94extreme Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 And they have a torque wrench and a manual? Good shop. i doubt they have a manual but i am sure they have spec sheets or something.. yes, they use a torque wrench.. that's why i still go to them even though i live on the opposite side of town.. even my mudders are form there and have road hazard warranty on them.. see how many places will do that on a mudder sometime.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 I was not having a go at you RP88. I know you were not Just expanding for any who might have thought that I just "good enough"'ed everything You'd freak to know how I loosen the bolt then. Not likely, I have some rather "creative" way's of breaking things loose myself As for doing everthing to spec, I would love to see the manuals you guys use. When I say "everything to spec" I simply mean that if a manual has a spec on it, I do it... just like the auto makers, I do it to cover my arse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 my mudders are form there and have road hazard warranty on them.. see how many places will do that on a mudder sometime.. The 33in BFG Muds on my yota have full on/offroad hazard on them... if they cannot fix it, they replace it Two of the BFG AT's (the KO's) on my Path have the same, the other two (pre KO's) I bought used, with less than 100 miles on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 The tire/oil change shack I used to work for (private, not a chain) had manuals with the proper lug nut torques as an FYI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Not likely, I have some rather "creative" way's of breaking things loose myself I use a breaker bar and rest it against the chasis. I remove the EFI relay and then turn her over. One loud bang and she is loose. If there is another loud bang then something went horribly wrong. I have been working with cars longer than I care to remember and it has not happened yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 well i've been around plenty of shops that use the goodnuff policy ...i'll use it to a certain extent but not the extremes i saw...the valve covers being 1 cuze i dont see trying to put an adapter on a torque wrench to strip out a phillips head...but as far as engine internals yes i do those and on the driveline with a lil bit of threadlock but one question for all...esp after the technical engineering aspect The idea behind "torquing" is to tighten the bolt until the head is being pulled down hard enough to "stretch" the shank of the bolt an ideal amount. You want to stretch it as that tension leads to a constant and considerable friction force in the threads and between the head and part to keep it from loosening. The more it is elastically deformed, the more it clamps. But only within the "elastic" range of the bolt. If you stretch it beyond the elastic zone, then the clamping force no longer increases and instead the bolt just stretches in what we call plastic deformation - which means it is permanent deformation and does not reverse when the force is removed. And when that happens, two things happen: 1) It changes the granular stucture of the metal, and 2) it necks down and gets smaller in diameter. after the bolts are torqued to yeild they shouldnt be reused...how many folks reuse these bolts...i know i have reused my head bolts which is a big no no in lots of peoples books and could cause me problems but i did that before i really knew about all that good stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Ummm.... I have. sssh Probably at least a few times before I knew better. And a couple times after.... But I accept responsibility for doing so. I thought hard about what the risks were, and if there was any chance they had been reused more than once. I chose to reuse them once - but I would not do it twice. Each time they yield, they neck down a little more. And so far, I've gotten away with it! But that doesn't make me any more confident I always will. Again, it is all about the risk. Some bolts from a particularly good batch of base steel could probably be reused 20 or 30 times before they failed. But one with an internal flaw? Nyet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 chose to reuse them once - but I would not do it twice. yep thats the way i look at it...more than once they're goin to the trash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 alright now that i know how to torque the bolt. why wont my engine start? when i cranked it over the first time i left the socket and ratchet on the bolt. would me not torqueing it good enough screw up the timing sprocket? so then the cams arnt doing anything. thanks for you help -Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 i doubt it.. might be wise to have a look and see if the key/keyway is in good condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 alright ill have a look at it. there is still a crankshaft position sensor that is all screwed up but would that cause the engine to not start? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 i think so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 after the bolts are torqued to yeild they shouldnt be reused...how many folks reuse these bolts...i know i have reused my head bolts which is a big no no in lots of peoples books and could cause me problems but i did that before i really knew about all that good stuff... I had a look at my wifes manual. Not one mention of not reusing head bolts. However, and I have not looked it up yet, it will say not to reuse the fly wheel or ring gear bolts again. It is a good point you make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 alright ill have a look at it. there is still a crankshaft position sensor that is all screwed up but would that cause the engine to not start? I agree with mz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 i might would pop the top timing cover off...if the rachet got in a bind it could have snapped the timing belt or possibly made it jump a tooth? thats prob not the case but if it was me that would be what happened cuze my luck stinks...hope ya get it figured out with minimal damage to the bank account Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 alright ill have a look at it. cause when i cranked it i only did it for about 1 second just to see if the starter was working correctly but i looked under and it was just caught on the sway bar but loosened the bolt. so i dont think it screwed up the timing cover or what ever. but should i look at the timing belt? ive never done anything with the timing before on a car so i dont have any experience. what is the timing belt made of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 thats what the timing belt looks like well to check the belt u need to pull the belts and if u have a tensioner pulley the bracket for that and then theres like 6 or 7, 8mm bolts that hold the upper timing cover on...pop it off and if you dont see the belt or the belt has slack in it this is bad but if not it still could have skipped a tooth and i dont really know how to tell ya ot check that except to pull it all off and check the marks on the cams and crank... if you have a FSM or haynes or chiltons read up on that about it a lil bit...but i'd also wait to see if some of the more knowledable guys on here have an opinion about it being a timing belt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted January 11, 2006 Author Share Posted January 11, 2006 alright thanks. if it is the timing belt. how much is it for a new one. and how do you set the timing. are there like marks on the sprockets that you line up or how does that work out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 (edited) well 1st off i just kinda thought i didnt really see where what year model and motor u have...i've got a vg30 motor which is an interference motor i belive the 4 bangers have a chain and arent interference but could be wrong when i broke my belt i bent 3 valves which meant i had to rebuild the top half and it cost me about $300 to do it myself b/c if u dont tear up the heads or shatter a piston u have to buy a engine gasket set valves and the timing belt which is like $20 or so as for the marks the cam gears will have a dimple in them and on the top right (driverside) and top left (pass side) there is a bump in the rear timing cover the crank should have 1 (my truck didnt have 1 so we made 1 after we set # 1 to TDC) but all 3 sets of dimples/bumps should line up at some pt it might take a couple revolutions with the crank to make it easy if u can figure out the position of the rotor in the dist cap the marks should line up when cylinder #1 is suppossed to fire ::edit:: saw its a 96...and i also saw on napa it was like $50 for a timing belt for ure truck...im guessing its still an interference motor but dont hold me to that...and i'd still wait around for some other folks inputs on the whole timing belt thought b/c i still donno how probable it is and im sure some1 knows more than i about this Edited January 11, 2006 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted January 11, 2006 Author Share Posted January 11, 2006 alright hopefully i didnt screw up valves and such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 I had a look at my wifes manual. Not one mention of not reusing head bolts. However, and I have not looked it up yet, it will say not to reuse the fly wheel or ring gear bolts again. It is a good point you make. Some designs require the fastener to be torqued to yield, some do not. If the manual doesn't say to replace, you can reuse. Glad to see some folks make good use of manuals! They're not just for breakfast... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted January 11, 2006 Author Share Posted January 11, 2006 well if my crankshaft position sensor was damaged would that cause the engine not to get a spark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 I believe so. If you have a crank sensor, it tells the computer when to fire the coil. If sensor is not providing an output, the computer doesn't get a signal to fire, so it doesn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 pull a plug and place the wire on it have some1 turn it over to see if its sparking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted January 11, 2006 Author Share Posted January 11, 2006 alright guys thanks for your help ill try out a couple of your ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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