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PathyGig12’s Build Thread


PathyGig12
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23 minutes ago, R50JR said:

Dude, that is awesome! You've done some great normal and preventative maintenance. I just did my alternator and spark plugs a couple of weeks ago...alternator sucked! I have a k&n intake on my frontier and I like the hissing sounds it makes, but I don't like how much dust it sucks in. I got a prefilter, which is basically a breathable sock for the cone. It helps a bunch to keep finer particulates out. Maybe that is something you could look into?

 

A couple of things: Which plugs did you go with? Also, it looks like it's time to flush your brake fluid. 

The plugs were NGK laser platinums, not sure of the part number of those. 
 

As for the break fluid, I think we flushed it a couple years ago but you’re right it’s probably due soon. I’d also like to do a radiator flush at some point. 

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The plugs were NGK laser platinums, not sure of the part number of those. 
 
As for the break fluid, I think we flushed it a couple years ago but you’re right it’s probably due soon. I’d also like to do a radiator flush at some point. 

I opted for the dual platinum tip but I read the performance is the same for the single tip. I was just curious what you chose...I mentioned the brake fluid because it looks dark in the pic. Drain and fill for the coolant is always good maintenance. Burping the system is never fun though.


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2 hours ago, dezm said:

What was your inspiration/reasoning for doing the new intake? It looks great!

Thanks man. Yeah the inspiration was just a desire to clean up the engine bay, plus maybe add a bit more power on the top end. The power increase is almost negligible so mainly the idea was to make it easier to get the intake off in the future without needing to wrestle with that huge airbox and be able to reach the headlight easier as well. Plus it’s much nicer looking now

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was looking at the upstream O2s again and trying to get a good socket for them but I realized that I actually got the wrong ones.... Apparently the connectors are different for the 2001.5 model so I’m screwed because I bought these a year ago. 
 

Does anyone know the pin layout for the connectors? Maybe I can swap the wires on the wrong ones to the old connectors and reuse them

 

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Latest news....

 

I went ahead and updated the exhaust behind the cats. I had a muffler shop install a flow master dual 2” inlet/single 2.5” outlet, with all new pipes and delete the resonator. Now she sounds a lot better, but it isn’t obnoxious or droning in my opinion. 
 

I also installed wheel 1.5” spacers all around to bring the tires to the edge of the fender flares and give the truck a better stance/more stability in corners. So far no issues yet so I think I installed them properly.  This also sets me up nicely for the next time I change tires in a couple years. I should be able to go with 33s and won’t have to change rims, which is nice. It’s possible I’ll need to lose the stock fender flares to be able to tuck them but we’ll cross that bridge when we get to it. 
 

Next up will be Bilsteins in the rear, and I think I’ve decided on the 5100s for now rather than saving up for the 5160s since I don’t do a lot of high speed trails. Then I’ll start saving for a locker in the rear, but I can’t decide whether I want to drop the cash on an ARB set up or just find a junkyard non-LSD diff and throw a cheap lock-right in it? I’ve heard good things about them, but selectable would be nice too 

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9 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:

There aren’t any drop in lock rite’s or such for the rear unless you do an axle shaft swap

Isn’t this the one that fits open R50 diffs? We have 33 splines no?

 

https://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/powertrax-rear-lock-right-locker-nissan-h233b-4-pinion-carrier-pt-3220.html

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30 minutes ago, PathyGig12 said:

Isn’t this the one that fits open R50 diffs? We have 33 splines no?

 

https://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/powertrax-rear-lock-right-locker-nissan-h233b-4-pinion-carrier-pt-3220.html

No, this has been pretty thoroughly delved into by @hawairish - no mechanical lockers fit our rear axles. That one is mislabled. Note that we don't have 4 pinion open diff rears, but rather 2 pinion.

 

Read this:

 

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1 hour ago, PathyDude17 said:

No, this has been pretty thoroughly delved into by @hawairish - no mechanical lockers fit our rear axles. That one is mislabled. Note that we don't have 4 pinion open diff rears, but rather 2 pinion.

 

Read this:

 

Well shoot, that sucks. I guess ARB it is 

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I think only [mention=1343]XPLORx4[/mention], [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] & [mention=42085]Rockit[/mention] have front & rear locked. You might be happy with a front locker & rear LSD like [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention], [mention=41900]PathyDude17[/mention], & myself. If an autolocker works for your uses, the front Lokka is very reasonable - I believe [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention], [mention=42041]jg1123[/mention] & [mention=41900]PathyDude17[/mention] are all running Lokkas up front. I’ll be installing a front ARB when regearing this coming year.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, PathyGig12 said:

Well shoot, that sucks. I guess ARB it is 

Yup, or lokka! I noticed when I read through and researched the lokka, 4WD Systems recommends locking the front end of the vehicle first, especially if its IFS (limited articulation). To each their own- I've seen lots, (probably more often than not) of opinions that trend the other way. 

