pathfinder... Guess I will spray it off with hot detergent water. S...H...I...T...! Sprayed hot kitchen detergent water all over everything up front followed by a water rinse. I am worried that the AT Fluid will booger up all the New Belts I just installed. Will repeat the detergent wash & rinse in a few minutes. Maybe a Cigar and a Beer is called for - although I don't deserve it...what a pekkerwood ! Does anyone live close to Spokane, WA who can drive over here and Kick my Ass ? more to come - God knows what - at least the Timing Belt seems OK. DoctorBill Edited August 11, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 ........Disaster....... ! - at least the Timing Belt seems OK. DoctorBill You're doing GREAT and you should always make time for your cigars and beer!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 (edited) For the hose that is leaking try to reposition it, this happened to me when I did mine. What I mean is, loosen the clamp turn the hose a little then tighten it again. And for the transmission hoses, sh!t happens! At least now you'll have the chance to flush it! Edited August 11, 2009 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 LOL Actually, you are the only one to ever do something like that!! Shame on you !! I suppose I have some "pin-hole" leak at the very top of the Radiator. If you have the plastic and metal unit, you may have a slight leak at the seam. If so, inspect closely and under pressure if possible... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 11, 2009 Author Share Posted August 11, 2009 (edited) I cleaned up the mess - got most all of it into a Garbage Bag - I suppose the Environmental Thought Police will give me a visit now... Decided that I'll get some of that AlumaSeal - Aluminum Radiator Sealer to try fixing that leak. ---Of course after I try moving the hose as Adamzan suggests. I don't remember (this is becoming a big problem) if I mentioned this at first, but it seemed to me that there wan't much Coolant in this Pathfinder when I first started this project. The overflow bottle was empty and no coolant could be see in the top of the radiator. I think maybe this baby already had some leaks ! The water pump weep hole looked as if it had been leaking and this drip would be slow enough that maybe I missed seeing it before. Anyway - the mess is cleaned up and...............the FREAKING ENGINE RUNS ! Now I can attach the AT Hoses w/o getting soaked in AT Fluid. Hope that crap isn't too toxic - got it all over my hands.... So - it really is a successful venture, even tho I screwed the pooch with the AT Fluid... Thus - everything I did from start to finish wasn't bullpuckie. BTW - while looking at the Radiator's Butt end trying to tighten that inner lower clamp, I actually saw one of the Engine Coolant Drain points just in front of the Strut Mount ! I would also note that the fellow from the other forum (Automotiveforums.com) Crvett69, told me that he finds that lower Coolant Hose a "bugger" (quote) and does not remove it. He leaves it in place when he removes the radiator so that he doesn't have to deal with it either ! Wish I had tried that - could have put that hose on the easy way and lowered it down in there when I replaced the radiator - take note folks ! I think I found where the Radiator is leaking. The left side Shroud Mount....This spot has Dried Coolant marks around it. I think the bolt used (original ?) was too long and maybe punctured the Radiator Body - else the welds are leaking because they were forced out and split away from the Rad body. This Bolt should be a Hex Head to facilitate removal (no room for a Phillips Head driver). I'm now wondering if I need to get a rebuilt Radiator or have this ALL METAL one fixed... Did some phoning - A wrecking yard has a NEW one for $65...probably half plastic (top & Bottom). A Radiator Shop wants $130 to rebuild my ALL METAL Radiator or wants $95 for a new Plastic Tank radiator. Apparently you cannot buy new all metal radiators any more.. Wrecking yard radiators are probably all busted - being in a wreck - buying one runs the risk of the same problem I have now. DoctorBill Edited August 12, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 12, 2009 Author Share Posted August 12, 2009 (edited) Went into town and purchased a New CSF Aluminum / Plastic Radiator for $65. Am draining the old one -which is a pain in and of itself - gets coolant everywhere... I'm trying to save all of it...filter it and put it back when this is done. Why didn't someone tell me that you can remove the bottom of the Shroud Back round part by removing clips holding it ? Crvett69 (Automotiveforums.com) informed