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Supporting a truck in a gravel Driveway


Harbinger
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My truck might need to be supported for awhile while I get some things taken care of with the CV joint and steering. I can only do it in a gravel area beside my house, since the pathy won't fit in the garage, and my cement driveway is an incline. Not to mention the gravel area is gated off from the street, so I can avoid looking like the neighborhood redneck if my trucks going to be down for awhile.

 

How can I do this safely? I have some pieces of 1/2 ply I was thinking of putting under the stands, but thought I'd ask here first.

Edited by Harbinger
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Something more solid than ply would be better, like a 2x8/10/12 whatever is wide enough for the jack stands to safely rest on. Ply would probably more more prove to weakening due to adsorbing water too. :shrug:

You could also use some solid bricks, but I would not recommend cinder (sp?) blocks. Although I have used them before, I can't advise anyone too because they tend to break easily.

Edited by RedPath88
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Plywood, and then a couple side by side concrete pavers and then another layer of ply will give a pretty darn solid foundation. So each stand will have a 12" by 12" (minimum) under it.

Jackstands straight on top of 1/2" plywood would be sketchy - the feet of the stands will present significant point loads - which could crush/break the ply. The layer of concrete pavers will distribute the load.

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plywood is kool but i wouldn't use particle board (OSB and the like) i also like 3/4" better. done this many times.. whatever you use DO NOT use any kind of bricks.. concrete, clay or otherwise.. they don't do that well in compression as one might think.

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I once used a windshield from a skidoo to support my hi-lift......it was just laying about 50' from where I was stuck in soft dirt :shrug: , worked like a charm and convenient....thank you snowmobiler :D

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One other thing - after you pull the wheel(s) off, put them under the frame so if the jackstand slips/falls over/breaks, the vehicle can only fall until it lands on the wheel.

That can make the difference between hurting you or killing you.

 

After I ran over myself in my driveway, my firefighter buddy had a little talk with me about using TRIPLE reduncancy when working under cars.

In the previous year, he had personally responded to two calls for vehicles falling off jacks or jackstands. Both were DOA's. And incredibly gruesome - not pleasant for the children/significant others that found them.

 

So now when I go under a car (my driveway slopes):

A1) Transmission locked

A2) Parking brake is firmly set

A3) ALL wheels still on the ground get a chock.

And then when I lift and go under:

B1) I use very HD jack stands

B2) I place wheels or concrete blocks under the frame

B3) I leave the jack in place as well.

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I always leave the jack in place AFTER setting jackstands. Who wants their head crushed for no good reason?

I agree...

Because in the off chance that it does come off the stands it AND rolls of the jack, just having that jack there will give you a split second to even a couple seconds long to get the h*ll out from under the truck!

 

That along make it worth leaving the jack in place -thnkboutit-

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yes please be careful goin under the truck my friend ( i wasnt there) was crushed changing a clutch in his driveway ( hes alive but had NUMEROUS broken ribs, punctured lung ect you get the idea. if your doing this on gravel get a piece of 2 x 10 x 8 pressure treated wood and cut it to size its like 10-15 bucks. this way you dont have to worry about it getting water soaked its ment to be outside. stick tires under truck on frame or on unibody jack points. use jack stands and keep the jack in place under truck like everyone else said. if you have bricks use em no cinder blocks they are weak your pathfinder will crush it if it falls with enough momentum.

Edited by 2001pathfinderLE
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For the record, cinder blocks (or concrete blocks) are actually extremely strong when loaded in compression. I'm sure you've all noticed multi story buildings built out of them. And the bottom row is enduring the weight of EVERYTHING above them.

 

The problem is that they are also extremely weak when loaded in tension. And if there are any kinds of bending forces, that applies a tension force and they will crumble/shatter amazingly easy.

 

So if you do choose to use them (and like those above, I generally recommend against it), make sure they sit on a perfectly flat surface and the load is well distributed across the entire face of the block. Lay down a sheet of thick plywood under the block, and put another on top. And make sure the holes are vertical - like how buildings are built (and not like how I see most soon to be shade tree organ donors use them.... laying on their sides :wacko: ) Never set any kind of point load on them or they will crumble and fail. So think Oreo cookie when using.

 

PS - I use them all the time - but with great care.

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For the record, cinder blocks (or concrete blocks) are actually extremely strong when loaded in compression. I'm sure you've all noticed multi story buildings built out of them. And the bottom row is enduring the weight of EVERYTHING above them.

 

sounds nice but there is steel and grout in the buildings along with a "perfect" footing and load. DON'T USE THEM! truck may shift even just a little and that's all it takes.

 

mws, nothing personal but i don't want to hear of a mws pancake on the news...ok? i think you're playing russian roulette here..

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