Dowser Posted October 29, 2005 Author Share Posted October 29, 2005 Wow, man, good carnage! Have fun fixing it! Holler to people if you need some better pics of the way things should look. Thank you, and lets seem em. This Chiltons isn't good for sh!t sometimes. All I want to see is how the Adjusters are supposed to look as a final product. Remeber I'm installing Clamini UCA's and obviously the T-Bars, so I want to Crank those Indexs to the max I can allow. And lastly, I asked in another topic if someone could send me some images of what the JGC Springs are supposed to look like After they have been Heated and Bent for maximum lift. Not sure why I can't view 88's images but nothing comes up for me. I'm aware the info at the Damaged Reality site talks about cutting off the piggy back, but later 88 mentioned I might get a little more lift if I heat them and bend them since I'll have a Tire Carrier, Roof Rack, and a ton of Garbage in the back. It also looks Like We'll be moving to Alberta in January so I need to Boogie and get all this crap done in the next few months while my Uncles Garage is handy. Thanks for the help all. Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 It also looks Like We'll be moving to Alberta in January... :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 (edited) Here are somew pics of mine. The first pic is how they are supposed to be tucked. My one anchor hangs down due to a spung T-bar, but thats probly the way yours were before they got greased by a rock. Good Anchor: Droopy: Edited October 29, 2005 by MaritimeMan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 (edited) Here are the ones with the Calmini bars. Do your best to make sure the bolts are recessed inside the cross member. These Calmini's are cranked about as far as I can do it with a standard 3/8s socket. Book says to have 3.03" of the bolt above the nut. MM, I would see about tightening them boys up before you do what Dowser managed to do. If yours is set like his were when he went out. Edited October 30, 2005 by Casey.T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 I will figure out this muliti pic post sooner or later... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted October 30, 2005 Author Share Posted October 30, 2005 Thanks So much for those Pictures guys. I'll make sure these next set are tucked away nice and tight. It's always so much better when you see what they are supposed to look like when attempting a repair. Now as far as the JGC coils are concerned... Is it just as simple as comparing them to the Old Stock Pathy Coils then heating and Bending the Pig Tail to match? Thinking I may have to do my suspension job in 2 parts. The Clamini UCA's and Torsion bars on the first trip since I haven't got the springs modified and powder coated yet. Sigh. Thanks again for the Pics all and I'll keep you posted later when I'm stuggling in the shop. Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 (edited) :o WOW..... that's some good damage for one day. ... good luck! glad you had fun! Edited October 30, 2005 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 Just an Update. Well Today I went to the Garage and arrived there at 11:00 am. Now, Todays mission was to tackle the Rear Springs, and Rear shocks. Wouldn't you know I was in for a surprise. I took a few pictures of the days events and I do mean DAY. I didn't get out of there until 9:00pm. 10 hour Freaking day cause I'm a useless Mechanic. Took off my shocks to find them Beaten Rusted and absolutely Useless. Doing nothing in the way of Shock absorbing. Next, when I managed to actually GET to the Springs, I found out that one of the Stock Nissan ones were actually Broken. haha. I'm sure My BobCaygen Outing had nothing to do with that. Took me like an hour to cut out those freaking Spring Seats out of a 1/4" Mudflap. Was a terrible experience and one I hope never to do again. After all was said and done, Only 1 minor problem. I can no longer get the Panhard Rod back on. It's about 1/2 an inch to short now. No matter How I try to get it on. Raise the back, Lower the back, Nothing. Soooo, No Panhard rod for me I guess. The good news of course is that I've Gained another 3"inches in the back which I'm thinking had to do with the fact I didn't Cut the JGC Coils. I heat the End of it (against EVERYONE in the Shop. All of which Told me I'd be Screwing with their Spring Rate.) then Bent it out to the 4" mark to follow the rest of the Coil. Although Thats not the Easiest task in itself for it never bends how you want it too. At any rate, Here's a few Pictures of the progress. Dowser This is what it looked like While I was taking everything out. Pretty Disgusting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 The Old Shocks vs the new. Hmmmmm Should I keep the old ones. Perhaps I could sell them on EBAY? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 The New Coils after a bit of Paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 This is the replacement Driverside Coils and shocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 Passenger side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 (edited) And this is what it looked like when I put it all back together and Cleaned it all up. Although the Nice BLUE panhard Rod I painted was unable to be in the photo. Edited November 5, 2005 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 (edited) And Finally. The End Result of the HOTROD. Man... look at how much higher the back is haha. Sunday is the All about the Front. Cant wait. Edited November 5, 2005 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 5, 2005 Share Posted November 5, 2005 Hey Dowser... Nice job on painting and cleaning things up, that rear looks new now ! You really need to get the panhard rod back on. General concensus is that it is unsafe to drive without. Your rear axle will have little to keep it from lateral shift, meaning your rear end will be looser than a $10... Well, it will be bad ! Do you have a body lift ? Just the JGC springs shouldn't put things so out of line that you cant reattach it at a bit of an angle. Try loosening the shock mounts, jacking it up and pushing on either the body or axle to get that 1/2" you need... Then post a pict of the angle of it when you have it attached. You may need a drop mount for it. Something like this maybe... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 The Rig has got a 3" BL as well so that's most likely the Culprit. I'm Still not too sure how I'm going to fix this issue. Perhaps making a New Drilled hole in the Main Mount area to the right. I only need to come over about 1/2 inch. I tried a ton of different things to get that thing on. I tried Raising the Diff, Lowering, Losening the shocks, Even tried Using a Prybar to force the bloody thing in there. I can manage to get the Threads into the Joint but the Bolt Flares out at the back of it and I can't get that part on. I tried a few whacks with a BFG too but I don't want to Mash the threads against the inside wall. So pretty much all of the above to no avail. Nobody else has had this problem with a 3" BL and JGC springs? With those puny 31" tires I have on there right now, My Back end sits at 38" to the fender flare and 39" to the body. Only other thing I can think of is trying to find another Panhard Rod thats about 1/2 " longer or Drill next mount holes. What else you got? 2 days left before I have to drive it another 5 hours home and I'd love to get it right before I go. One last thing. Is the Panhard Not considered the rear Sway Bar? Cause I thought it was. And If so, How dangerous could it really be to just leave it off? Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 5, 2005 Share Posted November 5, 2005 (edited) Yep, its the body lift + the JGC springs that is causing this. 88 had to weld/fab an extension on the mount that extends from the body because I haven't made any bolt in's I designed (first post). I'll dig up a link for that in a minute. I know MaritimeMan has the same set up and got his pan hard rod back on. What ? Is ya panzy ?? Sorry. You may be able to re-drill the body mount lower but I'll have to look in the morning to see if it is a good idea. I seem to remember it isn't that easy... The panhard rod keeps the rear axle(or body) from shifting laterally. If you look, you'll see that not much else holds it that direction. Having lateral movement at freeway speeds could get unfunny fast, especially if you have to swerve or something + you now have an even higher CG. Lets not take her for a roll, shall we ?? I recommend setting the truck on the ground, piling the rear cargo with TONS of weight until it sags enough for you to connect the bar while someone else is pushing on the body or you have a jack/come along doing the same thing. That'll get you home and driving a while till you get something proper figured out. I may be able to help... B Found it... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4454&hl= Edited November 5, 2005 by Precise1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 You need the panhard rod connected. It could cause some terrible problems at higher speeds trying to drive with it off. Nobody wants an accident. Reinstall the panhard rod at the upper frame mount as normal, then weight down the back end with either some people or heavy items (at least 200 lbs), leave the hatch open (distributes weight outwards and more rearward) and and then jack up the center of the axle. Lightly grease, then install one of the cone-shaped bushing halves onto the panhard rod lower mount, then slip the bar's end over that and put the other bushing on top. Then tighten the nut and squash those bushings together. It'll straighten out by itself under normal driving. Lower it down and you're done. Re-check the lower nut later for looseness, just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 7, 2005 Author Share Posted November 7, 2005 (edited) Sigh. 88. Perfect information, but I didn't read this until it was far to late. Let me first state how incrediably SCARY it is driving at highway speeds without a Panhard rod on. It was pretty Dreadful. 450 kms of fear based driving in a vehicle with no Panhard Rod, 1 whell completely out of balance, and No Alignment after the New UCA's, T-Bars, and Ball joints. It was freaking aweful. I don't even want to drive it anymore till its fixed. And speaking of fixed, it just never seems to end. I spent 12 hours replacing the T-Bars, T-Bar Adjuster arms, UCA's, Ball Joints and Shocks. And let me be the First to say, This was the worst job known to man. Not only were my T-Bar adjusts bend, So was the Freaking Crossbar the are attached too. It was bent to hell. I couldn't even get the new ones on properly. I had to connect the snapring of the Passenger Side Adjuster Arm to where the dustboot was suppost to go. The Original T-Bars were murder and had to be Torched off to begin with due to Serious Seizing. Also, Heres a mental Note for anyone reading the Chilton's Manual about replacing Lower Ball joints. They are full of sh!t. It's not as easy as they say. They forget to add that you cant slip it out due to the Ball joint hitting the CV boot and unless you take the Brakes, Hub and Rotor's off, nothing is going in or out. Finally, With everything changed, and 12 hours of Cursing. My Uncle who was extremely Pissed off at me for bringing this job to his shop stated that he never wants to see my Pathfinder again for anything. Not even Topping up the Air in my tires. That being said, I'm still in trouble. Late in the day, He put the T-bars in and I told him that the Adjuster arms have got to be at the same level. Being overtired and grumpy at this point I think he may have misjudged and put one side 1 spline too much. The reason I say this