me of it....Thanks so very much ! The Fan Shroud is in two pieces (my '95 is) as shown below. Push the clips back on the outside about halfway down. The bottom of the ROUND portion falls away allowing the Shroud to be pulled out (the upper hose must be removed). Had I known this back when I started (I will edit this in on page 1), it would have been a whole different Ball Game ! Now I can work on the Radiator, Hoses, Fan, Belts - everything....with the Radiator still in place ! In fact - I wonder if I could have replaced the Timing Belt w/o removing the Radiator at all ! DoctorBill Edited August 13, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 Why didn't someone tell me that you can remove the bottom of the Shroud Back round partby removing clips holding it ? You were having too much fun?? You didn't ask?? We assumed you knew?? We figured you would see it when you were under the truck or had the shroud out?? We forgot?? It is generally done when you install a 2 or 3" body lift... That looks like the same radiator the PO of my truck installed. Works fine so far, but I never liked them. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 (edited) You were having too much fun?? You didn't ask?? We assumed you knew?? We figured you would see it when you were under the truck or had the shroud out?? We forgot?? It is generally done when you install a 2 or 3" body lift... B Admit it...you didn't know either - or you'd have mentioned it when I was complaining of how hard it was to deal with the Fan Shroud...wouldn't you have ? You wouldn't have let me go on and on having such problems.... Post No. 3 - I quote, "Remove the fan/clutch first after loosening the shroud, then everything can be removed including the radiator without removing the hose barbs." Nor has anyone else told me...and it is not in the Chilton Manual anywhere, is it ? 5523Pathfinder doesn't mention it in his Thread, either...Post No. 2 How to change your timing belt. Description with pics Crvett69 knew about it and told me once I had informed him, later on, about this forum. This amazes me - Such a simple thing left unannounced or that was not known. It changes this process from a bugger all - to - "no worries, Mate!" DoctorBill Edited August 13, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Admit it...you didn't know either - or you'd have mentioned it when I was complaining ofhow hard it was to deal with the Fan Shroud...wouldn't you have ? You obviously don't know me very well, so please review the date and comment #3 in the following link... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&...st&p=388122 You wouldn't have let me go on and on having such problems.... Then there is my post here telling you how I dealt with the fan shroud without removing the lower part... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&...st&p=417544 Nor has anyone else told me...and it is not in the Chilton Manual anywhere, is it ? Sheesh!! Sorry about that and Chiltons is best used when you are out of toilet paper. It is mentioned in many, many threads. Be honest Teach, we forgot to mention it and you missed it the whole time yourself... B Oh, great write up BTW, it may become the #1 reference and people will use it for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Sheesh, how many times are you going to edit post #95 before responding to post #96?? It makes a mess of relativity... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 (edited) First off...I am not trying to blame anyone or be a prique...I am pissed off I went thru all this and didn't know it was easy as pie to take the Shroud out. (BTW - I am a prique!) Vulgar Slang - A person regarded as highly unpleasant, especially a male. I sure don't want to get everyone here pissed off at me. Second - WTF is a "Lift" anyway....? In doing searches for "Timing Belt" (like looking for a specific shark in a feeding frenzy), I never came across this Shroud business and no one informed my while I was posting the struggle. No offense, but, "3) You don't have to relocate the radiator. (I know you can leave them be, but with my 2" lift and removing the bottom shroud, the fan blades are about 1/2 lower than the radiator shroud. A 3" lift would make the cooling much more inefficient. For those with a E-fan mod, this obviously would have no bearing.)"... leaves me wondering..."