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2 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:

Yup, or lokka! I noticed when I read through and researched the lokka, 4WD Systems recommends locking the front end of the vehicle first, especially if its IFS (limited articulation). To each their own- I've seen lots, (probably more often than not) of opinions that trend the other way. 

Yeah I’ve always considered the Lokka as a good option but could never bring myself to add another complicating factor to the front end. I guess I may be overthinking it but if I can’t even trust the transfer case to be doing what I expect (because of the manual hubs), then adding a mechanical locker just puts another layer of complication on top. If that makes any sense? 
 

I understand that it’s been proven to work well but something about the traction dependent behavior still makes me worried on patchy snow, especially because my girlfriend drives the rig sometimes and wouldn’t know what was going on mechanically if it suddenly locked up

 

The other side of the equation is that I prefer rear lockers in general, just because the weight is on the rear when you’re climbing hills with technical terrain, especially with how heavy my rear is with all the cargo and tire carrier. I get the logic behind locking the IFS front but I also think it’s a little more risky because the CVs are not as strong as the rear shafts. The other thing a rear locker gets you is a backup option if you snap a CV. You can just remove it, unlock the hubs and you’ll still have a locked rear that can do almost as much as you could using 4Hi

 

Ideally I’d like both eventually, but my top priority is the rear 

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4 minutes ago, PathyGig12 said:

 

I understand that it’s been proven to work well but something about the traction dependent behavior still makes me worried on patchy snow, especially because my girlfriend drives the rig sometimes and wouldn’t know what was going on mechanically if it suddenly locked up

 

 

That alone would be enough to make me weary of the lokka- trying to explain the combination of manual hubs, lokka function, etc etc to the unacquainted would not be fun. 
 

on the topic of uphill climbs- that logic goes both ways if you know what I mean...... if there’s more weight in the rear, the rear is less likely to break traction, and the front is more likely to break traction and need a locker in order to help out the rear end. I like lokka’s FAQ, even though it’s pretty clear you should go the other route, it is informative. 
 

https://www.lokka.com/faq

 

luckily for the R50 communities, it seems like the only people busting axles are the ones who don’t have front lockers.

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26 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:

That alone would be enough to make me weary of the lokka- trying to explain the combination of manual hubs, lokka function, etc etc to the unacquainted would not be fun. 
 

on the topic of uphill climbs- that logic goes both ways if you know what I mean...... if there’s more weight in the rear, the rear is less likely to break traction, and the front is more likely to break traction and need a locker in order to help out the rear end. I like lokka’s FAQ, even though it’s pretty clear you should go the other route, it is informative. 
 

https://www.lokka.com/faq

 

luckily for the R50 communities, it seems like the only people busting axles are the ones who don’t have front lockers.

Haha believe me, I can’t even get her to pay attention long enough to understand what the hubs do! She’s like nope I’m not touching those, so now if there’s a chance of snow I leave them locked and in auto mode so there’s no thinking involved. 

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The driving characteristics with the Lokka are notably different. Personally, I would only use it on a toy, not a daily driver. It makes the front quite heavy feeling & pulling to center. It’s a steal for what you get & it works great offroad but I sold mine off as I’m too used to my ATX14a. You should definitely drive a vehicle with one before adding one. I think it’s best in a part time 4x4 system with unlockable hubs where you can rely on 2WD for all of your street driving. That said, if those conditions match & you have an LSD, it’s the most bang for the buck by a wide margin.

 

Personally, I would have thought rear locker over front but having heard from all those here & in Australia with Lokkas, I have completely changed my mind. It’s particularly useful that “pulling” yourself up a hill is infinitely safer with regard to keeping you in line & avoiding rollovers, etc. than “pushing” up a hill.

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3 hours ago, RainGoat said:

The driving characteristics with the Lokka are notably different. Personally, I would only use it on a toy, not a daily driver. It makes the front quite heavy feeling & pulling to center. It’s a steal for what you get & it works great offroad but I sold mine off as I’m too used to my ATX14a. You should definitely drive a vehicle with one before adding one. I think it’s best in a part time 4x4 system with unlockable hubs where you can rely in 2WD for all of your street driving. That said, if those conditions match & you have an LSD, it’s the most bang for the buck by a wide margin. Personally, I would have thought rear locker over front but having heard from all those here & in Australia with Lokkas, I have completely changed my mind. It’s particularly useful that “pulling” yourself up a hill is infinitely safer with regard to keeping you in line & avoiding rollovers, etc. than “pushing” up a hill.

