CDN_S4 Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 I ordered 1.5 inch spacers from Rugged Rocks, that were specifically advertised as R50 Pathfinder product. No doubt in my mind these would fit. Bolt pattern 6x5.5. Same as my pro comp rims. Somehow I managed to fit the front ones on. But the rear ones just don't line up quite. As soon as I put the socket in, which fits perfectly into the hole and around the stud, it pushes the spacer off center. But the only way I can tighten them is by having the socket go in. So as soon as I tighten one, all the others now aren't center we and therefore can't be tightened. What's going on here?!? PATHFINDER 87-04 has metric bolt pattern Of 6×139.7, which AFAIK equals the 5.5 inch pattern. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 could just be a poor machining job, my spacers that I got off of ebay look almost the same but no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 No, that doesn't look right, even if there is some optical delusion. What I recommend is to remove the spacers and measure the drum stud spacing with calipers (hopefully you have some). Measure the inner, OD, outer OD, add together, and divide by two. Next, measure the spacer holes the same way. What do you get? (sorry if that is insulting, but I have to be clear and can't remember everyone's abilities) It looks like the ID is large, and the bolt hole spacing is equally off? If the body was not made correctly, and they only positioned the holes off an over sized ID, not true center (fixturing/locating differences), it could happen that way. (machinist here, but I don't know how they made it) Also, do the studs on the spacer line up with the holes in the wheel, or are they equally oversized? (that might answer things) Regardless, get your numbers, and contact SteevO at Rugged Rocks. I can't imagine he'd be OK with it if there was a product quality issue. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Easier way to find on-center distances with calipers: Center DistanceUse this procedure to measure the center distance between two holes of equal diameter.1. Use the inside jaws to measure the diameter of one of the holes. Before you remove the caliper from the hole, press the button to zero the caliper while it is set to the diameter of the hole.2. Still using the inside jaws, measure the distance between the far surfaces of the two holes. The caliper reading is the distance between centers of the two holes. (Taken from http://littlemachineshop.com/instructions/usingcalipers.pdf) You can use the same trick on the wheels studs, just use the outside jaws, zero it out, then measure far surfaces of two studs again using the outside jaws. Though...I'd just be comparing them to each other and seeing how they fit. You should be able to bolt all of them together in a stack without issue. If it seems obvious that the 3 holes opposite of a tightened lug nut aren't centered, then the bolt-hole diameter is just wrong. Judging by your pics, the diameter is too large. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 That is assuming digital calipers though, and doesn't account for if one hole is larger than the other, but it is an easier method if adding two numbers together and dividing by two is too complicated. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Ok ok, fair enough B! Adding is easy, but division... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 I don't have a caliper so I just used my Mk1 eyeball. I laid a wheel down flat and simply put the spacer over top in line with the holes, with the naked eye it is visible that the holes aren't perfectly in line but off by just a bit. Even though I got the front ones on, I removed then again because they were causing my steering wheel to vibrate again. That alone means they aren't perfect. I wrote steeve at RR, just waiting to hear back. I was under the impression their products were high quality. We'll see what he says. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 I don't see Steeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeevo being to fond of a bad product having his name associated with it. I'm sure he'll make it right (since I already see you've contacted him ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Ok ok, fair enough B! Adding is easy, but division... *snort* (just experience) I don't have a caliper so I just used my Mk1 eyeball. I laid a wheel down flat and simply put the spacer over top in line with the holes, with the naked eye it is visible that the holes aren't perfectly in line but off by just a bit. Even though I got the front ones on, I removed then again because they were causing my steering wheel to vibrate again. That alone means they aren't perfect. I wrote steeve at RR, just waiting to hear back. I was under the impression their products were high quality. We'll see what he says. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Main reason for calipers/measurements is then you are talking hard numbers, bolt hole circles, etc. Just takes all subjectivity and opinion out of it... I do highly recommend you (and most everyone) get a set of dial calipers though. Perfectly adequate ones can be had for $20-25. I recommend dials for beginners/only pair, and only 6"; you wouldn't know what to do with the rest... You do enough work on things that you'll find yourself reaching for them all the time. In the meanwhile, you can borrow one of mine... Funny thing is, I found two more when I was putting them away... The one on the left is older than I am, made by the patent holder/engineer who co-founded Etalon tools out of Switzerland. WW2 era Swiss quality, baby (paid $10 for them in a ReStore). Also, don't drop them, like the second from the right. Beam and rack is fine, but dial is gone and don't know about the gears. Winter project... Anyway, everyone, get a cheaper set of 6" dial calipers! They pay for themselves rapidly... B Side note for machinist humor: A good machinist calls calipers 'guessing sticks'. The calipers I dropped have a ground finish: They hit the ground and are finished. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 (edited) Just to add on what B said, I have seen a video recently about calipers that opened my eyes a bit... Just wanted to share with those (like me!) who did not know about the low battery issue that cheap calipers have...That could explain a few things that happened to me in the past.... **** warning ... crude language in the video *** Cheers. <youtube> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnDype-j3hk Edited August 11, 2015 by fleurys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Hahahahahaaa!! Still laughing! He is 100% right though. If you see a MightyToy (Mitutoyo) 6" caliper under $90 new, it is fake or a scam. If you see a Mightytoy 6"caliper used for under $50, it is damaged, fake or a scam. I got lucky buying a pristine set from a member here for $50, but he failed to mention that the display would sometimes shut off and the calipers would re-zero mid measurement. BAD NPORA MEMBER!! Good news is that they were to lazy to even look at things, and all I did was clean the tiny bit of corrosion off of the battery contacts, and I have another flawless set. (4th from the left) Mitutoyo is basically an industry standard, and the 3rd from the left is a set I have used for almost 20 years. That are easy to use, feel right, and as accurate as you could want from guessing sticks. I paid $150 on sale back then, but they can still be had for under $200.They will also run about a year on one battery. I have other tools, like Brown $ Sharpe micrometers that can almost measure your blood sugar level, but with calipers, I look no farther than the MightyToys. Something I noticed in the video is the buttons. MightyToy has firm, sleek buttons that can easily pushed, but don't get in the way otherwise. (not large or proud) The counterfeit calipers have those oversized, protruding buttons, so that is something to watch for as well. While caliper #3 might cost/be worth all of the others, #5 is a Harbor Freight special for $40 that is going to be used as the X axes DRO on my mill. Notice that it isn't powered up? Because I don't leave a battery in it, or it well be dead next time I open the case. Like the guy proved, the cheapos use more energy shut off than the quality ones do operating, much less the display issue. The short of the long, just get dial calipers or go for the MightyToy electronics and expect to pay for them. Don't mess around in between... What did Steeeeevo say? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 Steeeeeevo has not responded to my email yet! And to make things more confusing, I stacked and screwed all 4 calipers together and they are all identical. Yet the front 2 fit and the rear 2 don't! All my 6x5.5 rims however fit perfectly. Scratching head... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Hahahahahaaa!! Still laughing! He is 100% right though. If you see a MightyToy (Mitutoyo) 6" caliper under $90 new, it is fake or a scam. If you see a Mightytoy 6"caliper used for under $50, it is damaged, fake or a scam. A lesson to crooks: don't sell fake Mitutoyos for under $90. Steeeeeevo has not responded to my email yet! I think Steven's more of a phone guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 (edited) Don't buy Kobalt (Lowes) From frequent use I will get a flashing screen in under a week. (low battery alert) and they tend to loose their Zero.not re-zero but totally like random lost... how do I have a 1" gap that reads 3"...This is my 3rd one under warranty and I have been ignoring the flashing screen for months because it the battery still tests good. Genuine Mitutoyo, I've used for I don't know how long (years?) before changing batteries and never had any other issues. Edited August 12, 2015 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now