513yj

i brought home about the same thing and had the same running status runs funny lacks power and all that. i replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and still nothing. the problem was it was out of time and with a simple 10 mm bolt on the dizzy, turn it while running and see what happens, mine looked unfooled around with but it runs great now.

that little thing my 258 oilpan was pushed up twice as far and didn't make any noise but it leaked like a seive on the bolt surface area.

well i put in 80-90 and i have an lsd in the back but i haven't added the stuff to make it slip easier yet. but i only drove it to the side of my shop.

anyone know what goes in the x-fer case on an 88 path 3.0 auto. i drained out 80-90 and wasnt sure if that was right.

what year is it? i have an 88 and you pull up on the drivers door lock twice and it releases.

kid down the road has 33 growlers on his big a$$ed loud a$$ed chebby, they growl on the road a little, but they still looka lika theya be holding up to kid abuse(brake torques, squeal tires around every corner or else, 75 mph in a 45 etc. etc.)

mr. tire and pomps tires here do it and we are in the piddly population area in the u.p. normally a local tire shop should have a machine that does it i think. try yellow pages uneder tires and call the best looking ones like pomps tire or mr tire, not bobs tires or or hillbilly tire service or scottys tire and muffler.

hey, how come all these terrorist groups have ak's (snicker) and rpg's (chuckle)

i think not! if the us never helped britain, the germans would have had all of western europe, then they would have beaten the russians as they wouldn't have had to spread so thin since the battle for britain never would have took place and the bombers would have smashed russia and so on and so forth. then japan would have rolled through china and mad russia fight 2 wars instead of one but thats pure speculation and i am glad they never got to fid out.

don't need to, we were supplying the british before germany was even in russia or didn't you know that and that is involvment to me if it isn't to you than that is fine with me.

didn't you read the post? i said it was his right to i might not agree with him but it is his right it just p's me off that sacrifices were made so they can do that and they don't have enough respect not to, furthermore they don't agree w/ what's going on now so they burn the flag ask any legion member and they will tell you it disrespects them as much as anyone and lots of people gave thier lives for that symbol. and also the ruskies would have lost if hitler wouldnt have had to commit to fighting 3 fronts which we were a major part even before we entered the war.

thing is sweet the only drawback is the box of shells were like 40.00 and i think there was 30 shells. i shot the door handle off a 85 ford ltd on the 3rd shot at 50 yds. with open sights, thats a 2 inch tall target. not a lot of recoil either suprisingly enough but it is loud as he!! and it was pricey 2 years ago but now i don't know how much they are but prob still pricey.

lets see, umm remington 870 12ga. remington 1903 springfield 30-06 enfield 1903 springfield 30-06 redfied 3x9x50 russian ak-47 full auto trigger kit 2.5x50 2nd gen nightvision scope russian m-98 yugoslavian sks 5 different 22's tarus raging bull 454 cassul winchester 88 thats it for now just waiting till my buddy gets his ffl then it'll be all over

i know this is a little late but,,,, first off the flag being burnt upside down or rightside up really pi$$es me off. but that is my right and it is the right of the wrong people to do so. yet it still pi$$es me off and do you know why, here are the facts. roughly 3000 people died in the 9-11 attacks and all the crybabys that don't like bush blame it on conspiracy and coverups. then they call the wars we fight lies and deception. roughly 2900 troops killed so far in iraq i don't know about afghanistan. roughly 2400 troops died when 12-7-1941 and we lost 300,000 troops in ww2. my grandfather who died 2 years ago fought on the phillipines when the japs ran them off the island and he was there when it was taken back. alls i know is he gave his best so the sallies can burn the flag. so do the math if we go into a world war for 2400 lost why not 3000 then why is there any argument. now to your topic, and i didn't watch that crap so i have no basis of judgement and i don't know what hit the pentagon but a cruise missle probably would have made a bigger hole. i guess my point is that you can have your flag burning but you know how i feel about that, but in closing if it weren't for my grandpa(who was 32 years old and they barley would let him volunteer) and people like him you would be waking up to a swastika and the german national anthem because if it weren't for the dumbness of the japaneese high command in 1941 and they would have listend to yammamoto then hitler would have won the war and once he controlled all of europe and his army was strengthened he would have turned west to the usa which wouldn't have had a chance. but 12-7 saw to the end of that and one good thing came of it the jeep was invented and we now have lots of 4wds thanks to the bantam co.

