Guest mark-oh Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 (edited) hello all. lemme make it short and sweet. big problem with my 90 pathy (i keep cherry) pulling hard to the right when i apply the brake pedal. work i've done in recent past 2yrs ago: replaced RF caliper (me) 1.5 yrs ago replaced ball joints both sides (dealer) 1 month ago replaced master cylinder (me) i took it to my local independent mechanic who has tried several things to no avail....has my clocked at $350 and no fix in sight. work he's done: replaced LF caliper replaced brake hoses resurfaced front discs and replaced pads the truck drives straight okay, has new tires....but some of the bushings are rotted. i'm getting ready to take it to the dealer but i know this is going to be $1000 by the time it's all over.......HELP! any ideas? thanks! Edited November 18, 2005 by mark-oh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 Could be an alignment issue. Has that been done? Also, did you bleed all the brakes, at the wheels, when you replaced the master cylinder? Have you got drums or discs in the rear? If drums, have you checked the wheel cylinders? Possibly one is leaking..... I'm sure someone else will chime in with more suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 Seeing as the brakes have been done recently and fairly completely, we'll assume that is not the issue. That means something is moving when the brake force is applies. Shot bushings may do this. In particular, I'm thinking about the compression rod bushings, although others (control arm, etc) could be part of the issue. I'd go there next... Good luck, and keep us informed please. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 Have the rear brakes been looked at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 I had this happen to me on my 88, finally i broke down and took it to Sears of all places (oh wait I had a CC for them). Over the years of redoing the brakes I had acquired differnent Mfg's of calipers. I was told this was the cause of the pulling. Good thing I needed the works on the brakes. Not sure if that is of any help. I would also suggest a Alignment.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 i am having the same problem also with a '90 but it pulls to the left..... havn't figured it out yet.. but if u figure it out lemme know and visa versa... thnx -SteeevO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 that's a classinc symptom of caliper sticking if it pulls as hard as i imagine. check that.. flush that whole line.. new hoses did you say? if not put on new ones. since you just put in the master i am thinking that it maybe related. did you bench bleed the sucka? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transworldmoto Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 Replace the compression rod bushings. mine pulled for hella long, did all the brake work possible, then replaced those bushings and it stopped. if one is rotted or worn out just a hair more than the other u will feel it pull. sucks really, bad engineering imo. good luck and if that doesn't work im sure u could always buy a new truck! haha jp man, good luck tho. -Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mark-oh Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 tanks all. yup, i bench bled the sucka (master cylinder). i have a feeling you guys are right about the bushings cause ther've been real bad for a real long time. cya mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mark-oh Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 but wait.... lemme ask you this COULD this be caused by mismatched remanufactured calipers? shouldn't the all be the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 (edited) tanks all. yup, i bench bled the sucka (master cylinder). i have a feeling you guys are right about the bushings cause ther've been real bad for a real long time. cya mark It is obviously not an alignment issue given that you stated the car drives true. So you bled the break lines too then I assume, starting at the right rear, then onto the left rear, followed by the right front and fishing up on the left front until all new fluid ran through without any air bubbles? Does it just tend to pull to the right or is it really wanting to turn the car? If it is the latter then I can't imagine the bushes being so worn as to do that. Just a suggestion to see if it is the brake. Whilst driving the car apply enough pressure to the brake peddel so as to lock up the wheels. Apply the pressure slowly. If the right front locks up and the left doesn't then forget the bush idea for now. If it is just a slight pulling, consider that discs that are different in thinkness to each other may be the cause. Other than that, I too would be looking at worn bushings. Edited November 19, 2005 by Vsicks Pathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 i'd say worn bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 but wait....lemme ask you this COULD this be caused by mismatched remanufactured calipers? shouldn't the all be the same? Yes and no and in that order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Good call V6, sticking pistons on one side or mismatched calipers (one with a different piston size or design) could easily engage before the other side, creating the 'pull' effect... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Please post if you find out. One thing I don't generally mess with is brakes, cause if I screw up on a motor, its expensive. If I screw up on brakes, somebody could die. So "leave it to the pros." I've replaced everything in the brake system except the hard lines, including 3!!! times for calipers and pads, all in the last 50K miles. First time was right after I bought the truck, say 105K miles, at Midas :oops:. New pads, calipers, rotors, hoses & fluid. 2nd time was a year and a half later at about 132K miles, the right front acted sticky a couple times then locked up on me on the freeway. I tapped the brakes, and it started to pull. Then as things dragged and heated up or something, it pulled harder and harder till I was at a quarter turn left on the wheel to keep it straight to pull off the freeway. There was a Midas right there, so I dropped it, but *WARNING TO EVERYBODY* their claims of warranty apply to their pads ONLY, and parts are only for like 1 year or less. I was 1 and a half. Well, by the time I found this out, the truck was torn apart, so I bit my rage and said do it. New calipers, hoses, and pads (free- whoopee freakin doo). Then last May, same thing on a warm 90 degree or so day. Back to Midas to raise hell over all the F'd up work, and again turned away, this time 1 year and 2 WEEKS after that the last complete re-do. I'm at their company for the 3rd repair on the same problem, and not even their regional managers and such would budge, not that I would allow them to touch my truck at this point. They must have side jobs at Les Schwab, some more thieving lying bastards. Anyways, to end this long rant, I finally took it to local ghetto Bucky's who have never done me wrong, and everything has been fine since (for now). So I say again, post up if you figure out the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthy Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Could be an alignment issue. Has that been done? Also, did you bleed all the brakes, at the wheels, when you replaced the master cylinder? Have you got drums or discs in the rear? If drums, have you checked the wheel cylinders? Possibly one is leaking..... I'm sure someone else will chime in with more suggestions. Or sezed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Please post if you find out. One thing I don't generally mess with is brakes, cause if I screw up on a motor, its expensive. If I screw up on brakes, somebody could die. So "leave it to the pros." I've replaced everything in the brake system except the hard lines, including 3!!! times for calipers and pads, all in the last 50K miles. First time was right after I bought the truck, say 105K miles, at Midas :oops:. New pads, calipers, rotors, hoses & fluid. 