Run of bad luck

[TutorN1]

Well due to have car trouble with my wife's car I've been driving it to work to get the shop to look at it (Chevy recalls).

Yesterday my wife was driving my Pathy around homes and it just died. She cranked it back up, & after about 10mins it did it again. Cranked it back up again, kept her foot on the gas some and it went on. Drove it about 4-5 miles and it quit again. This time it didn't crank.

 

So had to get it towed, and went by this morning to look at it. Got there the key had been left on, so it was dead as dead could be. Plus I'm afraid when they towed it they did on a pull behind, belt was wrapped around wheel.

 

So yesterday wasn't that great!!

 

Now to the problems at hand, first thing to check will be the fuel filter, then if it doesn't work the fuel pump. What would be next up stream from there?

 

Also what do I need to keep an eye out for on the transfer case after being towed?

[Quaintbucket]

I would check to make sure you have gas first. Happened to someone I know.

 

If it's not cranking, I would check the battery, the starter, and the alternator.

 

Then check the fuse for the fuel pump.

 

As for the transfer case, I would go after the towing company.

[jyeager]

Since you weren't driving it, you should first check to ensure it wasn't overheated...as in a water pump failure. If so, your engine is destroyed! So check your oil and check your coolant for any signs of cross contamination which would be the case if it had overheated and seized due to thermal expansion.

 

After ruling that out, I need to ask....when you say it wouldn't 'crank', that says that the starter wouldn't even turn the engine over. If the starter would turn the engine over, but it just wouldn't catch and run, then you should not say that it "didn't crank".

 

Since it stalled 3 times, but restarted 2 times the initial problem was not a problem with battery voltage or the starter. If it truly wouldn't CRANK after that 3rd stall, then you probably do have a seized motor.

 

But if you stated that wrong and it just wouldn't restart the 3rd time, then you should consider fuel filter, fuel pump and ignition coil.

 

Assuming it cranks, a simple way to figure out if the problem is fuel or spark is to get some starter fluid and spray it in to the intake while cranking it. If it lights up and runs for a few seconds, that confirms a problem with fuel delivery. If not, that confirms a problem with spark.

 

 

[ferrariowner123]

All of the above are good suggestions.

 

My usual list of things are the common ones I somehow always get.

 

For me it's electrical.

 

I start with battery, if it has good voltage, move on to connections. Checking for corrosion, loose terminals, rust, everything . if that's good. I start testing for failed components like starter. I just had this happen so I tried bump starting, and sure enough it fired right up. But then you can go from there. Checking for spark. Checking spark plugs. Check cap and rotor. Then move on the fuel system.. Listen for the fuel pump to prime, when you turn the ignition on, change fuel filter. And then you get into the head duty stuff like what was listed above. Checking for engine failure.

 

So yeah, let us know what you find out.

 

-Kyle

[TutorN1]

Thanks for the input guys!

Hey Kyle, how things going for ya?

 

Sorry for the miss leading statement, didn't think about it. It would try to crank. Had good power, and spark. I asked the same thing, I wasn't there when this was going on so I can't say how it sounded. Went by this morning before work to see, but someone had left the key on, so no spark for now.

 

Plugs are good I just did them last week. My farther-in-law, I do trust on cars, said it was acting like it wasn't getting gas. Hadn't thought on the fuss for the pump. I'll check that first.

 

As for the tow worries I've got to keep it civil, the company is family. Can't complain about a free pick-up every now and then. My transfure is the manual version. What's the series number, T10?

 

Again thanks for the input!

[gv280z]

Do R50s have one coil that provides voltage to a distributor? If so, I'd like to tell you a little tale about what happened to me in my wd21.

 

The family and I were headed down the freeway one morning, and I was accelerating hard up to about 90 I guess and then all of a sudden the engine died, we coasted to a stop and I began to diagnose: Engine temp fine, engine turns over when I try to start, have got plenty of juice in the battery, and plenty of gas, there's no oil / water / steam pouring out of it...no mechanical failure to be detected anywhere and timing belt was replaced last year, checked all fuses and relays, all in good shape, nothing fried. Got towed to a mechanic near my house, he goes in there and turns the key...engine starts and runs.

 

Apparently the coil had overheated and just quit. It was an MSD blaster. So naturally I pulled it and stuck the oem factory coil back on and that was it. No further problem. Your deal sounds similar, did you ever try to start again after a couple of hours?

[adamzan]

If the transfer case was in neutral all should be well. But if they only put the transmission in neutral then there could be damage to it depending on how far it was towed. I wouldn't care if they're family if they ruined it they owe you a new transmission.

[Quaintbucket]

X2 what adamzan said. I have had family ruined my stuff before (thankfully not expensive) when they meant well. There are fairly good diplomatic ways to deal w it and still come out whole.

[TutorN1]

Ok, finally had a chance to look at it today

 

Is getting spark, even tried to crank and run for a second or two, but once all the fuel was got in quit. Checked the fuel pump fuse it good, also changed the filter. The old one was BAD stopped up! So leaves me two other options that I can think of now, the pump itself, or the ignition coil.

 

They're both factory parts so that puts them at 14-15 yrs old.

 

I know where the pump is, and I think that's the problem, but where is the ignition coil?

 

Thanks in advance

[Quaintbucket]

I don't understand. The fuel filter was badly plugged up or...?

 

I personally would do the fuel pump before the ignition coil but that's just me...

 

Are you sure your fuel lines aren't clogged? If the filter was plugged up, I can see some sediments sitting in your fuel line buggering it all up.

[TutorN1]

Fuel pump is good, let's just say the back seat is going to smell like gas for alittlebit .

 

Filter was stopped up to the point of no air going through at all, even with a blower.

 

The coil I just don't know where it is. But I guess that's next on the list.

 

When it gets fuel it try's to run, just can't find what's stopping it from moving.

 

Any ideas?

[Precise1]

Ok, finally had a chance to look at it today

 

Is getting spark, even tried to crank and run for a second or two, but once all the fuel was got in quit. Checked the fuel pump fuse it good, also changed the filter. The old one was BAD stopped up! So leaves me two other options that I can think of now, the pump itself, or the ignition coil.

 

They're both factory parts so that puts them at 14-15 yrs old.

 

I know where the pump is, and I think that's the problem, but where is the ignition coil?

 

Thanks in advance

 

If it is getting spark at the plugs, the coil is good. (it is in the dizzy)

So if the old filter was plugged, would it run with the new one installed? I'm not sure if you can safely blow out the fuel lines (back to the tank/fuel pump), but checking the fuel pressure at the injectors/fuel pressure regulator seems like the next step to me.

 

B

[TutorN1]

Well after checking all I could on the fuel I found all of it was good no clogs.

 

Went up to the parts house, got them to come pull the codes. It's showing

Code: p1320

 

Ignition Control Signal Circuit Malfunction

CKP sensor or CMP sensor has failed

CKP or CMP signal is erratic or missing

Ignition coil condenser is shorted

Ignition coil primary circuit is open or shorted

 

Possible fixes

Replaced ignition distributor assembly (replaced rotor & cap today)

Repaired distributor wiring

Replace ECM

Replace ignition coil(s)

Replace plugs (done a week ago)

Cleaned engine wiring harness connectors (cleaned best I could with a rag and brush)

Replace ignition module

 

That's what I've found out this afternoon. I've replaced, cleaned, & checked all I can think of.

Both sensors, and ignition coil are dealer parts, and can't check on them till Monday anyways.

 

Any info on the problem? Maybe a quick fix that I'm missing?

[TutorN1]

Went and bought a new distributor on my way home today. Swapped it out and it fired up the first time, is running better than before. Was idleing at 1100-1200 rpm before now at 800rpm.

[TutorN1]

Got the new one in and it's doing great, but my check engine light is on now. Went by to get the code pulled again to see if there was something else after it was running that was showing.

It's still showing the same code tho p1320. Is there a rest that I need to do or is there something else wrong?

[Precise1]

Have you cleared the code and it comes back? (not sure by how you said that)

 

B

[TutorN1]

No I haven't cleared it yet, I was thinking it had just come on when I cranked it after I put the new distributor on. I got to asking my wife about the day it quit, and she told me she thought the check engine light had been on sense we bought it.

So it's not new it's from when it went out.

 

I'm going to go get it cleared this week, it just needs to be rest is all.

 

Can you unhook the battery to clear the codes?