MrEviLDeD Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 That still has the flywheel on right? The seal I am looking for is behind that right? I know in mine it isn't a flywheel but I get the general idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Small minor update. I have ordered upper/lower ball joints for both sides. I have also ordered Inner/Outer tie rod ends and adjuster sleeves. This means that I have the Axles, ball joints, tie-rod ends. I do not have the outlay for the center link at this moment at 130$ but what else should I get that I can afford to top this off.. Should I get strut rod bushings? Control arm bushings? The idler arms are kind of pricey as well at 170$ a piece (unless I was looking at the wrong things). Massing all the parts in one place so hopefully can get in and out and finish the rest... With those out of the way it will leave only the fuel lines and the rear seal to contend with... Today will be a loss too, which leaves just 4 days remaining. Getting worried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 No junkyards around? I would try to get the whole length of fuel line used or see if you can order it new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 The 2 fuel lines (Metal) new from an online dealer cost $49 and $26, not too bad to know the lines will be good longer than the truck will probably last. Prices may be more up where you are. There is a 3rd line but it is for the Evaporation system and it runs about $18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Yea the trick with the fuel lines is that they cannot be shipped over the border, or at least most places will not ship them. The nissan dealership(s) here I have reached out to have not gotten back to me. So hopefully next week they will. It is blistering cold here. Just went out, figured what the hell get the battery hold down installed.. Got the packages open, figured out reasonably about where it will go, threw it all into a large zip lock and busted ass back inside. -21c, feels like -31c. Tomorrow will be a little warmer hopefully and Tuesday should be back up to like -3c. Well get a bunch done then. For now I will just spray all the bolts and such in the steering parts to hopefully loosen the bolts. There are junk yards, and a couple of Pick N Pulls. The junk yards I came up dry. There are I think three pathfinders I should be able to pull the lines from. Just need to get there. Again WAY WAY to cold to be out in a wreckers yard At least not without a spare TaunTaun with me I suspect Hoth was warmer than it is here and I am thankful I am not in Saskachewan or Manitoba. Reports of like -57c and crap with wind chill... Right now I wish I was in FL, kicking back. Buy you a beer You know, Pathfinder stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Yeah I could see them being a problem to ship, may want to look into buying some metal fuel line and bending it yourself. I keep forgetting how cold it is up there for you guys, I wouldn't want to be outside working in it either !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 Ok guess it is a no go for new fuel lines. Two different dealer ships said that it would have to come from the factory and that the factory doesn't make them anymore. I tried to explain that in the USA they are still being made as was indicated to me by Alkorahil. They responded that might be the case in the USA but not in Canada. So guess it is the wreckers or run my own lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Run your own lines, cheaper, faster, and readily available. My good friends brother is a mechanic (he owns his own shop now) says he always replaces rusted metal lines with nylon ones. But I think you need a special tool for that, so just get a roll of metal line, they come in 25 foot rolls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 Run your own lines, cheaper, faster, and readily available. My good friends brother is a mechanic (he owns his own shop now) says he always replaces rusted metal lines with nylon ones. But I think you need a special tool for that, so just get a roll of metal line, they come in 25 foot rolls. What kind of mounting fasteners and connections do I need? I suspect I will need a tube bender tool as well to do this? Do I just wrap some rubber over the pipe and self-tap screw clamps to the underbody? Time to hit youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 You need fuel injection hose clamps. Your rubber hoses are probably still good so re use those. See if you can use the attachment points on the frame unless the bolts are all snapped. You don't want to screw anything into the floor of the truck. I would zip tie them to the brake lines. You can get a cheap tube bender at CT for 10 dollars or so. I have one but you can bend it by hand pretty easily and its mostly a long straight run anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 The mechanic that did the inspection told me that the lines cannot be rubber to the back. He never said the clamps weren't right so not sure how to interpret what he said so just to be safe I want to make sure they are not rubber. I am going to hassle the guy and get a better insight to what will work opposed to just that it is generally broken. Thanks adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) Ok, official word is that any factory steel fuel lines cannot be replaced with rubber they have to be steel. So that is the end of that. Off to pick a part. hope the lines come out easy.. -20c the penetrating sprays comes out more like a gel He couldn't really give me a proper means to fasten the lines down but this guy would fail zip ties I am pretty sure. Best I could do is use the existing hold downs (which doesn't look to possible). I must be boring everyone already, but more to come. Maybe I can STILL make the deadline.... Edited March 3, 2014 by MrEviLDeD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Ok, official word is that any factory steel fuel lines cannot be replaced with rubber they have to be steel. So that is the end of that. Off to pick a part. hope the lines come out easy.. -20c the penetrating sprays comes out more like a gel He couldn't really give me a proper means to fasten the lines down but this guy would fail zip ties I am pretty sure. Best I could do is use the existing hold downs (which doesn't look to possible). I must be boring everyone already, but more to come. Maybe I can STILL make the deadline.... YOU CAN DOO EEEEET!