Karmann Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 So I've realized there's a lot of topics on wobbles, shimmys, and shakes. Maybe some grinding too, but let me add to this list of dances- I have a wobble/vibration in the front end at about 50-60 miles per hour. Now I've gotten under there and it seems that the bushings aren't particularly perished, and I just had the control arms replaced, an alignment, and a tire rotate and balanced. Now I love Jerry Lee Lewis, but I don't need a whole lot of shakin goin on in my front end. Any common causes of this? Thanks as always Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 I think you and I are in the same boat with our "Wobbling" I've checked just about all bushings and joints and it all looks decent, not perfect but certainly wouldn't cause an issue. However, I'am getting prepped to replace my front wheel bearings soon, as i think that my wobble and slight whine coming from my front passenger wheel area between 25-40ish MPH, is the wheel bearings. and that after my first "off road outing" i immediately heard this new whine, so i think something might have failed during that day. That, and i replaced my rotors and pads about 2 years ago, only put about 15K on the car since then, and they are already needed replacement and the passenger rotor is warped from what i can see and feel through the pedal. But bearings are expensive to get a hold of, even from Rob, i'm looking at $260 in just the bearings and seals, so you can understand my procrastination...I bought some rock auto ones, but i think they might be for the updated model hubs, I've had them on my shelf for about a year, so if you wanna give it ago, ill sell them to you cheap, PM me if you are interested. Other than the obvious symptoms, i have no idea to check for bad wheel bearings. I think I remember seeing an episode of MCM, where they talk about wheel run out, maybe you can try and get a hold of those tools, but they are somewhat specialized so you may be forced to the dealer... But that's what I got, hope that sort of helps. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 go by elimination as much as you can.... this is not something we can pinpoint right away... So , I would start by removing both halft-shafts... if still there, then remove front drive shaft. If the problem goes away with the driveshaft, then change the ujoint. If still there, then you know it is with your parts left that rotates.... so you would looking a wheel bearing, tires, rim, etc... S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 He has manual hubs, wouldn't running the hubs in 4X2 mode rule out the half shafts, and i think the drive-shaft? -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 Same, I have manual hubs so that shouldn't be turning right? And I PMd you Ferrari. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 Also what is wheel run- out exactly? And I have the same issue with my brakes- just turned the rotors not long ago and it vibrates already/still grumbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I believe it measures the amount of side to side or "wobble" that the break rotor move when looking at it from the front of the car to the back. I believe there is a range of tolerance that Nissan allows before you need to replace your wheel bearings, let me look in the fsm and see what I can find. -Kyle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Didnt you just go through a bunch of hassle with the mechanic that did that work to your truck? I would check out your front bearings. Especially if he pulled the half shafts to replace the lower control arms. You can also swap front with rear tires. See if it goes away or follows. Then you know its a tire balance issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 For the bearings grab the tire at 12 and 6, and try and wiggle it. If you get any movement, you have loose bearings. Then spin the tire and put your hand on a metal part. If the bearings are bad you will feel it through a metal part that connects to the hub (such as the strut). I have used this method to find bad bearings on a few cars. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Boom br-27, for the 2002 fsm shows how to check runout. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Didnt you just go through a bunch of hassle with the mechanic that did that work to your truck? I would check out your front bearings. Especially if he pulled the half shafts to replace the lower control arms. You can also swap front with rear tires. See if it goes away or follows. Then you know its a tire balance issue. I certainly did, and have a feeling he messed with them. I'll have a peek. Just did the whole tire rotation front to rear business. For the bearings grab the tire at 12 and 6, and try and wiggle it. If you get any movement, you have loose bearings. Then spin the tire and put your hand on a metal part. If the bearings are bad you will feel it through a metal part that connects to the hub (such as the strut). I have used this method to find bad bearings on a few cars. Thank you! I will do this asap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 So I got out there and checked as Adamzan said. There was no grinding when the wheel spun, but a small amount of play when rocked back and forth. What constitutes too much play? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick13 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I'm not trying to throw more at you, but I had a wobble develop in the front several thousand miles ago. It always occurred btw 62-67 mph (yep, that exact). I first took it for a realignment (I have lifetime) and rebalance, but to no avail. So I was convinced something else was going on. I decided to pull, check, and then repack/replace my bearings (they looked to be in very good). I checked all my suspension components up front and my steering rack. I was honestly getting a little worried going on long trips/highway speed with my family/trailer in tow. So, I took my beast to a different shop (my home mechanics shop) and asked him for the best "wheel guy" to check them out. I got them back and found out that one wheel took a ton of weights but they said I was good to go. I thought for sure that it had worked but there was still a slight wobble at given speeds - had the balancing helped? Last week I got upset when if felt like the wobble was slowly coming back. I had 36K miles on my DuraTracs and had been planning on replacing soon anyways, so I got new shoes mounted this afternoon. The tech said they balanced