Harbinger Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 (edited) So I was driving the twisty road to the ski hill today. I got high enough (heh) into the snow pack and put it into 4HI. Shortly after that I noticed my steering wheel was wandering more than usual, even when travling in a straight line. Rolled down the PS window and I could here a "thwack" sound every few seconds. I put it back into 2wd then and things seemed to go back to normal. Got to the parking lot and took a peek at the undercarriage. Sure enough the PS boot where the axel meets the diff is nearly gone. The DS looked fine. So at the very least I'm looking at replacing a boot, if not much much more. Any ideas on how much more, or how difficult this is going to be to fix? Edited February 4, 2006 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 If you've caught it early enough, you may get away with just replacing the boot, but, if ANY dirt gets in there, it'll tear up the CV joint really quick. In other words, get that boot replaced ASAP, and hope for the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derogate Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 too bad they dont build them like ford... lol... Honestly though. The driver side CV joint in my 89 tempo has been split open (i mean right apart) for about 3 months now.. I've been driving it all of december, and january... probably over 2000 miles... Its broken, no doubt about it, but its still working. Its horrendously loud when I turn too! at this point I'm just driving it to see how long it'll last before I throw her to the wreckers. anyway, Thats a story of what not to do... fix that boot asap. and hope it ends up ok. If worse comes to worse, you'll have to replace it anyways. Do they make "speed boots" for these CV's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 So I was driving the twisty road to the ski hill today. I got high enough (heh) into the snow pack and put it into 4HI. Shortly after that I noticed my steering wheel was wandering more than usual, even when travling in a straight line. Rolled down the PS window and I could here a "thwack" sound every few seconds. I put it back into 2wd then and things seemed to go back to normal. Got to the parking lot and took a peek at the undercarriage. Sure enough the PS boot where the axel meets the diff is nearly gone. The DS looked fine. So at the very least I'm looking at replacing a boot, if not much much more. Any ideas on how much more, or how difficult this is going to be to fix? And you think that little bit of rubber is making your car wander? I hear a cash register ringing its heart out as you fork out the $$$$ to fix your stuffed front end steering components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted February 4, 2006 Author Share Posted February 4, 2006 (edited) And you think that little bit of rubber is making your car wander? I hear a cash register ringing its heart out as you fork out the $$$$ to fix your stuffed front end steering components. I'm not sure what to think honestly -- you guys are the guru's not me I'm just trying to fix whatevers wrong and learn something along the way. Plus I already know my steering parts aren't in the best shape ever, (hey, the truck cost $450) but it did get noticbly worse when 4wd was engaged -- and I didn't have this problem on tuesday when I went up last. Edited February 4, 2006 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenn Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 the sound and the fact that it's worse in 4wd makes me think it is the front cv joint and that you probably cooked it. I cannot explain the steering problem unless you also toasted the steering box too. I tore my cv boot and ended up replacing the entire driver's side half axel[~ $350]because the cv was done for and it cost nearly the same to replace the entire half axel, once you add in labor ; if you can tackle it yourself it will probabaly cost under a $100 for the cv alone but it's a tough job [imo] so good luck!--glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 i had to replace both my front CV axles, cost like 100 to 150, but it helps if ur dad is a master mechanic and works for a shop with a lift and has all the tools under the sun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revgolem Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Replacing the entire axle is definatly the way to go. to only way to avoid this is to get one of those "split-boot" type of replacements... but they are very temporary... some people have luck with using them for quite a while, but mostly you just keep replacing them. to replace the boot with a 'normal' type, you'll end up removing the axle anyway, spending some time cussing and banging to get the joint apart, and the banging it back together hoping that 1) you didn't damage anything and 2) that joint didn't get worn in the first place. (been there, done that... and that was as automotive school with tyhe advice and close eye of several instructors and every tool you can imagine at my disposal... would never do it again) remanufactured axles are definatly a viable way to go, most have a warranty that you won't need to use anyway, and you will usually be able to return the old one as a core to get some money back. if you take it to a shop to have it done, they will just replace the axle as well. 99% of them won't want to