CDN_S4 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 One thing I noticed in XPLORx's pics of those Calmini prototypes is that they rattle-canned a few areas to highlight their parts. On their front bumper, I noticed they blacked-out the washer fluid bottle. That's an option, too, I guess. I hear you on the tire carrier. I have an idea for a carrier as well, though I may take an Xterra-like approach and only build a center section, while cutting the bumper cover to create end caps. This has been my inspiration: Full thread at ExPo: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/6760-Casper-s-Xterra-Build?p=419803#post419803 This Xterra!!!!! Amazing build, wish there was even half this much aftermarket support for the Pathy! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 When you run the defroster , I always thought it worked along with the AC system so that dry air would hit the windshield ? IF your AC compressor works lol. Mine hasn't worked since I've owned it. Definitely a summer problem. I charged the system and it would run cold for a day, the next it was blowing hot air again. The dealer said it was my compressor. They aren't too expensive to buy but for some reason are super expensive to ship! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Haw is correct, that hose is the breather for the rear axle, though it shouldn't be open ended. It should have a breather cap on it and it was run up inside a "crossmember" of the unibody, I'll look tomorrow when I'm under one of mine to see what it's held in with. When you say water it trapped in the resonator, am I correct in assuming you're talking about the one at the tail end of the exhaust? 1)There shouldn't be any water trapped in there. There should be a drain hole in the lowest area of the case on either the front or rear face (flat sides that pipes go in/out of), might be clogged. 2)Running the ac or defrost will not cause added moisture in the exhaust, there is a condensation drain tube that runs down the firewall and exits inboard of the framerail behind the right front tire. Yeah, depending on how they extended it, they may or may not have terminated the tube. The way I've seen it done (and would do it myself) is to try to re-use the OE breather at the end, and then install it upright. Though, I don't think the rear breather tube is OE...is it? My Frontier and Pathfinder have the same type... And oh, that resonator Whenever I hear the word on our trucks, I think of some plastic piece of garbage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 This Xterra!!!!! Amazing build, wish there was even half this much aftermarket support for the Pathy! Yeah, that X is dope. He even has a Gobi rack...I was dead-set on getting one of those for my Wrangler the other year; excellent product. LOL, aftermarket. Don't get me started...we're the bastards of the Nissan and off-road community. We're lucky to get back-handed in the face every now and then. You know we're off the radar when Smittybilt won't even fart a cheap tube bumper for us. I am hoping to change that a little this year. I've got some things I'd like to build for mine, with plans to make them available for others. The big items include a low-profile roof rack, rear bumper/carrier, and rear cargo rack. I'm also still working on making 2.5" SFD components available. There are also a few other utility items I'm considering, including made-to-order accessory panels for mounting "command center" items under the radio, like switches (OE or aftermarket), mounts (RAM or AMPS patterns for GPS, phone, etc.), socket-like accessories (USB sockets, voltmeters), or even 1-1/4" gauges. The one that I'm building for myself will allow me to mount my GPS on a ball, a dual-USB socket (1A/2.1A), and a 110V outlet. I like have power options; 12V sockets are antiquated...I've already replaced the one on the dash with a USB/AUX pod for my radio. Anyway, hopefully there will be some items to write about on your build thread in the future Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Sounds like you've got some good ideas going there, interested to see how they come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Hawairish, that sounds great! We definitely need more people with skills to start making our own stuff and sell it to this community. I would definitely get a 2.5 subframe drop. In a way having a truck that by now is this cheap, has barely any AM support and is less complicated that many modern cars is brining out the creativity on us. I have never cut, punctured or otherwise altered parts on a vehicle before. I would either do normal maintenance / repairs or replace OEM parts with go fast parts. On my cars that is. I have to admit I enjoy working on it like this, but it is frustrating to not now and then just buy a nice part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 In a way having a truck that by now is this cheap, has barely any AM support and is less complicated that many modern cars is brining out the creativity on us. I have never cut, punctured or otherwise altered parts on a vehicle before. I would either do normal maintenance / repairs or replace OEM parts with go fast parts. On my cars that is. I have to admit I enjoy working on it like this, but it is frustrating to not now and then just buy a nice part. Exactly. I'm big into making things bolt-on. I plan to produce community-driven products; things that can be made from scratch (with provided instructions, parts lists, files, etc.), can be bought as unassembled pieces, or can be bought complete. Community feedback will be huge in revising, adding new features, or designing new products. And although I will make/sell whatever products I can, I will also encourage others to make/sell the products, too. This is more about promoting R50 ownership than it is about profiting; the market (if one) will guide itself. I also plan to be a snob and limit all products to the R50 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 FOUND THE KNOCKING/RATTLE!!! I'm so happy now. The rear shock wasn't tightened enough so it had some room, hence the knocking of metal on metal sound. Phew, huge sigh of relief. Also received new iPad mount. Using it for my back up monitor. This one is much sturdier than the first one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 I also plan to be a snob and limit all products to the R50 Especially that!! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 FOUND THE KNOCKING/RATTLE!!! I'm so happy now. The rear shock wasn't tightened enough so it had some room, hence the knocking of metal on metal sound. Phew, huge sigh of relief. Also received new iPad mount. Using it for my back up monitor. This one is much sturdier than the first one. Awesome. Upper shock mount? Maybe I should check that, too... I don't recall having a rattle until I did all my rear suspension work. Wow, that's a big monitor! How much time do you spend backing up?? Thought about one of those rear view mirrors with built-in monitor? They sell some that just clip onto your existing mirror for dirt cheap (<$30 US). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Yeah it was the upper shock mount. I had initially put it on with the impact wrench and when it stopped going on I left it at that. Must have not paid attention as I was able to crank quite a bit more with my breaker bar. The monitor is pretty big lol, it can actually also display other sources if I hooked any up. I picked this up on kijiji for $40 so really can't complain. Was new in box still! And it sends a wireless signal so no need to run a wire all the way through the car. I have a trailer and a boat so I like to see when I'm backing up, which on boat launches can be quite a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Yeah, depending on how they extended it, they may or may not have terminated the tube. The way I've seen it done (and would do it myself) is to try to re-use the OE breather at the end, and then install it upright. Though, I don't think the rear breather tube is OE...is it? My Frontier and Pathfinder have the same type... And oh, that resonator Whenever I hear the word on our trucks, I think of some plastic piece of garbage. Both my Pathfinder s (96&01) and my Titan have rubber hoses from the tube on the axle run up to the frame, bought my Titan and the 01 Pathfinder new and they were already there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Hmmm, you're right. Looks like the previous owner nixed it on mine for some reason. I see the parts in the rear axle diagrams for my VIN. Makes sense it'd be there, too, since the front axle definitely has a breather tube. I have been meaning to put a tube on it anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Talking of aftermarket support, and since the 3.3 is used in the older Xterra's too, was wondering if the K&N Xterra's intake will fit on the PF? It seems like it should. I've come a lot of home made intakes on this forum for this very reason, but has anyone done the Xterra intake? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 *correction* ...come across a lot of home made... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 But for $300 bucks, is it worth it? Weapon-R has a system for half that made for 3.3L PFs (p/n 804-118-101, http://www.amazon.com/Weapon-R-804-118-101-Dragon-Intake-Polished/dp/B000ED23OO). Slap a conical K&N on it, and make a simple heat shield, and boom...K&CDN_S4 CAI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Yeah the price tag is definitely hefty for what you get. I've had bad experiences with intakes, can't say I ever really noticed any gains or has mileage improvements. Just better sound. Any idea how the drop in filter does on the 3.3? Some intake systems are best from factory, but a K&N drop in can help. Not sure if that applies to this motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 I stopped messing with intake stuff a while ago. My past few vehicles (08 WRX, 08 Wrangler) and now PF have had drop-in K&N filters, and that's about it. They've always felt better (sound improvements aside), though maybe it's just all in my head. I've also always reset my ECU when installing it, so that the ECU can detect any changes in air flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Interesting. How do you reset the ECU? Battery disconnect? What about throttle body intake spacers? Worth it? I have intake manifold spacers on my S4 increasing the total volume and reducing temperatures, and I notice they made a difference but that's quite different from essentially adding an inch to the intake tube. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Assuming the pattern isn't changed on pre-facelifts, it's basically the pattern to pull the codes, but with one additional step (that escapes me). I think it was just turning the key to OFF (starting the truck sets it into O2 sensor test modes). This is the fastest way to reset the ECU. But I think the battery can be disconnected for some length of time. After the ECU is reset, there is a driving pattern that needs to be performed set the ECU's "readiness state", but it's usually addressed over several prolonged driving events. (But in my case, I needed to do the pattern to pass emissions.) It was a lot different on my 98 Frontier...it required turning a tiny screw (potentiometer) in an access hole on the ECU itself. I eventually broke the screw off while it was in diagnostic mode...not a good thing. I conveniently had a thumb-wheel potentiometer handy, and soldered that in...it made setting the modes a breeze going forward. That's when I also figured out that the truck was capable of learning. If I flogged it after the reset, I had much better throttle response (even under casual driving), but lower MPG regardless of my driving style. If I drove moderately after the reset, MPG went way up (4-6 MPG, easily) for casual driving, but it felt dogged under WOT. The air filter on the KA24DE is also atop the engine/TB, so it just has a long tube going to the resonator (re: my cheap plastic reference previously). I pulled the resonator, re-mounted the air temp sensor (the MAF is integrated into the TB), and reset. I never put a K&N on that truck; just pulling the resonator and resetting the ECU was noticeable enough (and $50 was better spent on alcohol back then). Not sure about TB spacers. My impression from the inter webs is that they weren't very beneficial. I recall a lot of chatter about them for both the KA and VG Frontiers back in the day. There might be some logic to reducing any turbulence on the air, but I think it's more pertinent for forced-air vs. NA setups. Seems to me that some sort of velocity stack would be more promising than a spacer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 I wouldn't mind trying the spacer, but not willing to pay $100 for it. I'll see if I can get a piece made to extend it. Just wondering if you need a cone filter for it as it wouldn't fit between the air box and the intake. I would just want a little more power out of this motor. I'll get to the exhaust when it needs to be replaced, I'll look into a custom setup, better flow, bigger diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 I'd think there's enough give for a 1" spacer...one I saw on eBay showed it with stock tubes. Pull the trigger on a VG33ER swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Haha yeah....hard to justify for a truck I only paid $3G for lol. But if I ever come across a local opportunity from a totaled ER that might be a game changer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN_S4 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 So I went to the dark side... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 WTF!!!! Are you serious? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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