easily - hardly any weights on the rims. I immediately drove to the interstate and plopped it right at 65 mph (where I usually felt the wobble all the way to the steering wheel and honestly through the floorboards and through my seat). There was NO WOBBLE - not even a hint. I'm cautiously relieved. Again, I just thought I'd throw it out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 My duratracs do the same thing except at 50-60mph. No joke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 So I got out there and checked as Adamzan said. There was no grinding when the wheel spun, but a small amount of play when rocked back and forth. What constitutes too much play? Well the service manual says that there should be 0 end play. So I'd say if you can feel play, there is too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) I'm not trying to throw more at you, but I had a wobble develop in the front several thousand miles ago. It always occurred btw 62-67 mph (yep, that exact). I first took it for a realignment (I have lifetime) and rebalance, but to no avail. So I was convinced something else was going on. I decided to pull, check, and then repack/replace my bearings (they looked to be in very good). I checked all my suspension components up front and my steering rack. I was honestly getting a little worried going on long trips/highway speed with my family/trailer in tow. So, I took my beast to a different shop (my home mechanics shop) and asked him for the best "wheel guy" to check them out. I got them back and found out that one wheel took a ton of weights but they said I was good to go. I thought for sure that it had worked but there was still a slight wobble at given speeds - had the balancing helped? Last week I got upset when if felt like the wobble was slowly coming back. I had 36K miles on my DuraTracs and had been planning on replacing soon anyways, so I got new shoes mounted this afternoon. The tech said they balanced easily - hardly any weights on the rims. I immediately drove to the interstate and plopped it right at 65 mph (where I usually felt the wobble all the way to the steering wheel and honestly through the floorboards and through my seat). There was NO WOBBLE - not even a hint. I'm cautiously relieved. Again, I just thought I'd throw it out there. Excellent point, I haven't noticed an excess of wheel weights, but I'll take a look. Balancing issues aren't common for my tires, but perhaps. Well the service manual says that there should be 0 end play. So I'd say if you can feel play, there is too much. Hmm.... well keeping that in mind I ordered some new bearings to be safe. Thank you for the help! Edited March 16, 2014 by Karmann Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Having just driven it, I should also make note, when going over speed bumps or cranking the wheel to the lock position, there is a consistent and noticeable crunching sound coming from the right front tire area. Any ideas? Edited March 16, 2014 by Karmann Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Well what haven't you checked/ replaced recently? I'm not saying this is you, but alot of people over look checking the steering rack bushings as the stupid location of he oil filter makes the perish quicker, don't know if that's the same for the VQ's but worth a look, inner and outer tire rods, again something that should have ZERO play. Past that im at a total loss. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Well what haven't you checked/ replaced recently? I'm not saying this is you, but alot of people over look checking the steering rack bushings as the stupid location of he oil filter makes the perish quicker, don't know if that's the same for the VQ's but worth a look, inner and outer tire rods, again something that should have ZERO play. Past that im at a total loss. -Kyle Let's see.... I replaced the strut bearings with my lift, as well as the strut assembly mounting bolts (extended for the spacers), replaced the lower control arms and bushings, and while installing the lift made sure everything was dead-tight. After crawling under there today while lifted up, all visible bushings seem to be in good shape. TREs are solid, nothing wiggles, and there's no obvious corrosion. Looking a little deeper, I bought and will install replacement sway bar bushings as those are a little crispy. If I get the chance I will remove the front skidplate and take a look at the PS rack bushings, even though on the VQ they included a little shield for the oil, but that hasn't stopped splatter before... Anything which would cause a crunching noise up there that leaps out? It happens while going over the speed bumps themselves, so I wouldn't think it's the PS bushings? Edited March 16, 2014 by Karmann Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Did you change the strut mounts? That could be it. I've been battling a similar noise for quite some time and I'm getting get feeling with each passing day that it's my bearing related problems. Or I didn't "rebuild" (ie, re Grease) my half shafts very well. But check your diff mounts, another member said he had an issue with those causing a metal on metal noise. Don't know the outcome for him, but I mentioned it to rob and he said it was a problem he has seen before with people describing the same symptoms. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 I inspected the strut mounts during the lift process and they seemed ok? I'll take a look at the diff ones as well, where are they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 BAM!! Thats about all i can give you. sorry, not all that descriptive. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Ok thank you, I'll look at those as well, look like a PITA to replace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 They are where hands do not fit well. Get it up in the air on jack stands and you'll see. Most of the work will be dis assembly and re assembly of parts on the front of the truck. But with good light you'll be able to see them and inspect them. IF you do decide to replace them. Then that would be a good time to either install a air locker or go ahead and put in a Lokka locker up front. Lokka is the US name for a Aussie or Lunch box locker. http://lokka.com/site/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmann Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Crap, is it so labor intensive as to drop the whole diff? I've been thinking of a lokka actually... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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