is Now that I have Cranked the hell out of my Front end and tucked them inside, My front is higher then the Rear! LMAO. I need to change this Pronto cause every corner of my vehicle sits at a different height. All of these measurements are to the Body not to the Fender Flares. Driver Side Front is 39.50" Passenger Side Front 40" Drivers Side Rear 38.75 Passenger Side Rear 38" Now how does my Rear with Coils change from side to side by 3/4 inch? And Lastly, without a shop to work in or ANY tools what so ever, Anyone in Ontario think they can help me get the T-Bar Situation Straightened out? I can't get an Alignment until this is all fixed up first. Heres a Pic of the Final Result so far. Dowser. Oh, and 88 and Precise one. Have you got that actual Dimensions to those Panhard Rod Mount Extensions? I need to pay someone to make me up one. Hell If anyone on here is interested I'll pay you well for it. At this point I could care less how much its gonna cost me. I just want it done. Let me know if Either of you are interested or anyone else for that matter. Edited November 7, 2005 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 DOH !! You drove it like that !?! Well, I'm glad you made it alright. Now how does my Rear with Coils change from side to side by 3/4 inch? Didn't you make pads or spacers for the springs also ? The bottom seat for the springs is formed to hold the end of the coil in specific orientation. If you have thick pads there and cant see the clocking and one spring is seated correctly, the other not, that could make up a lot of the .75". Can you back out the adjusters at all ? It would just take a little to drop the nose 1". Have you got that actual Dimensions to those Panhard Rod Mount Extensions? I cant remember if that Solid Model I posted was to scale... I'll check tonight. I could draw up a 3 piece weld together version that would be cheap and easy to make. The only machining would be sizing the material, drilling some holes and cutting a slot. I may have to take a few measurements but no big deal. Let me know if you are interested. How much drop do you want ? 3" ? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted November 8, 2005 Share Posted November 8, 2005 I can pull out my calmini Panhard extension and get the basic dimensions..... you may also be able to buy one.... When I was playing with the JCG coils I had to have a friend of mine sit in the back and bounce a little to get it to go on with out the extension, leave the other ends nut loose so you have some wiggle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 8, 2005 Share Posted November 8, 2005 Dowser, when I lifted mine, I had the passenger side front cranked about 1" higher than the driver's side. It ended up tilting the entire truck. If you level out the front, my guess is that the back will settle nicely as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 8, 2005 Author Share Posted November 8, 2005 If I can ever get access to some Jack stands and a Jack while up in this area I'm going to try and take the Adjuster Nut out of the arm and pop the t-bars so that they are even for one, and two, perhaps move them one spline less so I can make sure they end up in the adjuster arm without over cranking them. As far as the Rear Coils are concrened, Ya, I made spacers out of a Mud Flap. Couldn't find a 1/4 inch though so used a smaller standard Truck size. Now as far as the positioning of those go, I put the spacers in first then the seats. then of course the coils on the seats. I could see that the seats held the coils a certain way so I put the coils to their correct spots on the Spring seat. BUT, do the coils and Spring seats together need to be positioned in a certain way under the truck? I never noticed while I was under there. And besides that Holding that Spring Compresser and spring while under my truck wasn't the easiest for moving them around. The Spring compresser only gave me so much lateral movement before hitting one thing or another and once I took the Spring Extractor off the spring, it sat in there pretty snug. Maybe Because I never cut off the Pig tail, I just bent it out. Something else I forgot to mention as well was When I was getting ready to lower the rear Diff, I went to unplug the Diff Breather Hose and noticed it wasn't attached. Turns out it Broke off leaving the nut still in the Diff but with no end. I can get it off thats not a problem but I'm wondering if I went to BobCaygen like that? LMAO Man I hope not. I need to Get in there and clean that all out as well. Also not that I care too much but always wondered why my ABS light was on all the time. Turns out its been Cut off at the Rear Diff. Looks like I'll never be hooking that up haha. Sigh. The more I'm thinking about this the more I'm thinking I wont be able to avoid taking it to a shop and get charged the $66.00 an hour. for probably at least a few hours. Hell. I don't even have Jack stands myself. Come to think of it, I don't even have a Rachet up here Either. :oops: Precise Looks like 3" will do it. Should make it level. Perhaps you can through some Dimensions in Pen or whatever so I can see whats what. Dowser. Once again. If your in the Ontario area and even have some jack stands and a jack let me know. I'll buy ya a case of Beer or whatever so you can watch me hurt myself. And if I actually end up liking you and not just using you for your Jack stands I'll throw in Lunch too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 8, 2005 Share Posted November 8, 2005 Dowser, you're more than welcome to come to my place if you like. I'm in Acton, which is about 10 minutes north of Milton, which, is about 35 minutes west of Toronto, along the 401. Let me know. I have jacks, jackstands, ramps, some air tools, ratchets, sockets, spring compressors, you name it, I've pretty much got it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now