...what did he say?" Bottom Shroud ? - isn't that the rubber doohickie that I pulled off that covers the underside of the engine ? I'd have never gotten the fact of the Shroud being in two parts out of #3. In any case...here we are and now it is out for all to see. Onward. I am finding my new half assed cheap Radiator to be about ½ inch shorter that my original metal radiator. If I set it in the vehicle, the mounting bracket is ½ inch below the metal flange that holds the split grommet-screw bolt at the top. Now I'm having difficulty explaining myself.... ..and....I will edit until it is right and clear - after all - it is for posterior...oops...posterity. Edited in later on ----> Crvett69 again came to my rescue to point out that the Radiator has Rubber Grommets at the bottom on those two pegs. My only defense against being eminently stupid is that mine are rock hard from age (like my muscles) and looked like they were part of the molded bottom portion. I'll take pictures tomorrow. DoctorBill "Don't worry - be happy !" Edited August 13, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Second - WTF is a "Lift" anyway....? Body lift, ie. Divorcing the body from the frame, shoving blocks in between and bolting everything back up, usually accompanied by swearing and or blood sacrifice. "3) You don't have to relocate the radiator. (I know you can leave them be, but with my 2" liftand removing the bottom shroud, the fan blades are about 1/2 lower than the radiator shroud. The bottom shroud refers to the bottom 1/2 of the radiator shroud. I agree, it isn't clear but I was just pointing out that I did know of it... I see that part of the problem is that I (and many others) have been here for years and repeated so much information so many times that we now abbreviate, acronym, paraphrase and generally expect that someone understand what we are saying. Perhaps this is a good reminder to slow down a bit and there has been some effort to combine like threads but that is a daunting chore... All that said, yeah, we forgot to tell you that you can remove most of the bottom shroud and you didn't notice. In defense, mine was not easy to remove while on the truck and not put a screw driver (for prying) through the radiator, etc. I also have a 1/4 drive ratchet with a swivel handle that makes the fan bolts easy to remove, even with bear paws like mine. As before, good job and we'll work together better next time. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 For what purpose does one "Divorce the body from the frame, shoving blocks in between and bolting everything back up, usually accompanied by swearing and or blood sacrifice." Is this like beating one's head against a wall for the shear pleasure of stopping. Just kidding.... Mayhap tomorrow, with the new knowledge of the Rubber Grommets on the bottom Radiator pegs, I will get this baby finished. Now that the Shroud and Radiator are out again, I replaced all but one Wire Clamp with Strap Clamps. It will be nice to hear the Pathy's engine running again - and not have AT Fluid gushing out like a severed artery ! Knock on wood.... DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 (edited) Sorry Doc, I knew about the lower shroud as well. I figured you had it all out for photo clearance. I've done the timing belt/water pump change 5-6 times on 3 different trucks, and have only left the rad in once, the first time. Every other time, I remove it, as the extra space in the engine bay is nice to have. I bent a section of fins down on the rad the first time I did it, so I decided for the 10 minutes it takes to pull it out, it wasn't worth trying to work around it. Edited August 13, 2009 by Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Geez... I had been following along and applauding your work to date.... they you pull a boner like this and dump tranny fluid all over the place. I'm now disenchanted. no beer for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 (edited) No Beer ! That's it - I quit...I'm outa here ! Bye..... So...you'se guys are "disenchanted"....so before that, you were "enchanted" ? Back to work..... After Crvett69 reminded me that the Old radiator has Rubber Grommets (Bungs ?) on the bottom two Positioning Pegs, I set the two side by side and transferred the Grommets. The Grommets were quite stuck to the old Radiator and had to be pried off with a screwdriver. All the while I was praying that the hardened Grommets wouldn't split - they are hard. I plugged the AT Coolant Barbs on the New Radiator by putting Blue RTV on some bolts and pushing them into the Barbs and sealing the end off with RTV. The Barbs are not made like the ones on the Old Radiator. They are held in place with a large nut and internal rubber washers. I pre-positioned the Bottom Coolant Hose in place and just snugged the Strap Clamp and lowered the New Radiator into place. Seen in Photo later on...3 down from here. The Two Top Radiator