mess with taking it apart to change the boot either... and you wouldn't want them too as it would add even more labor time to the whole ordeal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted February 4, 2006 Author Share Posted February 4, 2006 (edited) I'm thinking about just replacing the whole axel like you said. I can get a re-man'd one @ napa for $93 w/core. Would it be worth it to look for these @ the local wreckers? Or is it better to get guaranteed parts for a job like this? I'm planning on doing it myself -- but it depends on how much beer & pizza it takes to get my Saab mech. Buddy to help out Especially since this doesn't sound like an shade-tree mech/easy job. Is it recommended to do both sides at the same time? Even with the DS not showing any obvious damage? Also -- would it be worth it to swap out anything else while I'm in there? Edited February 4, 2006 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 If it is your PS CV that is causing the wonky steering than you should get it replaced ASAP. Unless the DS is torn I wouldn't fork out the cash to replace it. In fact, if the PS boot is just torn and the axle isn't damaged, I wouldn't rush out to replace it either. I've had a torn outer boot on my DS for almost 2 years and it hasn't given me grief yet, 2WD or 4WD. I add more grease the odd time and plan to just change it when it's toast. So far so good, *knock knock* You will get some noises similar to what derogate is hearing on the Ford for a while before it binds/explodes and you're stranded somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derogate Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 I was just thinking, that your CV joint may be accounting for the noises, but not the wandering. what COULD be casuing the wandering is the added torque on the Front end steering bushings and related items that are worn, from having 4wd engaged. Maybe thats why it gets better in 2wd? I dunno, just my 2 Cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Now that i read your post again, i see the boot is nearly torn right off and you are hearing noises in 4WD, so a new axle soon would be a good call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Replacing the entire axle is definatly the way to go. to only way to avoid this is to get one of those "split-boot" type of replacements... but they are very temporary... some people have luck with using them for quite a while, but mostly you just keep replacing them. to replace the boot with a 'normal' type, you'll end up removing the axle anyway, spending some time cussing and banging to get the joint apart, and the banging it back together hoping that 1) you didn't damage anything and 2) that joint didn't get worn in the first place. (been there, done that... and that was as automotive school with tyhe advice and close eye of several instructors and every tool you can imagine at my disposal... would never do it again) remanufactured axles are definatly a viable way to go, most have a warranty that you won't need to use anyway, and you will usually be able to return the old one as a core to get some money back. if you take it to a shop to have it done, they will just replace the axle as well. 99% of them won't want to mess with taking it apart to change the boot either... and you wouldn't want them too as it would add even more labor time to the whole ordeal. Wow, with advice like that its a wonder anyone would do their own work It took me an hour to pull my axel shaft and replace the boot on it. No banging or cussing needed. As for tools, just a pair of diagnal cutters, snap ring pliers, and small hammer for the boot. I do recomend a good long extention and swivel socket for the bolts holding the axel shaft to the diff flange. The only "hard" part of the whole job was getting the upper BJ reconnected at the end. The noise is probably from the lack of grease in it atm (probably all sprayed out when you put it in 4hi). As for the drift, like others said, 4wd might just be exagerating an exsisting wear issue in the steering or suspention components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted February 4, 2006 Author Share Posted February 4, 2006 I'm going to take a stab in the dark here and say I need a new axle. Half of the boot is missing, and god only knows for how long. I'm going to start tracking down a new axel, snap ring pliers and some help tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 I've actually discovered that it's easier to replace the whole axle than it is to replace the CV. The axles come fully assembled, and you don't have to worry about taking off the old boot and greasing the sucker up. To get a new boot would have cost me $40 + ~$5 for grease + tax. I found a reman at CarQuest for $68 + core ($40). I've kept all my old axles with torn boots for trail spares. The last time I changed the axle it took me all of 45 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 I honestly can not for the life of me think anything than utter dismay at what has been said here. I know we all need to learn but seriously! Some of you guys are old school and the reason for the car wandering is what? FFS!!!!!!! A CV joint?????????????????????? For christ sake. How on Earth does a CV joint effect steering? Think about it FFS! I might take a beak from this site for a while. No, after seeing the pathetic replies here... I need a