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Brake Rotor question


Guest Pizzle
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So - I want to replace my front brakes on my 02 Nissan Pathfinder. I know that I'll be putting some brand of Hawk pads on, but I don't know what kind of rotors (ie brand names, places to buy them) to get. I'm pretty new to the whole Nissan world, but not to working on cars. Any help would be appreciated B)

 

Can some one recommend brand names (besides Nissan - I'm not a fan of OEM) and some websites to buy them??

 

Thanks in advance :beer:

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Well - they just don't feel strong. I don't want to go to a brake place and have them re-cut the rotors (they almost feel warped). So - I want to buy new rotors so when I install the new pads, they won't be any problems.

 

Can anyone help?

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I'd suggest just turning the rotors, installing aftermarket pads and braided steel brake lines up front, bleed well, etc. That should give you excellent braking as link as the master cylinder is working properly. As for after market stuff, I can't help. I have a 95 with stock rotors...

 

I'm moving this thread to the R50 forum which may help get you some answers.

 

B

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Tirerack huh?? Well - it's worth a shot. I haven't decided if I want to go stainless steel brake lines or not....but if they are not that much money...I might just pick up a set. I already know that I'm buying Hawk pads, so hopefully the Brembo rotors aren't that expensive.

 

thanks for all the help :)

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R50 rotors are prone to warping. I've had my rotors resurfaced 3 times now, and they're warped again. I've got a replacement set sitting in my garage for whenever I find the time to do them between all this schoolwork and exams.... -study-

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I have steel lines coming for my truck, I have seriously thought about the cross drilled rotors, my rotors only have about 9K on them they should be near new...I just want less heat fade and less spnge feeling. I did the line on my CRX and it was a formidable improvement. here is a link to ebay for the lines...this is a good price.Steel Lines

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I have steel lines coming for my truck, I have seriously thought about the cross drilled rotors, my rotors only have about 9K on them they should be near new...I just want less heat fade and less spnge feeling. I did the line on my CRX and it was a formidable improvement. here is a link to ebay for the lines...this is a good price.Steel Lines

Why are those lines not for the 1999-2004 R50s? Was there a change? I would love a set of stainless steel lines because with the way I drive I need less fading!

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they offer no performance improvement

I was under the impression that they cool better (more surface area) and cleared water and dirt better... :shrug: If they crack easily, then they were either poorly done or the rotor is not strong enough design to allow for it. Cross drilling is supposed to be engineered and supported by stress analysis and thermal conductivity...

 

Just out of curiosity, how many of the R50 drivers that have rotor issues have automatic trannys ?

 

B

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Ok, well I read through most of that... Here is what I noted. You...

they offer no performance improvement.

Them...

For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage.

That stated that you get the same kind of benefits, and the x-drilled are MORE prone to cracking. I must note that the slotting has 6 grooves while the x-drilling has at least 4x as many features !! That makes no sense, of course it would be weaker like that !

Baer both slots and x-drills the rotors in staggered patterns and they are a top race component provider...

Prostop both slots (not through) and dimples (not through) their rotors. I can see the advantage in that easily off hand. But...

Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use

All of these companies refer to "race track" use or "severe usage"... While I'm all for beefy brake components and understand that larger tires increase the strains involved, I highly doubt the Pathys spend much time on the Indy circut, much less generate the extended, high speed braking forces of track cars. As I mentioned before, the x-drilling (or slotting) needs to be engineered, not done in a drill press in the shed...

Personally, I think aftermarket pads, steel braided lines and good brake fluid would be as far as one would need to go, but in light of this discussion, I doubt there is any significant issue with using drilled or slotted rotors from a competent company on Pathfinders for anything they are able to do...

 

From a page in a different book, here is a pict of a factory drilled rotor off of a superbike. 2 up front, with a total weight of 800lbs rated up to 200mph. These cobwebs will put up with that kind of abuse being 310mm diameter and only 5 mm thick at the rotor (the thickest part) with the readable stamp saying 4mm minimum thickness. Now, go look at the rotors on the Pathy... ;)

 

B

post-7-1132188923.jpg

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on my honda crx....here we go again....i have cross drilled and even though you can palm them due to small size...the cross drilled definately gave a few more jabs at the pedal at high speed than the stocker before you could feel the pad smearing.

 

keeping in mind that i use ceramic pads to cut down on wheel cleaning efforts, know that even the "clean" pads had great bite and didn't heat up fast. most of your high rated carbon metallic pads require a certain temp to start biting into the rotor and from then you need the rotor to maintain heat but not glaze the pads due to over heating. i also have never had any issues with either of my 2 sets of cross-drilled for the car. i even had a caliper lock up on the car and cause a smoke screen big enough to hide 2 or 3 cars behind me before i knew that i had to stop for cooling before returning home!!! when i got home...no cracks and in fact i had the rotors resurfaced and am using them yet again.

 

 

.....ps one set was Brembo and one set was Powerstop.....i saw no differences in the two in fact it looked like they rolled off the exact same assembly line (holes were in same places with same distance), who knows maybe they are different and maybe they are not

Edited by 98silverpathy
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I think maybe you hit the nail on the head there 98SilverPathy. The fact that the CRX has such small rotors could be why the cross drilled has worked. Less surface area=less stress on the weak areas caused by cross drilling. Granted, I don't know a whole bunch about the cross drilled rotors as I've never driven a ricer, and have had no braking issues in my Pathy. Logically, though, I think what I've said makes sense......someone correct me if I'm wrong! :D

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