glenn Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 The stopping of my '90 SE with front disks and rear drums was never great and with bigger tires is awful. I got the brakes redone with "posiquiet" pads and slotted front rotor but no improvemnt [even after braking them in and bedding them] What pads has anybody used that worked better than stock? Noise is a concern but is second to stopping! THANKS !! --glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 I officially have Wagner/federal-mogul "ThermoQuiet" pads on all my cars now. Great results!! Smooth, quiet, strong braking!!! I was racing a lifted ranger in the boonies yesterday... he was in front (stock QX4 trying to hang with a super lifted and extended ranger with external shocks - HA HA) Next thing i know, there's a huge cloud of dirt and smoke, the ranger flipped like three times and stopped on a fence, I had to swerve like a maniac to miss him, then I was out of control and was headed straight for a large drop off!!! I hit the brakes, ABS kicked in, i was scared for my life!!! All i see is a huge drop in front of me coming up FAST. I pressed on the brakes with my life (which probably wouldnt make a difference since ABS was kicked in) and the QX4 stopped within one foot of falling to its death. Brake pads?? I doubt it, but i'm glad i changed them last week. I also have thermoquiets in my civic si which i do a lot of autocross (parking lot) racing in, and they hold up to a lot of beating!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 I think you may be used to driving sports cars or something, but braking has never been good on Pathfinders. Pads won't give you much results and they definately won't make you satisfied especially since you thought the slotted rotors weren't working out... with those slotted rotors you probably have some of the best brakes on this forum. The next step is stainless steel brake lines. I hear they make a huge difference. Here is a link: http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...07153099725d778 Or if you have a lift: http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...07153099725d778 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 You can transplant a Chevy MC on there for a LOT more brake line pressure. I hear it works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MATTY Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 Hi guys I recently changed my pads and thought something was wrong but it took about 2-3 weeks to bed in properly but fine now pads are bendix i hope this helps very worrying 2-3 weeks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC88Pathy Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 Rear discs will help a lot too. Go to local JY's and see what you can find. Don't forget if you do that swap you will need the MC from the donor vehicle too. Also remember you are trying to stop 4000+ pounds worth of vehicle, it's never exactly going to stop on a dime. Also here's a little article on brake performance, looks like you'v already done what they have though... http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/april05/pathfinder/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 I got a disc brake MC from the JY a few days ago, gonna see what the FSM says about line pressures and see if I can just plug and play that baby to get the drums working better. Mine suck, always have. I'd LOVE to have better brakes. On another note, now all I need is the backing plates or a pair of whole axles off a disc rear to swap mine out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 (edited) whenever you increase tire size you decrease braking effect because of the longer lever arm created by the larger radius. there are lots of tricks you can try to fix this, but slotted rotors and exotic compound pads dont really increase your initial bite on the rotor, all they do is reduce fade caused by a buildup of heat and gasses between the pad and rotor. so unless you want to upgrade to larger diameter rims and larger diameter brakes, then just learn to downshift and use the engine to control some of that weight. I run 33s with stock brakes on my 90xe, and stock gears. the only brake problems I have experienced are when crawling down a hill. and the real fix to that problem is just lower gears, not bigger brakes. If your braking is really awful like you say make sure your rears are working right. I blew out a slack adjuster in a drum and it caused the proprtioning valve to send all fluid to the front brakes leaving me with no rear brakes. Edited January 2, 2006 by oilman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenn Posted January 2, 2006 Author Share Posted January 2, 2006 THANKS eveyone. Does anybody have experience with SS brakelines ? Will this help at all? Right now in order to maximum stop I can bottom out the brake pedal against the floor boards.