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93 Nissan Pathfinder: Torque specification question


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Hey everyone, me again :)


I have a question about torque values. The FSM says that the water pump bolts should be torqued to 16 - 21 Nm, I have two torque wrenches one that does foot pounds, and one that inch pounds. Is it safe to assume that 18 Nm would be the inch pounds wrench? It is the only one that has such a low value however it seems like I am barely putting any force on those water pump bolts so wanted to be sure and make sure I do not need another or different torque wrench.


Any insight on this would be awesome. Just want to make sure I am torquing them properly.



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You can convert NM to ft-lbs with Google. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. Generally, I only torque critical things, like head bolts, rockers, pinion nuts etc. Valve covers, oil pans, alternators, exhaust bolts, I just make tight while being mindful of the size of the bolt, what material it is threading in and the purpose of it.

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The torque spec for the water pump bolts is listed in the FSM as,


16 - 21 (1.6 - 2.1, 12 -15)


The FSM states that the units are listed a N-m(kg-m, ft-lb)


My problem is that I am not sure if the 12 - 15 ft-lb is inch-lb ? as my ft-lb wrench doesn't come close to that number, and my inch-lb does, but its in inch-lb not the same as ft-lb so I am confused and starting to think that I need another wrench that does very low ft-lb..


When it comes to the waterpump I would prefer to have it torqued properly as the material is aluminum and I would hate to ruin the threads over torquing the bolts.


I will do the conversations here and see. Maybe my inch-lb wrench can get high enough to do those numbers.. I also notices that the wrenches both have N-m and the inch-lb wrench has a 18 N-m setting but it still feels like I am not putting any torque on the bolts... like it is just slightly more than finger tight..



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Hah! Well done on the conversion suggestion.. It was all in my head. the lb-in would be 168 to the 18N-m and I have the correct tool and the bolts are torqued properly!!


Thank you very much!

Edited by MrEviLDeD
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Cool. Yeah, 18nm isn't much more than finger tight. Often, all you need to do is compress a gasket or oring to keep something from leaking. People have the tendency to over torque things, and then deform the gasket or oring and the item leaks so they torque more. I am glad you got it going though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Are you sure on this bit? Looks contradictory.


Let's use it in an example!

1 N-m = 8.85 IN-lbs

10 IN-lbs = 1.13 N-m


16 Newton-meters is what in inch pounds? 16 x 8.85in-lbs = 141 in-lbs according to my torque wrench...math says 141.6

Working backwards from 140 inch-pounds? 140 inch-pounds x 0.113 Newton-meters = 15.82 Newton-Meters

OR 142 inch-pounds x 0.112985 Newton- meters (for exactness) = 16.04 Newton- meters....


Which works out to slightly snugger than hand-choked-up-all-the-way-to-the-socket-with-three-fingers-pulling force!


Or just hit the google!

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Thank you for the replies.


I realized that the two torque wrenches seem to have good numbers are either end, so good low lb-in on the smaller, and good high 260 ft-lb on the larger. however in the middle (where the high of the low and the low of the high should overlap. there is about 25-30 ft-lb gap..


Can I dial my larger down lower than the marks and expect it to torque accordingly? I know the lock ring still locked in increments..


Pardon the silly question. Trying to avoid a third torque wrench to cover the gap between my other two of that makes sense.

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I imagine the wrench is marked about as far as it's accurate, and it's probably less accurate at the far ends as it is. Unless you have something critical that needs a torque spec in between the ranges of your two wrenches, I wouldn't worry about picking up a third wrench unless you've got something in particular that needs to be torqued within that range.

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