Jmoor85 Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 So. I'm attempting to replace my clutch. I haven't gotten far at all. The exhaust is so rusty the bolts do not even have threads anymore. Is it a must for the exhaust to be dropped? My wallet is not prepared to pay for exhaust also. It will have to be cut out. Also I have never removed torsion bars and for the life of me can not figure out how to remove them. I took the adjust bolts out which lowers it and removed the c clips. But yeah. I must be missing something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 Okay. So I got one torsion bar off, both drive lines. Looks like I'll have to cut the exhaust off near the "Y" section and replace the piece that connects the driver side to the "Y" and replace the "y" piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 The transmission is really heavy, not joking really heavy! No need to drop it to the ground. Remove the shifter and slide the transmission back. If you have a 4x4, leave the transfer case attached and slide both back. To do it properly you need a transmission jack. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39925-95-4x4-clutch-replacement/?view=getnewpost This might help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 I actually replied to your link a couple days ago so I could refer back to it. It has helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Okay. So I got one torsion bar off, both drive lines. Looks like I'll have to cut the exhaust off near the "Y" section and replace the piece that connects the driver side to the "Y" and replace the "y" piece. Sometimes you have to loosen the bolts that hold the front socket for the torsion bars to slide them out due to binding. Make sure to grease the splines when you put them back in. Sorry to hear about the exhaust, that is the main reason I hate working on them and why I just replaced mine. Yeah, I hear you on the coin part though. Too bad you aren't closer, I'm pretty sure I have a Y pipe laying around somewhere... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Thanks B. Actually that little tip on loosening the front bolts was a great help. Also what grease should I use for the splines? Also would it be the same grease suggested for throw out bearing and Trans splines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 You are welcome Bud, been there... The grease for the splines could be any high pressure/moly grease AFAIC, just like chassis/drive train grease. You just want to make sure it can slide, but still be packed enough not to allow any water/salt intrusion. I'm not sure what grease is recommended for the TOB/splines, it has been 10 years since the last time. I'll have to look in FSM in the morning. I do know you want to be light with the application though! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 It's a white lithium grease for splines and throwout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Thank you, saved me a look! For clarification, the moly grease I was talking about was for the T-bar splines... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 Okay so I have both torsion bars out, both drive lines, torsion bar crossmember and everything disconnected front transmission except bell housing bolts. So now I need to try and save my exhaust. The pipes themselves are not rusted through. The little heat shields are rusted loose though. I'm thinking I can take a sawzall and cut between the y pipe flange and intermediate pipe. I'll cut the bolts in half and worse case I'll have to drill out the bolts on the threaded side and put new bolts in. The gasket should seal any potential imperfection the sawzall leaves behind. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Before you try any cutting (usually should be the last option) find a socket that almost fits the rusty nubs that used to be nuts, then apply liberal heat to the nuts (if you have access to a hot enough torch, get them glowing) smash the socket on there and give it a whirl. You'd be very surprised how often that works. As long as that works, after everything is apart, heat up the flange around where the stud threads in, then use vice grips to remove them. This would be the best way to go about it. New studs, nuts, gaskets and everything will go back together all nicey nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 Yeah I tried the heat method. Stripped the bolt round. I've had a ton of success in the past on other projects. This one seems to just break bolts on every part of car. I was able to cut the bolt with the saw without messing up the flange. The blade is about the thickness of gasket so if fit in there without ruining anything and y pipe dropped down without issue. Also I'm thinking I'll have to drop transmission. I do not have a lit so sliding the Trans back will not give me enough room to get to rear main seal and pilot bushing. I'll try it but not thinking I'll be very successful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Agreed, the slide back method really only works if you are just replacing the clutch parts, hard to remove the flywheel and get to the seal properly that way. The good news is that you can just drop the tranny, slide it back as far as you can, then over to one side. That should give you enough room... Again, that tranny is heavy, so be careful and have someone help with it. I recommend sourcing a tranny jack, or at least a couple of full sized floor jacks, preferably with a tranny adapter. The offset transfer case will make it want to roll that direction so be prepared. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 Hey guys. Any idea about this leak? What's the fix for it? As you can see by the "clean" spot that it is a heavy leave and that is where it is coming from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 That is the transfer case, right? It looks like the seal for that pivot/input shaft is leaking. I have no idea how easy it is to replace, if you have to crack the case, etc. It might be as easy as to remove that top plate to access it. At this point, I'd refer you to the FSM and expanded view drawings. Was the Pathy leaving drips when parked? A lot of that looks to be quite old actually... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 You sure that leak's not coming from the shift boot above it, and just accumulating on the pivot? I can't see any reason why the pivot would go far enough into the t-case to require a seal or o-ring...I'd be certain it doesn't, especially since it doesn't have any fastener (only those at the end of the brackets). I had a similar leak coming from the shift boot on my 2wd MT Frontier long ago. Apples to oranges here, but more likely to be the cause. Don't you guys need to fill it up the t-case a little extra? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 It's possible that's it. I am trying to find someone to help to lower this thing to take a look at it. I'll keep you posted. B the fluid in the middle of the gunk in clean looking and that spot on the tcase is clean/shiny. It did start spitting in the driveway once I started driving it. My gramps usually only drive it twice a month of so. I'm thinking a seal somewhere got dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 There's no seal there. That's a cast in Boss to receive for the pivot pin of the t-case shifter. In other words is solid aluminum keep looking for another source maybe its leak down from someone filling the trans from the top. ... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 The last time I asked people for help changing my clutch, I remember getting no help and bear-hugging a transmission off, and back onto, the engine (2wd Frontier). I wish you luck! One way I usually confirm a leak's location is to completely degrease, scrape, and clean the area, then wait. As B mentioned (and I agree), some of those spots look old. I see the shiny spot you're talking about (and what appears to be a drip on the pivot) and the only reason for suggesting it was coming from above is because that pivot appears to be over an inch wide and round, so it's just collecting anything above it. If you remove the baffle on top the of the transmission tunnel that goes around the shifters, you should have line-of-sight to the boot. If it's greasy on top, the boot is your culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 There's no seal there. That's a cast in Boss to receive for the pivot pin of the t-case shifter. In other words is solid aluminum keep looking for another source maybe its leak down from someone filling the trans from the top. ... Right. When I said I think "that's" where the leak is coming from I was referring to possibly above. I might have some help tonight to drop it. I plan on cleaning it all up along with starter before installing it again so hopefully I'll get more answers. I'll post the results here and hopefully it will help someone else down the road Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 The last time I asked people for help changing my clutch, I remember getting no help and bear-hugging a transmission off, and back onto, the engine (2wd Frontier). I wish you luck! One way I usually confirm a leak's location is to completely degrease, scrape, and clean the area, then wait. As B mentioned (and I agree), some of those spots look old. I see the shiny spot you're talking about (and what appears to be a drip on the pivot) and the only reason for suggesting it was coming from above is because that pivot appears to be over an inch wide and round, so it's just collecting anything above it. If you remove the baffle on top the of the transmission tunnel that goes around the shifters, you should have line-of-sight to the boot. If it's greasy on top, the boot is your culprit. I dropped a WD21 manual tranny by myself, but I rented a tranny jack to do it. Agreed, clean the area as well as you can with a rag and maybe some simple green. You don't need it perfect, just no drips and anything soft should come off as well. Then see what happens,,, As MY1PATH said, that is just a boss for a pivot, and yes, it does appear the leak is coming from above since the bottom of the boot appears wet and well, and the transfer case isn't pressurized, so it isn't as though any fluid would spray out/up. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Hoping to only work 10 or 11 hrs today so I'll have time to drop it. I've worked 41 hrs in three days. Money is good. Plus I love paying more in taxes. I acquired a trans jack and I have my floor jack to use. I'll figure it out. I'll post pics of my findings. If I don't get it down tonight I'll do it tomorrow since I'm only scheduled to work 8 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 Okay so the most difficult part of this job so far is getting the shifter out. The boot was riveted to the floor from factor. There is a retaining ring that the boot goes under and that ring is riveted. Then my pliers were not strong enough to get the clips out. I'll be posting some pics once I get flywheel off. Called it quits last night. Lots of oil residue in bell housing. Hoping I don't find anything too bad behind the flywheel. The clutch disc was down to the rivets. It's been bad for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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