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 You could probably use these to clamp the line (s) to the frame, these should be available locally: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Day 5 of 10 Way to cold to get anything done today. I did however locate and order the tie-rod ends and adjusters. So will be able to pick those up tomorrow (today.) I also picked up the ball-joints. So almost all of the steering parts are in hand ready to go in. Also finally located a container of that RiSlone Rear Main Seal Repair treatment so also have that too. Day 6 of 10 Picked up the tie-rod ends today and put an order in for the rear main seal kit (seal and gasket kit). So all that is technically left now is finding the oil leak and putting an end to it, and the accessories drive belts. I have all the parts needed except wheel bearings (didn't order any because was told that they can be repacked and adjusted). I also wasn't able to buy a center link, or torsion rod bushings kits. So hope that there is nothing wrong with the remaining parts. Also installed the battery hold-down. I am not very happy with the product and will need a 10" j hook opposed to the two 7" jhooks I have. Crappy planning and nothing universal about it. It is in though! A note about the oil leaking. I was under the hood today checking the oil and I noticed that it was considerably wet in terms of oil around the right valve cover gasket. It looks like there is a stain on the exhaust plate under it running down, and on the tranny as well. However it isn't wet *dried from normal engine heat maybe". This may be one source of the oil leak. The gasket portions that stick out from under the valve cover looks quite wet so it is obviously leaking from there as well. I could not get a good look on the left side as there was not enough light. Maybe it has been infact been leaking from the valve covers. Cross your fingers This would be a very easy fix.. Current day 6 score: Wheel Bearings (Front) - Status: Needs Adjustment or Repair Oil Leaks (Unsure where, think rear seal) - Status: Needs Repair or Replacement Valve Cover Gaskets (Left/Right) - Status: Needs Replacement Left/Right CV Boots Torn - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Tie-Rod Ends (Left/Right) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Ball Joints (Upper-Left/Right, Lower-Left/Right)- Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement Fuel System (See Previous Notes) - Status: Purchased(awaiting shipment), Needs Replacement Daylight Running Lamps - Status: FIXED Battery Hold Down - Status: FIXED Rear Bumper (Full Bumper) - Status: FIXED Tire Condition (Front Set) - Status: FIXED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 The valve cover screws tend to loosen over time, first step would be to try to tighten them, than replace the gaskets if tightening doesn't work. When I checked the screws holding my valve covers down a while back I found all the screws loose to the point I could turn them with my fingers, I do not have any leaks from mine but I did buy new gaskets and I did replace the easy side (pass), was going to do the drivers side at a later date but did not get to it. The pass. side gasket was stuck on the head real good so I don't think it was leaking anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Just to make sure. When I do the rear main seal I need to pull the axle shaft and slide the tranny towards the back 4 or 5 inches (more?). Doing this will I have to re-align and center the clutch to put it back when I am done with the seal? Sorry for the dumb question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 You mean pull the driveshaft? Yes you will need to remove the clutch pressure plate, clutch and flywheel to get to the rear main seal, than when re-installing a clutch alignment tool or other home made tool will be needed to center the clutch when the pressure plate is re-installed. Other parts will need to be removed in order to move the tranny back as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 That is indeed what I meant. Do I remove the mount bolt completely or is there room to slide. I am wondering if it wouldn't just be as easy to take the transmission out. Would certainly give a greater amount of room to work on the rear seal. As well get a good look at the complete backside of the motor for any other leaks. Thanks again ahardbody. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 To remove the tranny completely I believe you would need to remove the torsion bars and cross member. What Mount bolt are you referring too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Tranny mount. One a few of the Ford and GM cars I have worked on there was a slot in the mount that allowed the tranny to slide back and forth about 3" or 4" if I recall without having to completely remove the transmission mounting bolt. Ahh. Ok so there is enough up there to hold the tranny in place slid back. Got ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 The tranny mount on these trucks sits over the cross member and the studs are part of the mount but the side that bolts to the trans uses nuts and bolts, You may be able to unbolt the mount from the trans and leave the mount on the cross member and slide the trans back, this is what the mount looks like, in this pic it would be upside down: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 There is no way for me to make the deadline of tomorrow. I gave it a full on try. The weather beat me. Good news though the new fuel lines came in fast. So had I been able to get out to clean off the engine and get those axles and front end parts in. I would have made it Will keep updating though. Might as well stick with it through to passing inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 So you have to pay for an other inspection? Dam start anouther inspection count down, this has been like "when is the baby coming". Some of us have been cheering for you, don't give up now..Go Evil go.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Did the fuel lines make it in yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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