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Everything posted by 5523Pathfinder

  1. First gen xterra kit would work. Just need to place the button on the glass and install the mirror with some minor wiring. I think I have a kit laying around with a distorted mirro. I'm just not sure on the homelink part.
  2. Being that you didn't state how many miles you have on your rig, it's possible you may need rotors due to age. Your rig may have had a brake job or two done before. The shop should be able to take a measurement of the thickness of the rotor and compare to repair limits. At the least, they should machine them, you just don't want them too thin. Ask for some specs to be recorded. It's possible the slides on the caliper are gummed up. Good techs will pull them apart quick and lube them up. Ask to see what the tech did before he puts the wheels back on.
  3. Take the kickpanels off an you should see the grounds near the pinchweld towards the door.
  4. Looking at a 94's electrical diagram(nico's didn't list a electrical section for a 93). It seems most of those circuits only share a few things- ignition switch, the fuse block(under dash) and a ground point. That ground is 232M and is located behind the right kickpanel. It should be held on with a 10mm violet or a Phillips screw(pan head?). You can see the ground in the manual on page EL-82? Its possible it's loose or just needs to be tightened. That's where I'm leaning. But the ignition switch runs a close second as when you turn the key, it supplies power to certain things in the fuse panel. Is possible it lost some connection due to your keys jingling around(do you have lots of keys hanging?). Of course catching it when it happens is going to be the tricky part. Also check the ground bolt/screw on the drivers side in the kickpanel(202M).
  5. Make sure your condenser in front of the radiator isn't blocked up with mud, dirt, debris and such. Tonight I just washed a bunch of mud out of mine.
  6. Removing the radiator is pretty straight forward. Do you have a Performance Radiator near you? https://performanceradiator.com I've used many of them and all have been good. Exact match to factory. Unfortunately, there are not many aftermarket options unless you go custom.
  7. Ok, so you don't have power at the A/T control unit correct? Check the fuse in the wiring diagram on page AT-36 & 37. Make sure you have power to the fuse as well. If your fuse is ok and power is going through them, then it's time to check continuity of the wire.
  8. Follow symptom diagnosis on page AT-39 and let me know what happens.. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/at.pdf
  9. Well, you can drop the pan to change the fluid, but you won't get all of it. Having it flushed is the best way to get 99% of the fluid changed. What color is the fluid now? How does it smell? If you have wiring issues, maybe you killed power to the a/T control unit. I will look at the manual.
  10. The factory orange RTV only takes about 15 minutes to get tacky. IIRC, its 1/2 cured in a hour and will be fine to add oil to and drive the same day. Yes, just make sure the pand is clean and the flange isnt bent during removal.
  11. Very common. Due to age, replace the master and slave at the same time.
  12. What brand of spark plug did you install?
  13. Tranny cooler issues were on the 05-06 models. A lot have been fixed. Timing chains have been hit and miss. There is a warranty extension on them. If the engine sounds like it's supercharged, the tensioners are toast. Expensive, but once done, there done(unlike your subies headgaskets, which will fail again). Xterras have a solid axle in the rear, pathfinders have independent rear suspension. Pathfinders have 3 row seating, Xterras only have two. Pathfinders have a optional V8 engine! If you want more specifics, just ask!
  14. From the posts on Facebook, I bet! Im glad to know you will be on there!
  15. Thats exactly my problem! Anyway, Im waiting on the NissanNationPodcast to put up the Gone episode. Speaking of, when you gonna be on their show?
  16. Ya know what? I have seen many times a no start condition can by caused by the ignition switch. Basicly as it wears, the connection is lost when turning the key to start. You know its bady by turning that key a touch more and it starts. Next time it doesnt start, try turning it just a bit further.
  17. Dude, that is awesome! I've been wanting to go for several years, but the middle/end of May is tough for me. But I got two family members into 2nd gen Xterras now, so maybe I can work it that they would go too!
  18. If anyone went, they better of taken some pictures and need to share them. If they don't, may their homes be filled with the fleas from a 1000 camels!
  19. Pretty much, it will defiantly sound different than all other gears. Mine went down from this, but I found a rebuilt one from a 93 and swapped it in for $300
  20. Look for a sticker indicating a belt change. Other than that, no. You could remove the upper timing belt cover and inspect the belt itself, but if you are mechanically inclinded at all, just change it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/ As for the transmission, if there was a sticker(and I dont remember them having one) it would probably be long gone. LIsten for noise in 4th gear or if it has issues shifting http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/2621-manual-transmission-tsb/
  21. I was just about to post that thread! You beat me to it! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19042-pathfinder-common-problemsfixes-read-this-first/ That thread is kinda old, but still useful. I'm thinking you are just losing the tach, the regulator was for the older square dash gauges.
  22. First of all, welcome to the site! You find pretty much everything you need here to keep a Pathfinder alive for a very long time. Second, the Pathfinder your interested in is seems pretty good at that price. Rust is a issue, but not so much here in the Pacific Northwest, unless you are out on the coast. You can check the common rust areas on the frame in the rear, on the body and frame under the rear seats and the floorboard under the drivers seat. My 95 is pushing 245,000 and going strong with nearly no rust at all(a few rock chips and scrapes from wheeling). You would want to make sure the timing belt has been changed(due every 100k miles) and check the steering components for excessive play. The centerlink is a big issue if you plan to wheel it even moderately. The manual transmission has been know to fail to due incorrect fluid put in and the wrong level achieved. If he has records of any service done, that would be awesome. Nissan had a rebuild kit for it including a new case and bearings, but not everyone got it done under warranty and it gets rather spendy. You can change the fluid and "overfill" it by adding it through the transmission shifter plate. You want to use a GL-4 lubricant so it wont eat the gears and bearings. Everything else is pretty normal. Check plugs, wires, belts, hoses, ect for wear. If you want to check out a rig personally, there are lot of members here in the PNW that probably would meet up and let you check their rig out as a comparison(including myself). If you have more specific questions, please ask away. Oh, feel free to post some pics for us!
  23. Welcome and enjoy! Oh, when you post from photobucket, just copy and paste the IMG code and you get this...
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