unccpathfinder Posted June 25, 2006 Share Posted June 25, 2006 well changed all the fluids and was fairly ok with what come out on the magnets no big chunks just some filings from all 3 and no big chunks which i expected out of the tranny since it grinds in 1st and 4th (well not anymore b/c i can drive it wihtout that happening 99% of the time) but i was curious since jiffy lube did the service before hand and pulled the fill level plug on the tranny and expected to get covered since it should have been above the fill plug and nothing hardly came out so i now believe thats y 1st and 4th have been grinding... so what kind of damage could be caused from not having the correct level due to the misplacement of the fill plug (i think they're in the wrong spot on the 95's) its a 1995 SE with a M/T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 so how did you drain the rear diff? i want to do this so i guess i will ask i could just rely on the search feature but i kinda think we need to liven this forum up a bit. dont mean to offend anybody. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 zonian, please, use some punctuation or capitals; it gives me a headache... You drain the rear differential by unscrewing the drain plug (1/2" ratshet will work fine) on the bottom. The clever ones remove the fill plug (the higher of the 2) first, thereby insuring that they don't screw themselves. unccp, no big chunks is good, and the grinding of gears 1% of the time could be bad/old fluid, synchro problems or operator error... Regardless, new fluid rarely hurts, and these trannys are known to last. If it gets to be about 10% within 10,000 miles then yes, I'd start looking for rebuild kit or shop, whatever is more appropriate. Ever bleed the clutch line or check system ? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 zonian, please, use some punctuation or capitals; it gives me a headache... You drain the rear differential by unscrewing the drain plug (1/2" ratshet will work fine) on the bottom. The clever ones remove the fill plug (the higher of the 2) first, thereby insuring that they don't screw themselves. unccp, no big chunks is good, and the grinding of gears 1% of the time could be bad/old fluid, synchro problems or operator error... Regardless, new fluid rarely hurts, and these trannys are known to last. If it gets to be about 10% within 10,000 miles then yes, I'd start looking for rebuild kit or shop, whatever is more appropriate. Ever bleed the clutch line or check system ? B Sorry precise 1. Usually I am in such a hurry to post that I just ramble without even thinking about punctuation and or capitals. I apologize... oh and thanks for te tip on changing the differential fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted June 26, 2006 Author Share Posted June 26, 2006 ehh the grinding has been going on since my cuz had the truck (so for about 3-5 years) and i've already put about 8k in the 4 or 5 months i've owned it and it grinds prob .5% of the time...i was just curious to see if the low fluid could have caused the syncro's to start going b/c im sure thats what is grinding... but for today i did notice it does in 1st a lot better now although i did manage to grind 4th but i was driving it to try and see if i could get it to and i think that was user error (didnt have the clutch but 1/2 way in) i also know i need to be getting a clutch pretty soon if i blow it up i'll use the 87's tranny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 The last time I put fluid in the rear diff the idiots at jiffy lube blew out my seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 Ever bleed the clutch line or check system ? B got linky by any chance? :bow: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 mz its like ure brakes u have a slave cylinder down on the tranny with a bleeder valve u can either drain it all out that way or you can take turkey baster and suck everything out of the resivoir...then bleed it like u do ure brakes... pump it like 7-8 times hold it to the floor and release the bleeder and repeat about a dozen times or so until the air is all gone (the 1st couple times it might stick to the floor just pull it up with ure hand) i sometimes leave the bleeder open until the fluid starts dripping out (some folks call this a gravity bleed) but usually im too impatient and get down there with my hand and pump it till its not sticking to the floor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Yep, pretty much what he said... Although pumping is bad, it can atomise the air bubbles. Best just one push... If the pedal height and or the petal free play is off a lot it could mean that you are not moving the slave cylinder far enough even if you have the petal floored... Inspecting for weeping on the mastercylinder, lines, etc is a good habit also. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 The last time I put fluid in the rear diff the idiots at jiffy lube blew out my seals. How so? You'd have to fill the diff to the top(hard to do, considering the fill hole is halfway down the diff) then run it at high speed until it heated the oil so hot it pressurized the diff. I've never heard of that happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR99.5Speed Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 My tranny doesn't grind anymore. It used to grind when quickly shifting from 3-4 but that's gone. Now the lever is really stiff in the mornings (when cold) and sometimes 1st is hard to get into from N (like at a red light). It may need Redline... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
513yj Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Yep, pretty much what he said... Although pumping is bad, it can atomise the air bubbles. Best just one push... If the pedal height and or the petal free play is off a lot it could mean that you are not moving the slave cylinder far enough even if you have the petal floored... Inspecting for weeping on the mastercylinder, lines, etc is a good habit also. B also with this put a piece of vaccum line on the bleeder if it will allow, then into a clear bottle with the line submerged in fluid. this is how i normally do it, and it saves on messy cleanup later. also if you can remove the slave from trans(as i'm not too familiar yet) you can hold the slave so the clutch rod faces downwards and slowly push the rod in around an inch or so while a buddy watches the reservoir for bubbles. when no bubbles come out you are bled and there is no chance for F up of air gettin in if you have to do this on the ground. i forget sometimes about my hoist and pit luxury. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 Inspecting for weeping on the mastercylinder, lines, etc is a good habit also. also that stupid lil boot on the slave cylinder cuze mine tore and it works but just shoots fluid on the ground until u run out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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