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Threading compression tester into number 6 cylinder


Citron
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So, I spent 45 minutes tonight trying to thread the compression tester into cylinder 6. It threaded into the other five just fine. I even threaded the spark plug back in twice to see the angle. I tried every angle I could. Any ideas, other then pulling the upper intake?

 

I know I will get it eventually, have had similar problems on other vehicles, and it usually ends up falling in even though I didn't do anything different. Still would like others ideas.

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i feel that every engineer involved with the development of the vg33 engine should be forced to be on FREE 24h call to replace the #6 spark plug. thereby forever solving the problem of..."well F$*&K them I'll never have to work on it!"

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I had trouble with that too. I think the compression tester hose had a little bend in it, which was making it so the end I couldn't see wasn't going straight into the hole I couldn't see--so fiddle with the hose if if it's got a bow to it. Also make sure there isn't a chunk of something blocking it from threading in. These engines do accumulate crap around the plugs.

I don't complain as much about the #6 plug since I started working on my friend's Chevys. The VG's #6 is a pain but you don't have to access it through the wheel well and there's no knuckle-splitting heat shield in the way. What I want to see is a Chevy engineer getting to the upper bellhousing bolts on an S10 Blazer without a lift.

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I had trouble with that too. I think the compression tester hose had a little bend in it, which was making it so the end I couldn't see wasn't going straight into the hole I couldn't see--so fiddle with the hose if if it's got a bow to it. Also make sure there isn't a chunk of something blocking it from threading in. These engines do accumulate crap around the plugs.

 

I don't complain as much about the #6 plug since I started working on my friend's Chevys. The VG's #6 is a pain but you don't have to access it through the wheel well and there's no knuckle-splitting heat shield in the way. What I want to see is a Chevy engineer getting to the upper bellhousing bolts on an S10 Blazer without a lift.

Yeah, I tried straightening the hose a few times. Guess I will continue and eventually get it.

 

Try removing the passenger head on a 4.6l crown Vic. You need to remove the passenger motor mount and drop the engine down so the valve cover will clear the AC evaporator. I work with a lot of engineers and they seem like decent people, but I think they must be sadist.

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I feel like most people here have never worked on other makes before...The VG is actually extremely easy to work on for an fuel injected motor. Try working on some german cars, or most domestics with their overly complicated crap.

 

You could just pull the intake, chances are the valve cover gaskets are leaking anyway and could be replaced at the same time.

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I feel like most people here have never worked on other makes before...The VG is actually extremely easy to work on for an fuel injected motor. Try working on some german cars, or most domestics with their overly complicated crap.

 

You could just pull the intake, chances are the valve cover gaskets are leaking anyway and could be replaced at the same time.

The majority of my experience is on Fords, I used to work at a Ford dealer. I do hear you about the Germans. One of the worst items I replaced was the coolant temp sensor on a v8 Passat. It is under the intake on the back of the engine. That was another hour trying to thread it in, gave up and tried the next day and it went right in. The second was a tranny cooler line on a jeep grand Cherokee.

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