Clamping Grommets were difficult to put into this New Radiator as they made the two flanges differnt than on the old Radiator - the new ones are not vertical slots, but have hooks in them. I took the Top Radiator Clamping Grommets apart. and "spit" on the rubber part - Lubrication....and forced the Rubber Grommet into the Plastic Radiator's slot - this takes force and squeezing and wiggling the grommet...but it goes in. I then slid the Metal Sleeved Washer in the Grommet (from the front) and inserted the Washered Bolt (from the backside) and screwed the Radiator to the Front Horizontal Support. Now - looking down inside behind the Radiator, I now (GENTLY !) positioned the Lower Hose to fit onto the Metal Coolant Pipe coming from the Thermostat. Maybe I am paranoid, but I wouldn't be forcing the rubber hoses on those plastic Radiator Pipes because they look quite weak to me. Might break off if you wang them very hard.... (?) DoctorBill Edited August 13, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 (edited) When I went to attach the Shroud to the New Radiator, I ran into a wall. The New Plastic radiator does not have the same attachment point arrangement as the Old Metal Radiator - and no attachment accessories were provided - I had to make them. You folks who already have the New Radiators no doubt have some attachment doohickies that came with your vehicle or you bought something from Nissan or you made your own...this is all new to me. So...an hour later...I made some "Clips" from a strip of galvanized Steel I found in my garage junk box (Do you see why I save EVERYTHING !) and found some quarter inch bolts, nuts and washers. The clips were made by bending (fatiguing) the strip, grinding it smooth, drilling the holes and bending the top. The clips slide into the slot perfectly - of course - I made them perfect...! Assuming you have the same situation as me - you are on your own here, guys...do the best you can ....if you use washers instead of making a "clip", then you will need to grind the two sides flat to fit in that plastic holder... The holder on the New Radiator is so damned weak looking...! Be careful not to break it off ! I made the Clips to distribute the strain... Here it is assembled. I'll put RTV on the threads so it won't come loose with vibration. I then put the bottom Round part of the Shroud back on. You have to do it from underneath the vehicle because you can't see past the Fan. Attach the bottom center into the peg and push the top sides into the slots - takes some finesse. Don't get dirt into your eyes ! The Top Coolant Hose goes back on and then I will filter the collected coolant back into the Radiator. Then I will continue draining the AT Fluid out - the right way this time - and hook up the pipes and fill the Transmission. DoctorBill Edited August 13, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 (edited) It is finish......! I be done ! Listo ! Alles ist ausgespielt. Fini ! I filtered the coolant collected in a big pan and poured it into the Radiator. No leaks visible... Then had my Boss start the engine while I directed hoses into a bucket. Spraying oil/air and was about to have "she who must be obeyed" stop the engine when it started gushing out and collected maybe a gallon before it started spraying again. Had her kill it. I would guesstimate maybe two gallons has come out. Cut the hose that came with the Hayden Cooler and spliced the Steel AT Coolant pipes to my copper pipe from the Hayden Cooler - ingoing at the bottom. Just as I finished, it started to rain like the proverbial 'cow peeing on a flat rock.' So here I am, all cleaned up from the AT Fluid all over my arms, waiting (for the rain to stop) to add the AT Fluid thru that small tube that holds the Dip Stick...Ha! Isn't there an easier way ? Maybe I should siphon the stuff in with some small 1/8 inch tygon tubing. Two freaking Gallons ! Does it sputter when you add - that is, bubble back out ? I am tired. I have small cuts all over my hands and arms. I have pine needles in my shoes and hair. I am thirsty and itchy. I want a Beer ! I deserve a Beer. Thus, I will go get a Beer and enjoy that Beer while it rains and contemplate serenely driving my Pathfinder down a country road and smoking a fine cigar....knowing that the Automatic Transmission is properly cooled and the valves and pistons are doing that for which they were designed. Ya...I know - still have to put the Grill, Bumper, and parking lights back on... But the scary part is over...knock on wood ! DoctorBill Edited August 13, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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