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Nice, you got it already. Sounds like the last guy used the resistors to drop the speaker-level output from the head unit to the line-level the amps expect. When I first installed the head unit in my '95, I didn't do that, and two stages of amplification meant it got loud quick and didn't sound very good. It also meant that the stupid beeping noises from the Sony head unit were painfully loud. I've got stock-size oval mids in mine, with the tweeters and high-pass filter caps built in. They were already (poorly) installed when I got the truck, and they were in good shape, but they didn't fit right and the last hack just sorta stuck them mostly in the hole and used longer screws. I guess the factory Clarions were a little slimmer than modern aftermarket mids. I'd run into the same problem on my '95 when I put Boss speakers in it, so I'd already trimmed a set of the plastic mount adapters, and I just swapped those in. I've got nothing against rounds, I just used what I had. Most any aftermarket speakers should sound better than what's left of your factory ones at this point. While I had my doors open, I stuck some sound deadener to the sheet metal and made blockoff plates to screw over the holes in the inner door. Sealing up the door cavity like a speaker cabinet is supposed to improve the bass. It doesn't make it sound like it's got a subwoofer, but I think it helped.

Right on! Thanks for the tip with the dremel. I own one so I'll definitely do it. Really hope that it works because I don't want to be stuck with a dead car if it doesn't work lol

I recently completed installing Warn 29091 Premium Locking Hubs on my bone stock 2002 Pathfinder SE. I recieved a lot of good information from these boards when I was doing my research befere hand. It seemed appropriate to share the outcome with the boards since they were such a great resource for me. I hope this helps someone make the swap more easily! The procedure was much easier than i assumed it would be. Once the vehicle is off the ground and the rim is off it's clear to see what needs to be done. There are 6 nuts holding the stock, permanatly locked hub. Remove those nuts and get the stock hub off. Mine was a mess from a sloppy brake job done by a "professional" a few years back. Now tha the hub is off you need to replace the studs. The factory ones are not long enough...I tried to use them, believe me! Look at the length difference in the pic. Once the studs are changed install the 29091's according to the instructions. They pretty much slide on as 2 pieces: the housing is held on by nuts to the studs and the switch/cover is held in place with Hex Bolts. Take a few sconds to lock and unlock them, makes sure they "click" like they should when changing settings and that when unlocked the drive axel does not spin when you turn the rotor. With the locker installed and the rim back on, it looks like the pics below. The factory plastic Nissan-logo hub covers DO NOT fit over the Warn 29091's. I simply took a Dremel and cut the center out of the factory plastic covers to make a hole for the Warn switch to come through. It doesn't look much different from stock... I just finished this work the other day and have only made it throught a tank of gas with the new hubs in place. Running around town I got a almost 3 more MPG with the hubs turned off off. I'm about to take a 2200 mile trip, I'll update with the new milage after that. I hope this helps someone take the plunge...even if it IS from a newbie to the boards! Cheers!!