leojharris Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 (edited) wow. changing the starter on a 95 xe sucks the hardest of them all. i read some of the write ups so knew it wasn't a cake task or anything, but i mean ... pulling an engine and putting it back would probably be more inviting. who out there had to somewhat dismantle their starter before pulling it out through the front? also, the same on the way back in and then trying to get that damn metal shield bolted back on. it took about 4.5 hours. gotta get some gloves ; my hands are wasted. i'm actually looking forward to doing my own header install and stud change after that. Edited January 19, 2006 by leojharris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSM_guy Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 (edited) good lord lol....i dunno what you did for those 4.5 hours, but it took me a grand total of 5 min to get mine out and about 10 to get it back in. that was in a school parking lot just winging it (no directions) and no, i didnt have to unbolt anything from the starter Edited January 19, 2006 by DSM_guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Welcome to the club. From now you'll be known as "he who types with wierd characters" I am known as "he who didn't put the little shield back on" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 been there, done that. took mine apart and took it out half through the front past the centerlink and the other half up past the oil filter (which I had to remove). PITA!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Those starters will try your patience! Especially for a first time removal on a lunch hour on a very cold January day. I was pretty much ready to get it towed to a garage. Easiest and fastest way I have found is to remove the oil filter first of course. Then, slide the starter forward as far as it will go, then slide it back and up towards you while twisting it back and forth so you can fit it up and out on the passenger side fender well. That method literally takes just a few minutes as DSM_guy said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 not mine. Even with the oil filter out and everything else on the fender-well that was in the way having been removed, there was still no room to rotate or even try to squeeze it through. Once I took the shield off the solenoid, I could move it around but it still wouldn't fit through the available openings. I'm thinking that there are some differences in years. I have only heard of significant problems with the 94's and 95's during removal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 I believe that one of my posts included rotating the Stock (W/Shield) starter, so the shield is in the 12:00 Position, and it slides forward relatively easily :X "he who didn't put the little shield back on" hehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Those starters will try your patience! Especially for a first time removal on a lunch hour on a very cold January day. I was pretty much ready to get it towed to a garage. Easiest and fastest way I have found is to remove the oil filter first of course. Then, slide the starter forward as far as it will go, then slide it back and up towards you while twisting it back and forth so you can fit it up and out on the passenger side fender well. That method literally takes just a few minutes as DSM_guy said. yep what he said, same thing when i did my 87 that oil filter is in the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 I found that for me the key was unbolting the idler arm and swinging the centerlink out of the way. Easy as 1-2-3. sly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSM_guy Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 maybe im missing something here..but i uh...unbolted the starter, slid it back a few inches to disconnect the wiring, and pulled it right out the front. sure, a lil twisting and tilting, but it literally came out in 5 min from the time i slid under there no disconnected linkage no disconnected oil filter no removal of anything except for the starter. yall are talking about a vg30 right??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leojharris Posted January 20, 2006 Author Share Posted January 20, 2006 maybe im missing something here..but i uh...unbolted the ... yall are talking about a vg30 right??? i'm pretty sure that's the same engine as mine; but lord ... oh my ... (and i've done several starters on several cars) that was the tightest fit i've ever seen. my hands, man ... my poor poor hands. :-) glad to have saved the bucks, though. i thought about leaving the metal shield off, too but the thought of having to redo the job gave me the heebee geebees. i still kinda half assed it as i only put one retainer screw in the shield. one question to anyone listening ... i hastily removed the under fender rubber shield-cowling type thing that shields the engine components from debri and weather and what not ... how important is that stuff to have under the wheel wells? should i re order a replacement from nissan? .joel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 If you want to save some money, people have used different materials from rubber floor mats to landscaping liner. If you have a bit of the old one, you can use it as a template if you don't want to eyeball it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 That shield is quite important if you play in the dirt or mud, and quite expensive. It keeps dirt and water out of an off of your engine. If you still have what is left, try buying a cargo area cover, rubber mat, etc. and tracing the old one onto the new material to make a new one. I did so, adding for a 3" body lift, and it cost less than $10 vs. 5 or 6 X's that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Go to HomeDepot and get some of the EPDM pond liner. It's abut $10-15 per foot and foot = 1 foot x 18 feet so all you need is about $15 of it. That stuff is INDESTRUCTIBLE and perfect for the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leojharris Posted January 20, 2006 Author Share Posted January 20, 2006 Go to HomeDepot and get some of the EPDM pond liner. It's abut $10-15 per foot and foot = 1 foot x 18 feet so all you need is about $15 of it. That stuff is INDESTRUCTIBLE and perfect for the job. can the pegs that snap it in be found somewhere? junkyard, maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 can the pegs that snap it in be found somewhere? junkyard, maybe? You can use zipties or go to any automotive parts store like NAPA and get them there, they're pretty inexpensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Go to HomeDepot and get some of the EPDM pond liner. It's abut $10-15 per foot and foot = 1 foot x 18 feet so all you need is about $15 of it. That stuff is INDESTRUCTIBLE and perfect for the job. i never thought of that,,, thats a great idea! know i know how to fill in all my gaps form the lift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC88Pathy Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Something tells me that DSM had an easier time because he's got a body lift. I got the material for my gap gaurds (which I still haven't made, stuff keeps coming up) at orchard supply. They had pre cut sheets (I don't have the measurements on hand right now) in the flooring section, not sure exactly what it's supposed to be used for but it seems like sturdy stuff. Cost me like $25 for two sheets. I got lucky and all my little plastic tab doohickies were still there. As soon as I get around to making them I'll make tracings so people can have an outline for which to copy from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 Something tells me that DSM had an easier time because he's got a body lift. I don't think DSM had a body lift at the time he did his starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 22, 2006 Share Posted January 22, 2006 can the pegs that snap it in be found somewhere? junkyard, maybe? Ditto to trying autoparts stores. I know MSC Industrial carries some so Grangers probably also does... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSM_guy Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 (edited) I don't think DSM had a body lift at the time he did his starter. nope...this was ooooh late october 04 when i changed starter, i just got my lift put on this weekend i mean it wasnt FUN, but it sure wasnt the crap yall mentioned. tight fit and a bit frustrating at times but it was 10x easier than say....removing the oil filter. now that i do have the lift tho, i think those things will be MUCH easier hehehe. oh and good call on the pond liner stuff. i need to replace all my engine skirting and make some gap-guards for the rear Edited January 23, 2006 by DSM_guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leojharris Posted January 24, 2006 Author Share Posted January 24, 2006 Something tells me that DSM had an easier time because he's got a body lift. I got the material for my gap gaurds (which I still haven't made, stuff keeps coming up) at orchard supply. They had pre cut sheets (I don't have the measurements on hand right now) in the flooring section, not sure exactly what it's supposed to be used for but it seems like sturdy stuff. Cost me like $25 for two sheets. I got lucky and all my little plastic tab doohickies were still there.As soon as I get around to making them I'll make tracings so people can have an outline for which to copy from. i found a similar material at home depot; perfect, really, they call it ... ... PLUMBERS RUBBER! ... ... mid grey color; would like black better, but it's pefect weight and flexibility; much tougher than the original material. 11 bucks for a 2 x 5 foot peice; plenty of room; i found the pieces of the old one so will make a template from that. priced a new one for just the right side at nissan and they wanted 55 bucks. shwew!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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