2nd time was a year and a half later at about 132K miles, the right front acted sticky a couple times then locked up on me on the freeway. I tapped the brakes, and it started to pull. Then as things dragged and heated up or something, it pulled harder and harder till I was at a quarter turn left on the wheel to keep it straight to pull off the freeway. There was a Midas right there, so I dropped it, but *WARNING TO EVERYBODY* their claims of warranty apply to their pads ONLY, and parts are only for like 1 year or less. I was 1 and a half. Well, by the time I found this out, the truck was torn apart, so I bit my rage and said do it. New calipers, hoses, and pads (free- whoopee freakin doo). Then last May, same thing on a warm 90 degree or so day. Back to Midas to raise hell over all the F'd up work, and again turned away, this time 1 year and 2 WEEKS after that the last complete re-do. I'm at their company for the 3rd repair on the same problem, and not even their regional managers and such would budge, not that I would allow them to touch my truck at this point. They must have side jobs at Les Schwab, some more thieving lying bastards. Anyways, to end this long rant, I finally took it to local ghetto Bucky's who have never done me wrong, and everything has been fine since (for now). So I say again, post up if you figure out the problem. Might be time to get your hands dirty Mr. Pickles. That whole story just doesn't sound right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 One thing I don't generally mess with is brakes... If I screw up on brakes, somebody could die. So "leave it to the pros." Well, the problem there is that the 'pros' you are talking about are making $15/hr tops and are under pressure to 'wham, bam, thank you' for the chains profits. I was forced to deal with things like brakes as soon as I could drive as I had no $ for a mechanic. Now I think I'm totally competent, more than most shops... I prefer to do my own brakes/bearings/etc (I dont even let shops torque the lug nuts) as like you, I take it seriously. Too serious to let some chump mess with them. It all comes down to experience and a place to work, but I'd rather do it myself and have myself to blame if I screw it up. No blame yet... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Never really messed with brakes, other than pads and stuff, but at this point, the morons have screwed me more than enough times that its time to do it myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Well, the problem there is that the 'pros' you are talking about are making $15/hr tops and are under pressure to 'wham, bam, thank you' for the chains profits. I was forced to deal with things like brakes as soon as I could drive as I had no $ for a mechanic. Now I think I'm totally competent, more than most shops... I prefer to do my own brakes/bearings/etc (I dont even let shops torque the lug nuts) as like you, I take it seriously. Too serious to let some chump mess with them. It all comes down to experience and a place to work, but I'd rather do it myself and have myself to blame if I screw it up. No blame yet... B I agree and the cash thing was the same reason I learned how to do it. Lug nuts? Les Schwab will never torque my vehicles nuts again :X ... they Cross- threaded one of the studs on my Pathy during a brake check, because I was to lazy to inspect them myself I discovered it a week later when I pulled the tires off to replace the brakes in the back. Well a trip back to LS and about 30min of arguing got them to replace the wheel stud. This only after I started raising my voice while talking about how they started the lug nut using the air ratchet.. in a packed customer waiting room Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 if you do the calipers again do both at the same time. you have a better chance of a match and both will be in the same condition.. not one better/stronger then the other. always do new hoses also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 LOL Red, I have been on the side of the road trying to change a tire and end with a broken tire star (not defective as I was jumping on it) trying to get the lug nuts loose. Ever since then I have had to threaten to shoot the service manager in the groin to get them to leave the lug nuts just snug so I can torque them in the parking lot before I leave !! But we digress... You definitely need the same calipers on sides !! If you have that, try 'rebuilding' them. It's more of a cleaning than anything else. There is a post about greasing the slide pins in the Garage/How To section. All of this certainly applies, but I have a hunch it is the bushings... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 LOL Red, I have been on the side of the road trying to change a tire and end with a broken tire star (not defective as I was jumping on it) trying to get the lug nuts loose. Ever since then I have had to threaten to shoot the service manager in the groin to get them to leave the lug nuts just snug so I can torque them in the parking lot before I leave !! But we digress... B i deal with a semi local tire shop once in a while and they always hand tighten the lugs. i still tell them to because i did have to go through breaking lug wrenches.. bastages. -alcohol- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Good call V6, sticking pistons on one side or mismatched calipers (one with a different piston size or design) could easily engage before the other side, creating the 'pull' effect... B Without peding money, you could pull your caliper off, and check the diameter of the piston. If they are ANY difference in the diameter you get an increased area and therefore more "pinch" on the rotor. Even if they are different brand, as long as they the EXACT same diameter i don't see it causing a problem. Is a simple matter of pressure VS area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthy Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 Just thinking ( i know ) have you checked the wheel bearing's for play if one is loose it will push the pad away :secret: . This can be checked with to much pedal travel if this has been brought up before just tell me to shutup :X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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