Tune-up

[zonianbrat]

:bow: First off thanks to everybody for all the advice. I have done some "minor repairs" and could not have done it without your help. Now it is time for routine maintenance my 97 has 117,000 miles on her and she runs great but i know it is time for routine stuff. I am short on cash so I can not to the timing belt and whatever else i should do while i am in there but i can do plugs and wires. what i am asking is what plugs should i use wires? cap too? and does anybody know any tips on changing that crappy plug in the back that is blind? any advice helps. also just thought i would ask... anybody know where to get a skid plate maybe used? i know black panther has new ones but again short on cash. thanks everydody.

[vengeful]

I wouldn't wait much longer on that timing belt. You may be a little short now to spend $300 doing it (and yes, you can do it yourself, its not very hard, just time consuming and tedious), but what happens when the t-belt lets go in 50 miles, 500 miles, 5000 miles and you need to buy a whole new engine?

[max_stryker]

yes replacing the cap is a good idea and rotor

here are prices i got for everything

 

NGK spark plugs $10.77

Wires (oem aftermarket) $43.79

Cap $23.97 (advanced auto)

Rotor $8.88 (advanced auto)

 

in terms of the #6 in the back its a pita.

 

heres a write up copied from somewhere but forget where so i dont know who to give credit too

 

 

"Changing the spark plugs in your 3.3 V6 (VG33E) is a pain in the ass. Why is it so difficult? Because of the 6th plug that’s located in an almost impossible to reach location (between the firewall and the back of the block). Do yourself a favor and make sure the engine is completely cool before attempting to change the plugs.

 

 

"Figure 1 shows the wrench setup I used. It consists of a 3/8” drive ratchet, two 3” extensions, one universal, one 6” extension and a 5/8” Spark Plug Socket. Of course you can substitute the two 3” extensions for one additional 6”. A Spark Plug Socket with a rubber insert to hold the plug is necessary.

 

 

 

OK, follow the spark plug wire back to the point where it disappears between the engine and the firewall. Reach your hand down along the wire as far down toward the plug as you can reach. Pull the plug wire off of the plug. The wire comes off very easily just as long as you pull it straight away from the plug. If you are pulling it at a slight angle it won’t come off! Locate the notch on the back of the firewall (Figure2). This is where you want to insert your wrench setup.

 

 

It's going to take a few tries and a little finessing to get the socket onto the plug. When you do get the socket seated on the plug you will have to stuff some rags or a small block of wood between the firewall and the extensions to get the leverage you need to loosen the plug. Place the rags right under the notch in the firewall (Figure 3). This should do the trick. The plug should come right out."

 

 

heres a link also.

 

http://fat4x4.com/bulletin/viewtopic.php?p=4164#4164

Edited May 11, 2006 by max_stryker

[snosnk]

check under you back seat. There should be a tool kit there. It will have the tools to change that pesky #6 plug.

[nycxice13]

Yea, that toolkit aint worth a damn, been there tried that.

[zonianbrat]

Awesome thanks guys!! I will attempt to do all of that this weekend. come to think of it about a year ago my wife's honda accord died on her way to work one day I pulled it back checked stuff that i thouht it could be then had to take it in. well the timing belt had broken so we paid like 400 or so to get it fixed. about three months later my wife mentioned that it was jerking a little at idle. So I got in it and drove it and it drove like Sh%$ literally. No power and jerky so I knew this was bad. Took it back in to the shop they called me and said compression tests were next to nothing. to make a really long story short, I had to have the top half rebuilt all new heads valves everything. Of course when it dawned on me that the belt might have been the culprit i confronted the mechanic he quickly back pedalled gave me some bs discounts and pretty much bent me over. So I am going to take your advice and change the tb as soon as i can.

[vengeful]

Works great for me.

[nycxice13]

I tried the long bar on 6, just for the sake of trying and could not figure out how to get it in. So i used something like the rig max posted.

[XPLORx4]

The long tube in the OEM toolbag is for plugs 1-5. The shorter bar that has a narrower end with 4 holes in it is for plug #6. I've done plugs 3 times using the OEM tools. I've found that accessing #6 is easiest when the engine is cool, so you can place some pillows, blanket, or other padding on top of the engine and lie down on top of the engine while you reach for that last plug. (This is especially useful if you're not that tall and your truck is lifted.)

[t0ast]

I've had no problem with #6 with the tools either. If anything, I had more problems getting the new plug in cuz I couldn't see the hole.

[vengeful]

If anything, I had more problems getting the new plug in cuz I couldn't see the hole.

That's the way it is with me generally, but here's a lil tip. Stick the plug wire (after you blow it off with compressed air and clean out the contact back) down into the hole right after you removed #6 if it's going to be more than a minute between removal and install of the new plug.

 

I've "lost" the #6 hole before, and that helped me relocate it. :idea: It also helps with getting the proper angle on the spark plug so you dont cross-thread the hole.

[tecciball]

I have read quite a few posts over the last few months about the pesky #6. Is that issue only on the VG or the VQ also? I have an 01SE.

 

Also, anyone have a part number for the NGK Iridiums that I would need for my 01?