gv280z Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I got my front shocks installed yesterday and the first one I changed nearly kicked my butt. It was the passenger side shock and when I got in there and looked at it, I was very surprised to see that it was the original shock! I knew this because of the presence of the wiring harness plugging into the top of the shock body. Wow. So, needless to say the top nut was positively welded on, I did try and use some PB blaster on it..and a couple of big wrenches, one large pipe wrench and an adjustable wrench....and then another smaller 10" pipe wrench on the nut to no avail...then it was time for extreme measures. that is not coming off. I would have been screwed, without my trusty saw CUT IT OFF!!!! then it just needed a tap or two and voila! Well, not really..I was able to remove the bottom mounting bolt easily...but... I could not compress this shock! So I worked for like atleast an hour trying to jostle and unwedge that freaking shock from between the top bolt caught in the upper mount and the lower eyebolt caught in the frame, I started having to gently lower the entire vehicle to the ground to get the shock to compress and then quickly raise it back up again and roughly in this manner I was finally able to get that damn shock out and then get the new one installed. Again, disaster strikes, the bottom mounting bolt would not thread, I guess the threads were screwed up and wouldn't take...but I was lucky, I remembered I'd removed a similar size bolt from the pump of a pressure washer about 2 weeks before and thought it might fit...and it worked! So I was able to securely mount in my new shock. This morning while looking at my pictures...I was trying to think of a way to bolt in a bracket of some type on the lower shock mount to effectively raise the mounting bolt position about an inch or so, there by lifting the suspension...and then I saw I think there is some room at the top mount to drill a couple of holes, put a long enough bolt through, use a few shims and be able to mount rear shocks with eyelets at top and bottom on the front! I made a quick little sketch here. I don't have to energy to try this now but I welcome any of you to it if it's never been done before and you think it will work. I may try this sometime in the future. The yellow is the drilled holes and the top eyelet, the red is the bolt. The other side took me about half an hour, very easy, that shock was bad and it compressed very easily. Bing bang boom and done. So I guess this whole time one of my front shocks was bad, the other still good..somehow..it was stiffer than the new rear KYB shocks. So now I'm just trying to figure out how I like them...they seem okay so far, handle fine and truck is controllable. It can only be better than it was before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 That bottom bolt is not the right way to do things. The shock bushing needs to be tight against the bracket so it can't move around and wallow out the bushing, rattle around, and bend the bolt. That will cause you problems. As far as "thereby raising the suspension..." no, the shocks don't determine the ride height whatsoever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 I assure you, that bolt is tight, I know it doesn't look it but it's not budging, and I couldn't take it all the way in because threads would have run out, all I can do is go back with some washers to shim it up but, I don't really understand you, the bushing is tight inside the bracket, the bolt was the exact same diameter, it's not like it's too small and allowing play inside the eyelet of the shock, it's the two bolts were identical in diameter if that's what you mean. The length of the bolt ofcourse I know it doesn't look right but it's okay, really. You're not suggesting that I could somehow tighten up the metal tabs that the eyelet sits in, are you? I mean that mounting bracket is like forged / cast iron, I don't think those metal tabs have any give in them to be able to clamp down and sandwich the eyelet. I definitely see how the diameter of the bolt could be a problem if it were too small, it would allow slack and all kinds of movement inside the eyelet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I would have just cut the top off from the start, especially if I saw all that rust, your not going to re-use them anyway. My shocks are the original adjustable and still work perfect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I assure you, that bolt is tight, I know it doesn't look it but it's not budging, and I couldn't take it all the way in because threads would have run out, all I can do is go back with some washers to shim it up but, I don't really understand you, the bushing is tight inside the bracket, the bolt was the exact same diameter, it's not like it's too small and allowing play inside the eyelet of the shock, it's the two bolts were identical in diameter if that's what you mean. The length of the bolt ofcourse I know it doesn't look right but it's okay, really. You're not suggesting that I could somehow tighten up the metal tabs that the eyelet sits in, are you? I mean that mounting bracket is like forged / cast iron, I don't think those metal tabs have any give in them to be able to clamp down and sandwich the eyelet. I definitely see how the diameter of the bolt could be a problem if it were too small, it would allow slack and all kinds of movement inside the eyelet. Grab a tab with pliers and bent it, its easy. Been there and done that. Without force against both sides of the tabs, as time goes on, they will start to open up. A bolt at the parts store is a dollar or to, do it right man... all the lower tabs are are mild steel welded on to the LCA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 The bolt you are using may be tight but the two shock tabs need to be squeezing against the shock, you need to get a shorter bolt is what kingman is saying. If you think the threads on the welded on nut are messed up and don't have a tap to clean the threads, you could just cut the nut off and use a normal nut. Over time from people replacing shocks ( you should not have had this problem as your shocks were still stock) the tabs can get bent and when you go to put the bolt back in it may not line up perfectly with the nut, that would cause the bolt to not thread into the nut correctly and would damage the nut threads ( and possibly the bolt too) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Yep, I would have gone to the saw directly after a wrench and channel locks woun't budge the top nut. Don't be afraid to cut off stubborn parts that are to be thrown away anyway. As for keeping the shock compressed, next time compress it with the weight of the truck and then tightly cinch the top and bottom in place with some decent cable ties. When you jack up the truck again, the shock will stay compressed and be easy to remove. Kingman already explained that the shocks do not really influence ride height. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 (edited) Are the stock shocks gas charged or something? why would it not compress? old age was it just stuck extended? I would have wacked the bottom of the shock from the back until it came out of the mounting tabs, than it should have given you enough room to remove the top. Edited February 9, 2014 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 yes they are gas charged and I was able to get the bottom eyelet out of the mounting tabs but it was still stuck in the lower suspension arm with the shock fully extended against the top mount and I couldn't compress it by hand at all. The shock was loose and I could jostle it back and forth but it wouldn't come out. I tried prying it, hammering on it, it was just so damned stiff the only way I could compress it was by very gently lowering the forklift and letting the bottom of the suspension arm and brake rotor lay on the ground and the shock would compress, I had to do it like 3 times and it finally worked, right when I was really starting to panic. I understand now regarding the bolt, I'll go to the hardware store and find a nut and lock washer I can get on the end of that long bolt i'm using now and just tighten it up good and snug that way. The thread on that bolt is coarse so I'm afraid I can't go back with the standard size and type of bolt. Yes, Precise that's exactly what I did, large pipe wrench, adjustable wrench didn't work, then I tried another pipe wrench when the nut started rounding off and it still wouldn't break..so then I got out the saw...while in full on panic mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 If you're going to the store why not just pick up a right length bolt alog with a nut. On mine the tabs pryed apart because the sleeve was seized onto the bolt so I had to weld the tab back on. My shocks were original on all 4 corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Well, it's official, I don't like the new KYB shocks up front..the ones in the rear are fine but the fronts are too soft. My truck is still totally controllable, it's not like it's gone dangerous to drive or anything of the sort. However I just really don't like the feel of them and going over rises in the road has my front end going up and down slightly a few times after clearing the elevation change in the pavement. I'm going to return them as quickly as I can get another set ordered and thrown on there..but have to do with finesse so as to not set off the wife alarm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Just looking at your pictures again, and totally off topic, but did someone cut and pry part of the body away there?? Wtf? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 That looks like the stock fender well liner that is torn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) yea, this is the first time I've had the front wheels off so I don't really know how its supposed to look in there, whatever that liner is I guess like Ahardbody said it's just torn away for some reason. I think I found the shocks I'm going to experiment with next to replace these, going to use KYB Gas adjust shocks..these seem quite a bit beefier...sound like a better built shock and I'm actually wanting to try them in the rear now as well... I don't really understand, says they are a monotube and part gas, part hydraulic or something like that...a hybrid shock I guess? I think these really are the right ones, and I found them on Ebay for $29 a shock and free shipping to boot! Edited February 10, 2014 by gv280z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Okay..I just watched a short youtube video on the twin tube vs mono tube design involving the Gas Adjust shocks and I thinks that's key..I'm sensing that our trucks did come stock with the more robust mono tube design..hence the reason why WD21Colorado and I had such adverse reactions to the standard twin tube KYB shocks, up front anyway...not really sure about the rears, I guess they are just overly stiff. So far I'm okay with the rear, albeit they're a little bouncy at times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Just get a pair of Rancho's 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 X2 get the Rancho's. Great shocks no second guessing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 they're expensive as crap though..I can't really justify paying $50 a shock right now. So far I've been able to get mine for $25 and $30, and this next pair will be $29 and yes I will get my money back for this current set I'm sending back. Plus I have this one particular itch in me that won't let me do what every one else is doing just for the sake of it, I usually have to work my way around to it on my own because I've learned why and why not, which makes it really hard to take advice at times. After I get over this hump I might wait a little while..couple of months or so, and start buying one shock a month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Just looking at your pictures again, and totally off topic, but did someone cut and pry part of the body away there?? Wtf? The way it's "trimmed" looks like someone was making easier access for a starter job or less knuckle scraping when reaching for the oil filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) My neighbor is one of those who "have to do things different than everyone else", than he has a harder time with everything he tries to do, takes him twice as long to find the parts he needs to do what he has to do, etc. Nothing wrong with doing your own thing, AT ALL go for it HOO RAY !! BUT: Wanting to try a shock that no one else has, or a tire, or a susp. lift, etc, even if you get your money back each time, is not worth the time and labor it would normally take the average person, to just do it once. It's your truck, your choice, your money, your time, do what you wish, have fun, and good luck with your second or third or fourth shock choice, hope you find one you like, usually when multiple people recommend a product is because they have experience with that product and know it is a good product. Edited February 10, 2014 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Lol, OK ;-) all excellent points, and reading between the lines I get your frustation and I understand. I didn't say I like it but unfortunately your neighbor and I are a lot alike, but luckily I can sometimes be made to see reason and actually can cut out the b.s. in the middle. I can't help but agree with everything you said, it is silly to do it over and over several times in a row for no good reason. I will start looking into the ranchos and see what I can learn. Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 not frustrated at all, trying to help you so you don't get frustrated LOL I know ( as many others probably know too) that having to re-do the same job over and over is a pain in the butt, we all would like to replace a part one time and be done, starters for example, you know they are a pain to remove and re-install, after getting the old one out and new one in you expect it to work when it doesn't you get pissed off that a new product doesn't work and now you have to do it again, it would be nice if everything worked perfect the first time, product failures such as this happen we all know this, but replacing a product that shouldn't fail and should just come out and go back in and be done is nice, who wants to do the same job multiple times, not me. If you don't mind doing this good for you As for shocks, I'm not saying Rancho shocks are the best, I've used them with no problem, I've had Gabriel Silver E adjustable shocks in the past, no longer made, same company made them and Rancho at the time, my wife had Trailmaster shocks in her Toyota that were fine, my stubborn neighbor now has Bilstein, which I think are one of the best out there, it all comes down to preference and cost and how much you want to spend, sure a nice set of Fox racing shocks would be nice to have but who has the money for those !! LOL Good luck with what ever you choose, and people like you let us all know what works and doesn't, Thanks for sharing your opinions !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Another option is the Pro Comp brand. IIRC the ES1000 are 'stock replacements' and the ES3000 are upgrades. I have personally run the ES3000 and found them to be quite adequate, but just a hair stiff in the rear when unladen (as it should be IMO). They often have sales deals on them like $99 for 4, or at least they did. Here are some that I looked up for your year (verify of course). I'd say save up the $ while looking for a good deal to try to meet your price point. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-Shocks/Shock-Absorbers.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=90&t_pt=3306&kw=pro%20comp%20shocks B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 they're expensive as crap though..I can't really justify paying $50 a shock right now. So far I've been able to get mine for $25 and $30, and this next pair will be $29 and yes I will get my money back for this current set I'm sending back. Plus I have this one particular itch in me that won't let me do what every one else is doing just for the sake of it, I usually have to work my way around to it on my own because I've learned why and why not, which makes it really hard to take advice at times. After I get over this hump I might wait a little while..couple of months or so, and start buying one shock a month. Look around. I paid less than that for mine. I think I made out with all 4 of mine for around 140 dollars at 4wheel parts with free shipping. They had a buy 3 get one free deal or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 (edited) Okay, Today I did switch out the very much too soft KYB twin tube shocks KY344430 for the stronger and firmer KYB Mono tube shocks that I got from here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291068634600?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 I paid $29 a piece for them, free shipping and they came 2 days later. My son and wife and I swapped them in this evening and they are a huge improvement over the first pair. I am very happy with these, I don't think I'm going to have to mess with my shocks again for a long time. These are firm but they do have just a little bit of give to them, just enough that you almost didn't notice it. Tonight on the way home I went through a really bad road dip crossing an intersection and they did great, and I was going kinda quick..like 15 or 20, where you'd usually go through around 2 or 3 mph for that dip. They are much harder to compress by hand and have a very forceful rebound when you let go. I had to compress several times during the installation just to get the stem through the top mount, it's hard to keep it compressed. Nissanland you were dead on right about the metal tabs and needing that bolt to tighten up, I absolutely did see that the tab was bent when I took the other pair out. So I did shim that long bolt up with a couple of washers and a lock washer. Another mistake I realized I had made before was I hadn't properly used the rubber bushings and washers on the top mount. During the installation tonight I picked up on my mistake and corrected it. Originally I didn't use one of the brass washers settled down around the base of the stem facing up to hold the bushing, and then another on top so that the bushing is sandwiched between the two, AND THEN at that point do you allow the threaded stem to rise up through the top mount, I used another washer on top and then screwed down the nut, holding the shock body tight with one hand while using a wrench to tight the nut. The mistake that I did born of ignorance was I had allowed the rubber bushing to mash down against the top of the shock / base of the stem, I didn't understand. So, my total bill for my shocks and labor was roughly $110 for a set of KYB shocks, rears are KY344045 Excel G twin tube, front's are KG5476 Gas A Just monotube shocks. Rear shock installation labor was 2 hours; front installation also about 2 hours but this includes personal complications of fixing errors, removing drivers side wheel and shock a 2nd time after finishing both sides and teaching wife and son how to use air ratchet, torque wrench and lug nut star tightening method that all dads are responsible for teaching their sons. I am totally happy and satisfied with these shocks and recommend as perfect replacements for daily driving and maybe mild offroading, I'm not afraid to take my truck anywhere at this point. If you are going to buy these don't give sticker price for them, look around. The rears I got free shipping and $24 a piece from Auto Parts Warehouse.com Ofcourse, now my only real issue is I kinda want to get a set of the Gas A Just for the rear now...I may do this 6 months to a year from now.... Edited February 16, 2014 by gv280z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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