turbopath Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 Well, before I get too far into the turbo planning process...my VG33 is a little tired at 150k miles. Has anyone actually done a VQ35 swap? I'm assuming it would need a complete wire harness, pcm, and trans to go with it. Can anyone verify this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 (edited) You got it. Although IMO, at this point, unless you have a buddy who knows how to to engine swaps for cheap, it would probably be more cost-effective to just trade in your truck for an 01, rather than attempt an engine/tranny/ECU-swap. FWIW, my '97 has nearly the same amount of miles, and it doesn't seem the least bit "tired", although it could use new valve cover gaskets. Edited April 24, 2006 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbopath Posted April 24, 2006 Author Share Posted April 24, 2006 I've got a few swaps under my belt already. I think this biggest pita was a 5spd to automatic conversion.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sierra Cement Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 If you are going to all that trouble you might as well start looking at a VQ40 and put the 6-speed manual in it....... that would make it all worth while ......... 265 hp and 284 tq shift_f^(k_yeaaaahhhh!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmd0311 Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 Yeah the VQ40 sounds way more sexy than the VQ35... BUT if you really want a VQ35 and just want to buy one... I am selling mine. 01 Pathfinder for Sale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR99.5Speed Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 Well, my engine may be done soon, and I was thinking about this swap, but the fact that I can't do this myself is discouraging. You know what you are doing with motor swaps, but all of the stuff like brackets and mounts, etc. could be a real PITA. Not to mention the cost of the motor plus ECU. If you do this certainly provide a writeup, if you are sucessful I will certainly do it and keep the Pathfinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbopath Posted April 25, 2006 Author Share Posted April 25, 2006 (edited) Well, so far my biggest hurdle with this path is finding parts. Junkyards seem to think I have a rare vehicle or something... I can probably get a drivetrain from japan for not too much money. With gas going up it's tempting to try the turbo diesel. Anyway, money wise I can put in a motor and still be under 6k bucks including the price of the car. I bought a real pos to build. Anyone know if nissan changed the bolt pattern on the trannies? EDIT...I love driving a manual trans, but this car has to be auto so my wife can drive it every once in a while. haha. Edited April 25, 2006 by turbopath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 If I ended up doing an engine swap I'd go for the TD30. I can't seem to find much of any information in English about it but it would definitely be cool. I saw on on ebay about a month ago but the guy wanted $3200 for it. :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 TURBOPATH & XPLORx4 Make no rash decisions just yet!! I will have my rig back from the shop on Friday with the JWT S1 cams installed!! (along with 100K maint + EVAP Canister) I will be able to describe the S1 results...I have not seen anyone actually depict their impressions of the cams in their trucks sooooo.... hold up TURBO and XPLORx don't just change those gaskets yet! I have: a pop charger 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster 50 Series REVO's 265/75/16 WARN manual hubs E-Fan this should provide accurate knowledge of most available upgrades minus Stillen Headers and Billet Crank Pulley!! Stay tuned! ps...anyone know which crank pulley should be a swap over from the Z car if any?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dernt Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 The crank has a different diameter on the snout versus the Zcar. So the pulley would have to bolt up to the pathy harmonic balancer. Why do you want to switch the pulley? To underdrive the accessories? I think I would look for horsepower elsewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 ...Still wainting on my truck to come back from the Mech. but I was looking to reduce weight not undrive my stuff....weight reductions are a quick/easy gain in ponies!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 Unless you really go to town and replace everything you can you'll never notice a bit of difference. Seriously. You'll be better off tearing off the heads and porting them, then getting new cams, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90seven Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 Well, before I get too far into the turbo planning process...my VG33 is a little tired at 150k miles. Has anyone actually done a VQ35 swap? I'm assuming it would need a complete wire harness, pcm, and trans to go with it. Can anyone verify this? Feels tired cause its a SOHC.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Feels tired cause its a SOHC...thats just wrong! LoL I did get the cams in S1"s, I will drive it about 50 miles tongiht so I will be able to give some sort of idea on that topic.....is there anyone on this forum that has them and messed with the engines timing to get the extra ponies? or for that matter has some real experience with that?