 

 

Super interesting. Now I’m curious how the lokka works with manual hubs and the ATX14a. Does it actually get ignored by the system when the hubs are unlocked or does it still interfere? I’ve heard it’s supposed to be invisible but since finding out that the front is still spinning while unlocked, I’m not so sure of the effect.

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Super interesting. Now I’m curious how the lokka works with manual hubs and the ATX14a. Does it actually get ignored by the system when the hubs are unlocked or does it still interfere? I’ve heard it’s supposed to be invisible but since finding out that the front is still spinning while unlocked, I’m not so sure of the effect.

Nothing happens with lokka and atx14a with hubs unlocked. It drives normally with no ill effects. I would not install a lokka if you plan on using auto on the all-mode system. The steering is extremely heavy and it wants to self-center, which will probably cause an accident from the steering wheel jerking around. I have a lokka and repacked lsd. A perfect street-able offroad combo imo.

 

Sent from my Pathfinder

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11 minutes ago, R50JR said:

Nothing happens with lokka and atx14a with hubs unlocked. It drives normally with no ill effects. I would not install a lokka if you plan on using auto on the all-mode system. The steering is extremely heavy and it wants to self-center, which will probably cause an accident from the steering wheel jerking around. I have a lokka and repacked lsd. A perfect street-able offroad combo imo.

 

Sent from my Pathfinder

Yeah man that’s what I was thinking. I might be able to handle it but my girlfriend sure as hell wouldn’t. I’ll keep saving for the rear locker for now. Just bought a smittybilt compresor and hopefully it’ll be able to mount in the engine bay and work with the locker. 

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Nothing happens with lokka and atx14a with hubs unlocked. It drives normally with no ill effects. I would not install a lokka if you plan on using auto on the all-mode system. The steering is extremely heavy and it wants to self-center, which will probably cause an accident from the steering wheel jerking around. I have a lokka and repacked lsd. A perfect street-able offroad combo imo.

Just to be clear - I completely agree. The ability to unlock the front hubs & drive in 2WD is essentially indistinguishable from normal 2WD.

Driving it locked however, is extremely noticeable - especially on pavement. It strongly want to self-center & is quite heavy by comparison to OEM.

I use AWD most of the time given our nearly constantly wet roads here in the PNW plus I find AWD superior to 4Hi for gravel & packed dirt, sand, and snow (primarily because it avoids “plowing” or understeer with turns). Actually, my biggest regret with our 5thGen 4Runner is the lack of AWD (you need a Limited to get it).
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Just bought a smittybilt compresor and hopefully it’ll be able to mount in the engine bay and work with the locker. 

That’s a nice compressor. A guy I run with uses one. They are easy to build in to a 2nd battery space in a 4Runner but I’m not sure how you’re going to fit it in the engine bay of a Pathfinder (it’s pretty big). Here’s that 4Runner write-up in case that helps:

https://trail4runner.com/2019/10/22/smittybilt-on-board-air-5th-gen-4runner/
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10 hours ago, RainGoat said:


That’s a nice compressor. A guy I run with uses one. They are easy to build in to a 2nd battery space in a 4Runner but I’m not sure how you’re going to fit it in the engine bay of a Pathfinder (it’s pretty big). Here’s that 4Runner write-up in case that helps:

https://trail4runner.com/2019/10/22/smittybilt-on-board-air-5th-gen-4runner/

Well I ended up going with the 2780 compressor which is the smaller version of it. Should be plenty good enough for my needs and will likely fit a whole lot better. If not, I’ll look into making a small frame and mounting it in the spare tire well with a thin gauge plate beneath it to give some protection from the elements. Or something. I’ll have to first see how big it is. There’s a chance I could also fit it in the cabin somewhere 

Edited by PathyGig12
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I’m thinking here somewhere. Plenty of space now that the airbox is gone. Just need to build a bit of a bracket/platform 
 
ZrLFYdN.jpg

Definitely plenty of space. I’d just watch the vertical clearance for when you close the the hood.

Something that just came to mind is that having an open intake area like that usually does more harm than good because now your engine is receiving completely hot air rather than pulling from quarter panel. Try maybe building a shield. Could be why k&n unit is so expensive...


Sent from my Pathfinder
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