[ Yes I had the lines bled and the rears drums adjusted [twice]]--glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 (edited) I got the steel lines for my 98 and cross drilled rotors.....but an axel swap has slowed all of my efforts for right now! That is a pain in the arse!! Looks easy, if bolts and nuts work as prescribed, threads don't lock, studs don't break and you have enough bearing grease to last!! I'll post my true (crx ricer...err uhh racer) feelings when it is all done to give my best opinion! These items on the CRX made a big difference, but she just needs larger rotors(period). ----->cross drilled rotors ----->steel lines ----->rear aluminum mini drums freshened w/spring kit and shoes ----->swapped a Honda Prelude MC and brake booster (for help w/the 30-40% larger MC) ----->Flushed and riced the proportioning valve can you believe that the rice didn't help either??? ( I painted the valve anondized blue to match other under hood components!) <-----see rice valve left of intake piping! Edited January 3, 2006 by 98silverpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Dank Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 I'll add my .02. I swapped in Brembo cross drilled rotors and PBR metal master pads. A world of difference compared to stock rotors and ceramic pads. This was a little over two years ago. I think I'm due for a brake change and will stick wit the same pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabod7 Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 so ummm... go with what i got.... disks on all 4 corners! i cant stop quick as hell, esp. while sliding around a muddy corner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 I got the steel lines for my 98 and cross drilled rotors.....but an axel swap has slowed all of my efforts for right now! That is a pain in the arse!! Looks easy, if bolts and nuts work as prescribed, threads don't lock, studs don't break and you have enough bearing grease to last!! I'll post my true (crx ricer...err uhh racer) feelings when it is all done to give my best opinion! These items on the CRX made a big difference, but she just needs larger rotors(period). Dude nice CRX engine bay!! Post some more pics in the pic forum! I used to own a 97 DX sedan and a 99 Si all fixed up, I love Hondas. Also, in the link to NPM, the pathfinder is SICK!!! CHeck out the shoes VOLK te37 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 THANKS eveyone. Does anybody have experience with SS brakelines ? Will this help at all? Right now in order to maximum stop I can bottom out the brake pedal against the floor boards.[ Yes I had the lines bled and the rears drums adjusted [twice]]--glenn Hmm... still to the floor? That ain't right... Bleed them again. There's a lot of hype about SS lines and how they make you stop faster, harder, whatever. Tripe. What stainless lines do, pure and simple: 1) They dramatically reduce the amount of brake line swell - so the pedal does not move as far for a given amount of pressure. If you are positive your lines and cylinders are properly bled, it is possible you have a bad set of lines that swell a lot and you will love the difference with SS lines. But I am still using the original lines in my '87 and my pedal moves maybe 1/2" from initial pad contact to hard stopping. So I strongly suspect you still have a bubble somewhere in the system. Try reverse bleeding or tap all the fittings while bleeding to dislodge the bubble. If you had someone else do it for you, have it done by somebody else. Preferably someone a bit more competent... 2) They don't rot. They use teflon inside the steel braid - so no rubber to rot and eventually crack or split. It is recommended that rubber lines be replaced as a PM/safety measure - I've seen recommendations from every 2 years (for vehicles stored in high ozone areas) to every 10 years. Regardless, they need to be replaced periodically. So based on #2, I eventually convert all of my vehicles to SS lines. Just haven't got to the Pathy yet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 I got a disc brake MC from the JY a few days ago, gonna see what the FSM says about line pressures and see if I can just plug and play that baby to get the drums working better. Mine suck, always have. I'd LOVE to have better brakes. On another note, now all I need is the backing plates or a pair of whole axles off a disc rear to swap mine out. Odds are, you will find the line pressures way too high for the drums and they will lock way too early. :o Not a problem! You can get an adjustable brake poportioning valve for under $50 and dial it back down to exactly what you need. I use a Wilwood valve in our tow van, it was about $50 from Summit Racing and has a nice large knob for easy adjustment. I dial the pressure way down when not loaded (I have 13" disks in the rear!) and simply reach down and crank it up when the bikes are loaded in and the trailer is hitched on. It was kind of a pain to run the lines into the cab so I could mount the valve under the dash, but I am adjusting it pretty regularly so it was worth it. In your case, you can just add it in line under the hood. If you need brake line cutting/flaring/bending tools, give me a holler and you can borrow mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenn Posted January 5, 2006 Author Share Posted January 5, 2006 THANKS AGAIN TO EVERYONE. wELL i HAD THE BRAKE SHOP SWAP OUT THE "pOSIQUIET" PADS FOR sTILLEN /bRAKE PROS METAL MATRIX AND WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE. THanks to DJ Dank who suggested Axxis Metal Masters ;the Metal MAtrix, I suspect , are very similar but they are distributed by Stillen which is very near to me. My very subjective and anecdotal results are actually similar to what I've read. I could not lock up brakes at all with Posiquiet pads; with stock pads I could lock em up at 15mph; with metral matrix pads I can lock them at 30 mph on dry pavement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now