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electrical help


1badqx4
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hello everyone, So when I press the brakes on my 1999.5 qx4 I hear a click then all my cluster and interior light on dash light up and when I let off they go off. unless the lights are on then I don't hear or have any issues. does anyone know what may be causing this annoying problem?

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I have not checked for a cut wire. I did convert to led bulbs and my new rr brake bulb is not working im thinking maybe its because of the leds. I'm not sure what else it could be Shorting out somewhere. Im not good with electrical also I noticed a ground wire from the body to the exhaust is broken I was wondering maybe that could be the problem.,

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It seems pretty clear that the problem is related to the change you made to your electrical accessories, since (I assume) this problem was not present before you installed the LEDs. I would check that the LED tail lamp is installed with the correct polarity. It sounds like you're sending +12v to the tail lamp/marker lamp circuit when you press the brake pedal. As hawairish advised, reinstall the stock bulbs one at a time and see when the issue is fixed to isolate the problem component.

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I fixed it yesterday on my lunch thanks for the reply's though, It was the LED bulbs they are not double philiment. I just went back to stock bulb. I now know my qx does not like external LEDS but all my interior lighting is converted.

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Most LED bulbs don't have a diode in them and will allow current to flow both directions (not an issue with incandescent bulbs).

 

I installed LED's in a motorcycle I had a few years back but every time I would turn on one turn signal all 4 (front and back) would flash. I had to install diodes in the supply wires to each LED bulb to stop it.

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LEDs are diodes. Light emitting diode. They only allow current to flow one directiin, which is why it is so important to get the polarity correct when installing LEDs.

 

Polarity doesn't matter with incandescent, current can flow both ways.

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In my experience with LED's when swapping out from incandescents, all the LED's I have ever used, from cheap to expensive named brands, I have found that as you said they have a polarity in that you install incorrectly and they simply do not work. Install with correct polarity and they illuminate. On many cars (this occurred with a 99 camaro I recently owned) when installed with correct polarity in the tail and turn signals it would cause problems without installing diodes in the supply wires. I found that after the upgrades (on the camaro) when hitting the brakes the front turn signals would illuminate slightly (the brake and turn signal bulbs are separate bulbs). Also the cruise control would no longer work but that occurred because the bulbs did not supply enough resistance.

 

As I stated before I had a Kawasaki Vulcan motorcycle a few years back that had issues with LED's even when the polarity was correct (incorrect polarity and they simply didn't work). They would allow flow back of current through the system causing issues with turn signals. Diodes were required to correct the issues.

 

Many cars will have the same issues the original poster was concerned about even with good quality LED's installed correctly.

 

Most cars these days have a floating ground system that does not play well with LED bulbs without introducing diodes. Granted I am no electrical genius here but only stating what I have found on many cars I have installed LED's in.

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You need to install in-line resisters. Typically 6 OHM but that varies depending on the bulbs. The system is looking for a certain wattage draw that the LED's won't pull. The resisters simulate this. They do get very warm so be careful where you mount them. You need one for each bulb. Usually around $6 for a pack of 4 on Amazon.

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I am not arguing any of that. What I am arguing is the statements that LEDs do not have built in diodes and that LEDs allow current to flow either direction.

 

LEDs are diodes. That is why they don't work if you reverse the polarity. If they allowed current to flow in either direction, then polarity wouldn't matter and the led would always work no matter the polarity. LEDs have very little resistance, unlike incandescent, that is what causes the most problems. You need to install resistors in line to increase the circuit resistance enough that it doesn't look like a short and mess with things. Below are a couple of links I found that provide more info.

 

https://www.carid.com/articles/what-do-i-need-to-know-about-installing-led-bulbs-into-my-car.html

 

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/diodes

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You need to install in-line resisters. Typically 6 OHM but that varies depending on the bulbs. The system is looking for a certain wattage draw that the LED's won't pull. The resisters simulate this. They do get very warm so be careful where you mount them. You need one for each bulb. Usually around $6 for a pack of 4 on Amazon.

 

Normally the resistors are only needed if you use the old style flashers and not a modern solid state flasher to prevent hyper flash on the turn signals. Also many systems that have a "bulb out" on the dash will think the bulb is not functioning because the resistance of the LED is not within the norm that it requires. Then you will also need a resistor. Many newer cars have a similar sensor for headlights making the upgrading of them to HID's more problematic but not impossible.

 

It makes a lot more sense, for safety reasons, to use an inline diode to prevent the issues. Unlike the resistors the diodes do not get hot and present a safety hazard and thy address the issue of current flow.

 

This is quoted from this forums about power bleeding back through the system:

http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/49-vulcan-900/24331-question-about-led-swap.html

 

 

I installed LED signal light bulbs and installed a simple plug and play signal light relay which slowed down the signal rate. However, the rear signals on both sides came on at the same time. I had to remove the incandescent turn signal bulb on the dash in order for the rear signals to operate individually.

 

The LED allows power to bleed from the left turn to the right turn line.

This is why both sides blink.

The fix is the diode setup which stops power from returning from the led.

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Read post 9 and 10 on the link you provided. Power is not bleeding back through the led, this is impossible because an led is a diode. Those two post explain what is happening.

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Read post 9 and 10 on the link you provided. Power is not bleeding back through the led, this is impossible because an led is a diode. Those two post explain what is happening.

 

Yes it is because of a floating ground that it occurs (just as I said in a previous post). Also if you will read post #3 you will see that he removed the dash turn signal bulb which also alleviated the problem which is not really a solution obviously.

 

Since the bulbs don't have a direct ground but instead use the other bulb as a ground allowing the current to flow back through it that the issue occurs.

 

Similar to what the original poster was asking for help on. I don't know the Pathfinders very well yet but I am assuming they have a floating ground system as that would be the only way the dash lights would illuminate when the brake pedal is pressed with the LED"s installed and then the problem vanished when the original incandescent bulbs were reinstalled.

 

It all comes back to the point that if you step on the brake and the dash lights illuminate, or turn on the turn signal and both sides blink, the most cost effective, and safest, solution is diodes. They are cheap and don't get dangerously hot with use.

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