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3+3 w/ 31's


94 Pathy
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WAVEY

Hey all! I'm getting impatient and want to order my BL and get it installed, but don't have the money for the tires & wheels. Does anyone have any pic's of their Pathy's or anyone elses that has a 3+3 with 31's? I'm thinking it might look too goofey and too much gap between the tires and the wheel wells. :shrug:

 

If anyone has some pic's or input on this, please post pic's or you can email me personally.

 

Thanks everyone! :beer:

 

P.S.

 

Does anyone have a shifter out of a HB for sale? Going to need one for the BL.

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Well, I've read and have heard that the shifter might be too short. Most guys have swapped out the Pathy shifter for the HB. The HB is longer since the HB's sit higher than the Pathy's. Pretty easy swap out from what I hear. Easier than extending the Pathy's shifter.

 

I'm really wondering how things are going to be for me once I do the 350 swap. :hide:

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Hey wheel,

 

Did you do your headers yourself? Just curious if they were a pain like everyone says they are? A buddy of mine and I are going to attempt my Pacesetters with dual exhaust this Spring.

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:sniff: :sniff:

We'll have to keep each other posted on the progress and share tips. My buddy has done exhaust work before and done headers, but not on a Pathy. All I hear is horor stories and I'm getting a little nervous about the whole thing. That's why I'm taking a week off of work and going to do the headers/exhaust, Warn hubs, seal & bearings for the front passengers side, HP chip for more power and then start working on the 350. Would love to get the BL done also, but waiting on a few parts first. :hide:

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No need to change, or extend the shifter at all...just take off the shift knob, put a big piece of pipe over top of it and bend the shifter forwards. That'll tweak it enough that you'll be able to get into 4-lo, and that's all that matters. :D

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For anyone else reading this thread:

They are referring to mods to make the transfer case shift lever fully functional after a 3" body lift. Since the lever is mounted to the transfer case, it does not move when the body is lifted.

Sometimes it will still work, but usually the stock pf knob/lever ends up hitting solid things before it can move all the way to 4 lo.

The knob being 3" lower also results in the boot having to be rather distorted.

 

The TC lever used in Hard Body pu's is longer.

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Yuo need to change the shifter? Please, don't tell me that!

you know, i have heard this from alot of people, chaning, modifying shifter cause it pops out or won't shift into 4low... i have no issues with this. goes in just fine doesn't pop out.

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Maybe your lever was bent to begin with and it just works that way. Heh.

 

DO NOT PUT A PIPE ON YOUR SHIFTER AND ATTEMPT TO BEND IT WHILE IT IS STILL INSTALLED IN YOUR VEHICLE. Jesus, vengeful. There are noob's out there, don't tell them to do stuff like that. Somebody'll end up breaking something or getting hurt that way.

 

When I did mine: I took out the shifter, trimmed a notch out of the floor and carpet at the front of the console, then heated up and bent the shifter forward and a little left so it fit just right.

 

When I did Rami's: I took it out, cut the shifter in half, lengthened the shifter (welded on a sleeve) so it was about 2.5" taller, then bent it a little to get it just right. Here's a picture.

 

ramishifter.jpg

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Beauty, Aaron. Thanks for the pic! It really says it all...

 

And I won't even comment on the appearance of the welds... after all, form follows function and nobody will ever see them. The key is to make 'em strong and fuggeddaboutit...

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:clap:

Thanks Pickles! Great pic. I'm now debating if I should even go with the 33's. I gues I'll see what happens when time comes near and if money is available.

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After my BL, the only issue with the shifters I had was with 4lo. It just barely wouldn't go into gear. When I took off the shifter boot it went into gear just fine. If that's the case when you do yours, you could just trim a little of the bottom off the shifter boot plastic bottom. The shifters felt low after the BL but I'm used to where they sit now.

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After my BL, the only issue with the shifters I had was with 4lo. It just barely wouldn't go into gear. When I took off the shifter boot it went into gear just fine. If that's the case when you do yours, you could just trim a little of the bottom off the shifter boot plastic bottom. The shifters felt low after the BL but I'm used to where they sit now.

Same here, and I've lived with it for a year now. The shifter mechanically moves just fine, but its the boot that is the issue for me. Since the shifter is 3" lower now, the boot kinda crunches down and deforms. When you try to go to 4 low, especially when its cold out and the rubber is stiff, it can be tough to get it in. I was thinking of a Hardbody shifter swap, but am starting to think of maybe trying one of those aftermarket leather boot replacement things instead. I kinda like it being farther down on the floor out of the way till I need it.

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:bow:

Thanks Earth & Pickles!

That will eliminate one less thing I need to get for the lift completion. How about the radiator drop kits? I've read that if you get longer radiator hoses, you should be fine...Is that true, what did you do? How about brake lines? I would like to get the breaded for the durability sake. :shrug: Would a auto parts store know what length I would need if I told them what I was doing or would I have to get them special ordered or does AC carry them?

Thanks fellas! :beer:

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Braided lines are very nice... I buy the components and make my own 'cuz I'm a cheap bastard.

 

Two things to keep in mind:

- The braid is abrasive if allowed to rub up against other things.

- If abrasive dirt works its way through the braid (like granitic soils or sand), it will abrade away at the teflon liner. As I live in California with lots of both, I cover and seal mine inside a polyurethane tube. Another reason to make my own - it's easier and cleaner to fit a snug poly tube over the hose before the second end is installed!

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