break! See you all in a week or two. This is the straw that broke the Camel's back. Call me Camel. Oh, and in case you did not know. The boot being worn is not a big issue in the scheme of things. Mine were f*cked for nearly two years (hard 4wding too) and were never an issue in that time. I am not saying that the CV's did not suffer, they did not break or fail in that time! You want to know what sent me over the edge? This................... I cannot explain the steering problem unless you also toasted the steering box too. I honestly wander how man ever got to the moon with stuff like that. P.S. Derograte, you are excluded from my scathing, but well deserved attack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 I might take a beak from this site for a while.See you all in a week or two. This is the straw that broke the Camel's back. Call me Camel. YAY!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 McBain - err...Vsicks....chill out bro. This is a public forum, where individuals can post their theories, opinions and experiences. You take this stuff way too seriously. :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 I honestly can not for the life of me think anything than utter dismay at what has been said here. I know we all need to learn but seriously! Some of you guys are old school and the reason for the car wandering is what? FFS!!!!!!! A CV joint?????????????????????? For christ sake. How on Earth does a CV joint effect steering? Think about it FFS! I might take a beak from this site for a while. No, after seeing the pathetic replies here... I need a break! See you all in a week or two. This is the straw that broke the Camel's back. Call me Camel. Oh, and in case you did not know. The boot being worn is not a big issue in the scheme of things. Mine were f*cked for nearly two years (hard 4wding too) and were never an issue in that time. I am not saying that the CV's did not suffer, they did not break or fail in that time! You want to know what sent me over the edge? This................... I cannot explain the steering problem unless you also toasted the steering box too. I honestly wander how man ever got to the moon with stuff like that. P.S. Derograte, you are excluded from my scathing, but well deserved attack. You sound slightly annoyed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 wow. cv boots are 12-$15 and include the grease...reassebying the upped bj is prob the hardest.. one of my joints didn't want to come apart no matter what i did.. i ended up driving to a town and going to a machine shop where i used the guy's bfvice and bfh and bfbreaker bar.. and it came apart like butter. it's not a hard job at all... you should be able to knock it out in a half day or so... now, if the cvs are shot really bad it will give you a shimmy, fo sho.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 MZ, that's kinda the point. Even if you have the tools and inclination, you're still looking at a lot of work and time even if things go ok. Hence the opinion that if you already have that much invested, you might as well replace with new parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 sure but if there is nothing wrong with the axles themselves why waste the money? two boots $30.. done.. jmho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted February 4, 2006 Author Share Posted February 4, 2006 (edited) Vsicks: Wow Dude -- Think you overreacted a bit? It may not all be sound advice, but they're just trying to help. -thnkboutit- For christ sake. How on Earth does a CV joint effect steering? Think about it FFS! I'll give this one to you, your probably right, my truck wandered more than a senile goat even before I noticed the mutilated boot. Even so I think its obvious the CV needs attention, and I don't think its a bad place to start. I hear a cash register ringing its heart out as you fork out the $$$$ to fix your stuffed front end steering components. Could I ask you to be a little less dark and ominous and tell me what you really think is knackered? Edited February 4, 2006 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenn Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Clearly I'm not as perfect as some others here. All I can say is when I had a torn boot, and heard popping noise coming from the front end during 4wd , replacing the cv joint [with the half axel] solved the problem. This is a fact. Just trying to help--glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 4, 2006 Share Posted February 4, 2006 Wow, you guys are good. You scared Vsicks off. Er...well... disgusted him off at least. I've rebuilt my CV axles twice and they still work allright. All it takes is the time and place to work in. It's a fairly simple job. Remanned CV's generally run between $100 and $150 for one side complete, and get this: they're the same on either side. The picture with half a missing CV boot looks fairly well hosed, I'd get that replaced before trying to go offroading and beating on it again... The wobbly CL and tie rods on Harbinger's Pathy are probably what's causing it to steer funny in 4WD. Mine did that very badly before I got the L&P steering. I wouldn't blame the steering box unless it makes noises or starts leaking. I have two good CV axles for a 90-95 Pathy for sale ATM, actually...See my post in the For Sale section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts