TutorN1 Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 I'm new to wrenching on these, but I've got the same type of shake in the front. Starts at 60 quits when you get close to 70. If you hit a bump at any speed you can feel it. (First time it happened thought there was going to be a quarter size hole in the seat when I got home!) Since then have packet bearing, replaced cv shafts, & had it rotated & balanced a few times. So far nothing has helped it, but it was all things needing to be done anyway to get it back up shape. Just bought a set of shocks & struts. Getting them put on today, and will see if it makes a difference. The ones that were on it were the factory set from 14yrs ago, with 165k on them. It's just my two cents, but check your struts. Can't hurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Thank you, I'm interested in seeing if that helps. I replaced my struts last year and only have 30k on them, but it's possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TutorN1 Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) Keep in mind the struts that are offered for our truck are not totally ment for off roading, unless you go will ranchero or others that are built for it. That's why I went with Monroe's, they have lifetime replacement warrenty. I should pick mine up this afternoon & I'll let ya know. Edited March 18, 2014 by TutorN1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00PathfinderSE Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 The Monroe sensatrac struts I used to have on mine were horrible. KYBs are OEM and are great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 Yes, I have KYB and they seem to be the best option for our rigs. No visible problems with them, and I even just had them out when installing my lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TutorN1 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Looks like I'm going to be going with KYB myself. I went to pick mine up, & turns out I either ordered the wrong set, or they gave me the wrong set. I've got a full set for 96-99 of 11/98. I needed 99 of 12/98. So it will be awhile before I can say if they helped or not. Thanks for the info on the Monroe shocks & struts. Truth be said they were my second choice anyways. Just was little cheaper, but had good reviews. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 If you cant get the KYBs I picked up the Gabriel Ultra at Autozone. Good price and they have taken towing abuse and off road like Champs! Sent from my Moto X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TutorN1 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 I priced the Gabriels, just couldn't find a lot of feedback on 'em. Found a full set front and back of KYBs on Amazon for $190 with free shipping. Everything around here is running $100 +/- each for the 99-01. Then still have a day to two day wait. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 I found most of the feedback about em on the diesel forums. Like anything else good and bad. But for my truck it was $60 for both rears and $80 for both fronts. Plus at Autozone they give you a limited lifetime warranty. So if one blows a seal etc then I can just swap it out locally. Sent from my Moto X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Back on topic. Karmann. Dont you have unlockable hubs? If so that should rule out CVs and the diff bushings. If you don't. Then I would check your CV axles. Whats to say that creap of a mechanic didnt tighten em down or seat the hub and bearings right. Especially when he did the LCAs. Sent from my Moto X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 Back on topic. Karmann. Dont you have unlockable hubs? If so that should rule out CVs and the diff bushings. If you don't. Then I would check your CV axles. Whats to say that creap of a mechanic didnt tighten em down or seat the hub and bearings right. Especially when he did the LCAs. Sent from my Moto X Thank you, and correct I have the manual hubs. How would you suggest I check? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick13 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) I was thinking along similar lines. I'm guessing that you'd just disengage the hubs and check for the wobble doing whatever makes it wobble (specific mph, type of road, turning, braking...) and see if it's repeatable. Maybe that's not your question...sorry. My thought last night when thinking about this, was regarding whether the bearings weren't seated when the bearing lock nut was put back on. There is a procedure that seats the outer bearing (torque it to a spec) and then back it off to practically 0 lb-ft (IIRC). A proper "bearing socket" can make that really easy. If you don't have one of those, I think Adv Auto (or the like) might have a kit you can borrow. Edited March 19, 2014 by Rick13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 did you try removing the front driveshaft ? if not do this while having unlocked hubs... if it still does it, then it`s somewhere in your wheel bearings, wheels, or tires.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 I was thinking along similar lines. I'm guessing that you'd just disengage the hubs and check for the wobble doing whatever makes it wobble (specific mph, type of road, turning, braking...) and see if it's repeatable. Maybe that's not your question...sorry. My thought last night when thinking about this, was regarding whether the bearings weren't seated when the bearing lock nut was put back on. There is a procedure that seats the outer bearing (torque it to a spec) and then back it off to practically 0 lb-ft (IIRC). A proper "bearing socket" can make that really easy. If you don't have one of those, I think Adv Auto (or the like) might have a kit you can borrow. Thank you, though this problem occurs with the hubs unlocked around 60. I suppose I should have made that more clear. I'm putting in new bearings next week (myself) and seeing If that will fix the issue. Regarding the half-shafts, I have not removed them, as my thinking is that since they aren't spinning with the hubs unlocked, then the issue shouldn't be them. Thank you all for offering so much advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Correct. With your hubs unlocked your CVs wont be rotating at speed. Which brings up fleurys' post. did you try removing the front driveshaft ? if not do this while having unlocked hubs... if it still does it, then it`s somewhere in your wheel bearings, wheels, or tires.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 Correct. With your hubs unlocked your CVs wont be rotating at speed. Which brings up fleurys' post. So he's asking I remove the front driveshaft with the hubs unlocked? Isn't there another way to tell what's going on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 just keep your hubs unlocked so the half-shaft don't rotate. After, remove the front drive-shaft.. It;s really just 8 bolts.. mark the parts to be able to reassemble the same way., then go do a test drive... if if fixed it, then you know it is the front ujoint or drive shaft balancing... at limit it could be a transfer case bearing for the front.... if it is still there, then you know it has something to do with your wheel, wheel bearings, tires.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 just keep your hubs unlocked so the half-shaft don't rotate. After, remove the front drive-shaft.. It;s really just 8 bolts.. mark the parts to be able to reassemble the same way., then go do a test drive... if if fixed it, then you know it is the front ujoint or drive shaft balancing... at limit it could be a transfer case bearing for the front.... if it is still there, then you know it has something to do with your wheel, wheel bearings, tires.... Hmm thanks! Would a driveshaft cause issues over bumps specifically? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 If it is doing it over bumps you have something loose...How old are your struts? I remember when one of my dads went bad, it would wobble like hell when you hit bumps and pot holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 just keep your hubs unlocked so the half-shaft don't rotate. After, remove the front drive-shaft.. It;s really just 8 bolts.. mark the parts to be able to reassemble the same way., then go do a test drive... if if fixed it, then you know it is the front ujoint or drive shaft balancing... at limit it could be a transfer case bearing for the front.... if it is still there, then you know it has something to do with your wheel, wheel bearings, tires.... I've got to try this, but my knock is so sporadic that i can never tell what the heck it is... Thanks for the tip... -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 If it is doing it over bumps you have something loose...How old are your struts? I remember when one of my dads went bad, it would wobble like hell when you hit bumps and pot holes. It only does it over bumps or corners, basically any time the suspension cycles. My struts are about 27k old KYB GR-2s and about a year and a few months old, so I wouldn't suspect them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 That's barely 17k miles. Hmm. Which strut bearing did you put in? Wonder if one cracked Sent from my Moto X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 That's barely 17k miles. Hmm. Which strut bearing did you put in? Wonder if one cracked Sent from my Moto X I put in a new KYB one, and didn't replace the strut mount, but considering it's factory and has 100k it looked 100% ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) That might be it, those KYB's have a reputation of failing... -Kyle EDIT: The mounts and bearings that is.... Edited March 22, 2014 by ferrariowner123 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 That might be it, those KYB's have a reputation of failing... -Kyle EDIT: The mounts and bearings that is.... Right but it's only the strut bearing that I bought as KYB, the little plastic unit. The mounts are 100% nissan, and have no visible issues... I looked all over them top and bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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