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Advancing your timing for more power works. Just don't push it too far or it'll start to knock and then the ECU will retard advance and you'll lose momentum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Feels tired cause its a SOHC...thats just wrong! LoL I did get the cams in S1"s, I will drive it about 50 miles tongiht so I will be able to give some sort of idea on that topic.....is there anyone on this forum that has them and messed with the engines timing to get the extra ponies? or for that matter has some real experience with that?? How much did it run you to get the cams installed? Where did you get new lifters from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 (edited) I have the S1's installed...so far it sucks! The installer set the timing back to 0 at TDC (or says he did) and the truck runs like poo. at 2500 rpms the tuck seems to wake up and move until 4500 then feels like the same old truck...but I have a (i hope only one) problem. The ecu is sending a P0300 code...random misfire. I now have an exhaust manny leaking whether it is a gasket (cause he re-used) or the manny is cracked. several people that I have talked to said that it is possible the the ecu "sees" the exhaust leak and identifies it as a compression loss/misfire. I have new gaskets and am ready to check the timing-- the sticker under the hood of the truck suggests that it is set to 15 degrees BTDC...does that mean the timing should be set to 15 Before Top Dead Center??? Idle quality right now is bad, so is the noise from the gasket (sounds like valves clattering--LOUD)..the truck when driving has noticeably more torque...the engine is not working to roll the 32"'s and gets up and goes on the interstate...as I said though the power is splotchy. XPLORx4 here is the link to the site I got my lifters from. I have a friend that has had done work by this small garage for about 15-18 years, the mech is an old Honda certified tech and has always done work outside of his job...then retired from the dealership and just does outside work now. He works on everything, but loves his imports (for work)...I bought all the parts (minus 1 plenum gasket {he used} and 2 exhaust gaskets{he didn't}) and his labor for the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, by-pass hose, new rad hoses, new drive belts, cams, lifters, cam seals, head gaskets, removal/installation of heads, new gaskets was.......$645 All together including a new EVAP canister and vent valve I had spent $1800...now I just have an expensive busted truck...this is wearing me out! Any help or pointers anyone can give is incredibly appreciated! Edited May 8, 2006 by 98silverpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 If the base timing is set to 0, it will run TERRIBLE. Why the hell did he do that? It should be between 12-15 BTDC, regardless of cam design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 yeah get your timing set to factory settings. you will be more happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 Hope that your mech. didnt set the belt up wrong! A tooth off will cause all kind of issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbopath Posted May 9, 2006 Author Share Posted May 9, 2006 (edited) You can't just hook up something like cams and expect the factory computer to figure it out. On my other car I had to use a safc to get the dumb thing to run right with cams. I think around 18 degrees advance and pulling out a lot of fuel made it run wonderfully. In fact, I didn't even gain power until it was tuned. The final AFR was in the mid 13's. On the pathy I'd still shoot for 12.5 AFR just because it's a SOHC and you might tow with it or something. pm me if you want some help getting those cams tuned. (oh ya, cams+automatic is an awful combo.) Oh ya, if the belt was a tooth off you'd think it wouldn't even start... Edited May 9, 2006 by turbopath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90seven Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 (oh ya, cams+automatic is an awful combo.) y? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbopath Posted May 9, 2006 Author Share Posted May 9, 2006 (edited) It sucks because an automatic loads the engine at idle when in gear. So if you have cams with a crappy idle, you sit there at stop lights about to get whiplash. You don't notice it as much with a 5spd because the motor isn't loaded by anything but accessories and you can have a smoother engagement when you start rolling slowly than the auto will. I would have to slip my clutch out at 1500 rpm to get rolling, but that was a much more aggressive cam than the S1's I bet. (not a pathy) Some people have had luck putting a very small capacitor on the ground wire of the MAF to cover some of the spikes from the cams. I think the MAF system is a little smarter than MAP when it comes to cams, so I bet you should be able to clean up your idle and make better power across the board with a good tune. Edited May 9, 2006 by turbopath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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