deerhurst

Not yet. Have the final exam for my last class in college due this week so it is on hold until that is done. Then I'll take a video. The inclinometer is far more sensitive than I want to to be so that will be a continuing project. The back light control doesn't work yet and I have no idea why. This is my thread over on Infamous for it. http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33338

It all works now except the stupid backlight control which does nothing. Going to start working on packaging.

Update. Everything is done but the final display of data and the housing. I have working MAP sensor, inclinometer, altitude and temperature.

V6 runs the R200 so you should have the R180 unless it is different over seas. Front diff is under the engine and will have a small skid plate protecting it. Not sure, never done my T-case oil. I just used a 1/4 ratchet tool with nothing on the end on my transmission if I remember right. Should be the same on the diffs and t-case.

It's probably far easier than you think. See if your clutch switch is normally open or normally closed. If I remember right the switch is activated when the clutch is out, no pressure on the pedal. If it is normally closed you just have to wire a switch to connect the 2 wires just like it would be with no pressure on the switch. If normally open, just place the switch in-line with a wire that breaks or completes the connection. Basically, you just have to mimic what the switch does when the clutch is depressed.

Ill keep you guys posted. Ordered some stuff last night. Should be here in a week or so. I liked that ATMega board. Found it for some $13 online. Its about $50 from sparkfun. I have a ATMega 2560 on the way, a 2x16 LCD display with buttons, barometer and temp sensor, 3axis accelerometer and 3axis gyro board and a MAP sensor for some random dodge that I found for $7 on the way. Hoping to use the MAP sensor for manifold vacuum off of a vacuum line. I want to mount the temp sensor so I can get outside temp. Would be useful to tell me if the roads might be icing up in the winter. No need for compass. Have a fairly good sense of direction. When it works then just have to fab up an enclosure. Would like to match the lines of the dash. When done it will be completely standalone. Wire it in, mount it and go. I might be adding stuff in the future. I would love to do exhaust temp (EGT) for the hell of it. Would just need a high temp thermocouple. And figure out where to mount it on headers. Thought about a small touch screen in the future. Didnt want to work with the complexities of that right now without knowing if the libraries were available. My C programming is pretty rusty. I also an a few years out of date as to where to find source code and libraries for this stuff. Where is the best place to look for libraries and code for various stuff? What programming software are people using for the ATMega boards?

Completely removed the vacuum stuff to fully disable the warm air flapper. I have headers so it is kinda useless to me and no more warming up the truck with it trying the breath through a 1" hole.

I was looking at the Arduino Uno R3. It has 6 analog inputs. That would be fine for me though I would use them all. I believe that the accelerometer, altimeter, temp and vac should all be analog. Thinking about getting a $10 MAP sensor off ebay and using that. I never even thought about e-bay for boards. My C++ is rusty. The extent of it is using classes. Last complex C++ program I wrote would take in a list of airports and a start and end point then tell you what route would be best. 12v is perfect. Planned to run it off the truck. One with the key and off with the key. Ill look into the atmega board. Sounds promising.

Benefit to me is expandability. A $30 ebay setup will give me pitch, roll and compass. I want to also impliment altimeter, outside temp, and boost/vac. Plan was to put it next to the pillar on the dash much like a mini programmer display. Im cool with not having to code for a microcontroller. Any suggestions on that? I have an 86.5 so the ECU hardly knows its an ECU. Id be lucky if I can get the diagnostic light signals out of the disgnostic port.

Im looking into grabbing some arduino stuff and making a inclinometer, altimeter and vac/boost gauge for my truck since I cannot find a OEM inclinometer. Just dont really know what boards to get. I think after that I can make some progress. It will need to run off 12v. Any of you guys have any ideas?

My sister had a Kia SUV thing. She said it was completely gutless. 45MPH up the hill out of town with the throttle to the floor. Hers ended up with a mystery disease. It would fire up, run for a few second then die. New ECU, new wiring harness and about 2 months of diagnostics it was scrapped. Hers had a wiring harness recall but it had been previously done. She now drives a Subaru. Far better in the winter, hasnt died randomly and can go up the hill without being floored at over 45mph while doing 30+MPG. Hardbody on the other hand....I had an oil pressure sender die.

The 4.1 is pretty rare in the Hardbody. Hard to find any info on it. I assume its a 4.1 as its a HG41 but cannot find any info on it.

I use Black Chrome. Its a wax for black stuff. Lasts my flares until they get covered with crap then fash and good to go.

Precise, that list doesnt show the 4.1. Nor does anything else on the internet. My 86.5 V6 HB has a HG41. I would have to find an old pathy brochure to see if it listed for the pathy too. It is in small print at the bottom of one of the pages in the hardbody brochure for 86.5. Ill look an see if NICO has the pathy brochure. Edit: Only the 4.3 and 4.6 shown in the 88 brochure. Guess the ratios didnt cross over to the HB.

Yes but dont forget about the mass of the tire. A larger tire may be heavier therefore take more power to spin and keep it spinning and in turn use more fuel at a lower RPM. I run 235/75/15 BFG AllTerrains. They are roughtly 30" tall. To me, they look too small. Planning to see what 31s look like under it for the next set. I dont have too much knowledge on the R50 other than my aunt runs the exact same 235/75/15s on hers as I do on my HB.

Mine were like that for my hardbody. Old, faded in places and scratched from storage. I went ahead an plastidipped them black. Turned out really well on a red/silver rig. 5-10 layers on each and they hold up well. One even decided to bail on the highway. Only skuffed the plastidip.

Maybe speedo gear. Mine is off by roughly 5% on my hardbody. It is not uncommon to speedos to be a little off (that sounds pretty odd) but I am not sure if 10% is in the acceptable range.

If you want to tow the most you can do a 5 manual swap to the FS5R30a. It is quite a burley tranny. Used in the z31, I think the z32, hardbody, pathy and I was recently informed by a foreign guy that his skyline (R32 I think) uses one. Then headers and cams. Or you could just leave the 3 speed in there. It will be more adept to towing as it has no OD over the 4 speed auto.

I think it will. The ECu in these older rigs only care about transmission type and motor. As long as it is VG30i with the same tranny type in each I see no problem.

I have 235/75/15s with steelies on my 86.5 V6 hardbody. Been seeing around 23MPG lately. Did manage 25MPG on an all highway run. The headers have done well.

Have you read the zombie survival guide? I keep a copy on my phone because I am that nerdy.

Mid 80s Kubota B1700 tractor. After that was a big blocked big body Ford Bronco of unknown year.

I hope they drop ago like in call of duty. That would be handy. My house would be fine, love in the lisle of a clearing on the edge of a meadow. Ask I would need is a crows nest on the barn.

I know there are alot of random dirt roads out west of you but I cant say where.

That thing is sweet! Have any build pics or such?