the best way to weld a diff will shock you. all you need is a bunch of lead wheel weights an a torch. this won't work with open cage carriers but with that hb233 pic it will. you have to remove the carrier and clean it out with brake cleaner. then put the axle shafts in or you will hate the world when they wont go later. next rotate the carrier till a hole is at the top. then grab some weights with a pair of pliers by the metal holder and melt them in as many as you can fit. you need to hold the torch close to the hole and make sure the lead flows in good. keep rotating to the next hole and the next and so on till it is chuck full of lead. this will prevent the spiders from spinning and thus creating a full locker, but the bonus is lead is softer than steel so if a piece breaks off and gets into the ring and pinion it wont hurt it as weld chunks will. i did this to my 14 bolt 8 years ago and it still works great. i've done it to a lot of other peoples and they all work great. i never had any big parts fall loose but i think if it ever did you could heat it up and refill it to make it locked again. oh yeah don't breathe in the fumes, i haven't but i could just imagine

68 dodge superbee 440 6-pack, sm 420, 4.10 narrowed d-60 posi. now there is an auto, as for the newer gm mentality i guess i'll have to wait 10 years then as the newest chevy i own is a 96 2500 hd and it only has 175,000 miles but it has 3.73s and an auto so it gets 14 mpg empty and 9 towing. but i'd say it'll be a while before i can upgrade and when i do it's gonna be a dodge 3500 cummins-5spd as i drove both fords and chevs also at my old job and they didn't have the power of the dodge, especially uphill.

pieces of crap eh? got 275000 miles on my 90 chevy 2500 hd with 4.10 and a sm 465 granny gear and i still haul 4000 pounds in the bed all week long and pull 10000 pounds on a trailer, show me where i'm wrong but i don't think the foriegn pickup market can compete. oh yeah it gets 10 mpg empty at 6500 lbs and it gets 10 mpg over the scales at 18000 pounds.

nothing wrong with procomps, ran 33x12.50 on a stock comanche for 2 years in solid rocks and they are great, suck in snow and noy the best in mud though. to clarify the swamper part, tsl and tsl radials might wear a little fast but tsl-ssr's don't they are 3 totally different tires with 2 totally different purposes, and as i said a bro runs them on his yj and the majority 65-75 percent of the time it is on road on the highway at 65 mph and he's had them 3 years now. i had a set of tsl radials for 1 year on my 2500 chevy and they wore fast, pretty sure tsl bias ply will too. my yj is 95 percent rocks and has 36-13.5 iroks for the past year and i havent driven more than 500 miles on the road and they look like new yet minus rock rash. but for 75 percent on road can't touch mtr's for all conditions rain, snow, ice, mud, rocks as i ran them on my old rig and that was a 50-50 on and off road deal and i will give them an A+. just my nickel.

no they will not my buds yj has the ssr's as i think those are by the pic, and they are like stones. they don't wear very fast and suck the left one off road as well. normal tsl's and tsl radials are good off road but wear faster on road. a good alternative if ya got deep pockets are pro comp mt's, good both ways and also my personal favorite wrangler mtr's. i had a couple sets of bfg's and they aren't nearly as good as the couple sets of mtr's i had. the mtr's don't really wear out much faster either and would be my recommended tire for both usages.

usually not idling means 2 things, not enough fuel pressure or vacuum leak city. first thing i'd do is fuel pressure test, then compression test it so you get a better idea if the timing belt is off or not. it won't be the same compression if it is, although i have seen it where the cam lobes were torn off too and it had compression cause the valves weren't opening. you still could have compression if it's only one tooth off, but usually it will not be proper. if all this works fine then get a rubber hose and start listening around all the hoses and gasket mounting surfaces for air leaks, it will be a hissing sound.

jb weld only sticks to your pants

first thing i would do is pull off the tire, take of the caliper and spin the wheel of fortune. then you should be able to tell if there is noise or not. if it don't sound right then wiggle the rotor up and down, left and right to check for play. if there is play then something is botched in the bearings. wtf is that greenstuff? and where did ya put it, on the pad backing plate or friction surface? i've put on 300,000 pads and rotors and never used such a thing, but i have seen yellow and blue junk for making them quiet that is used on the backing. as far as the torquing of the nut, i've never done my path yet but i've done everything else under the sun from quads to forwarders and i've never torqued anything, but this really isn't proper. i've never had any problems with hammer and screwdriver and gentle strong spin so it turns one revolution and viola, yar done. like i said this is not proper but i havent had any problems. my bet without more info or without hearing it is that you have braking issues, maybe greenstuff is on friction surface and is the noise reducer for the backing so its the culprit?

pro comp 3000?

possibly brakes yes, but if you gently put on the brakes when you are going slow and the noise stops, then it's probably a u-joint on the back driveshaft, as u-joints make more of a chirping and brakes more of a squealing. jack up th back end and check driveshaft for play.