Hangdiver Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Got a 3 inch lift last year, weird things happen when I'm on dry pavement in 4. Pulls to the side-by-side. This weekend I'm lowering the front back down a bit to see if the issue goes away. I'm assuming it's the CV's binding. Probably not a good thing! If that's the case, does anyone know of a good set of high articulation axles I can throw up front? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Why are you driving on drivepavement in 4wheel drive!? Things will pull, and it will feel "weird". As long as nothing binds or rachets off road, its fine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 Well, up here it seems to snow and look great, then a few hours later it gets up into the upper 30's. Then you're mainly on snow and ice, but start hitting patches of asphalt. I still have another 1" to go on the lift, I've got to re-index the T-bars. I just don't want to go any higher if I'm creating a bind. If that's what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) Use the 4wd when you need it.....? Driving around all the time in 4wd is not good for things. Seems like you need to go AWD if that's what you want to do. But people run 3" suspension lifts all the tiem with no binding, do your cv's click when turning off road? How are the boots? Edited October 29, 2013 by Kyle94 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 It is the 4wd engaged on pavement that is the issue, all information warns not to do this. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 I try not to use it in town, but here it gets real icy real fast. Replaced the front axles 3 years back. Boots are good. I don't think it's clicking, hard to tell, 98% of the time I'm on crunchy ice/snow. Back when I lived in Cali, when I wasn't up in the mountains much, I would get in a parking lot where I wouldn't have to turn, and put it in 4 and drive in a straight line. I guess I was just trying to run things through. But it never did what it's doing now. Never did it before the lift. So I was going towards the lift binding. Maybe I've got something else going on. By-the-way, this is driving in a straight line. When winter hits up here, most turns will be snow/ice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 YOu got auto hubs? or manual hubs? If you need to, our trucks are shift on the fly into 4 hi only. leave your manuals locked in on the road (truck NOT in 4wd) until you feel you need it I.E, start slipping or sliding. or if you have autos, drive a few feet for ward in 4hi and then take it out, your hubs will already be locked in until you reverse a few feet. then you can still easily shift on the fly without fear of the hubs grinding or getting stuck and them not locking in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 You might have some play somewhere, the centerlink, idler arm, tie rod ends, etc that is allowing the shimmy but I am fairly certain it is the 4wd mode in full traction conditions that is the root cause, or what wore out the components themselves. I'd love to hear what snow and ice people have to say (I live in Cali), but I've heard this described before. Interestingly enough, one 'solution' I have heard of is to lock the front diff (weld, air, mechanical) and run manual hubs, only engaging one side thereby allowing free turning and not making the differental operate when driving is a straight line. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 4WD on pavement will cause binding, and with enough stress, will break components. That's the first issue. Whatever is the weak link will eventually fail. I had transfer case gears shear teeth in a Jeep transfercase known to take the torque of most V8s. Just my .02. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Isnt the trick for snow/ice to run manual hubs. Keep one locked, one unlocked and then can run 4hi while its snowing and icing with fewer issues? Essentially putting yourself into 3wd mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Isnt the trick for snow/ice to run manual hubs. Keep one locked, one unlocked and then can run 4hi while its snowing and icing with fewer issues? Essentially putting yourself into 3wd mode. And now all the power runs to the unlocked hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 True. Read about it somewhere on this forum at some point, maybe they had the lunch box lockers or limited slips up front. Just a thought. Florida guy here, no snow; just hurricanes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 True. Read about it somewhere on this forum at some point, maybe they had the lunch box lockers or limited slips up front. Just a thought. Florida guy here, no snow; just hurricanes. If you ran an LSD it would work. I can't say how well, or if there would be binding, no way to try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 living in winterpeg canada, for 7months of the year I have to deal with snow,ice and slush. I shift in and out of 4HI quite often haven't had any issues. though sometimes I leave it in 4HI as long as traction is sketchy. Haven't had any problems though I've only been through 1 winter with "MR.Rumble Pants" (hole in tail pipe) On second though sometimes it doesn't come out of 4HI unless I shift into N for a few truck lengths, then the light goes off and I'll shift back into D. shifting into 4LO requires me shutting off the truck, then restarting. It's a pain but where I go I rarely need 4LO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 It's auto on the fly. I'll give some of those ideas a try. It just started happening after the lift. That's why I was worried. We'll see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Did you have it aligned after you lifted it? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Good point, not yet. To get the full lift up front I've got to reindex the T-bars. I might just go ahead and get it done to see if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 I'm wondering, wouldn't it still have an issue in 2wd? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 No, because your CV's aren't turnig thus causing "grip" (all four tires fighting eachother on pavement.) ever tried turning on dry pavement in 4wd? you pretty much can't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Yeah, now that's true. I've done that leaving the trails and forgetting to take it out of 4x. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Ok, I recommend you reindex the bars and set the lift the way you want it (I recommend .5-1" max from the bumpstop so you have some down travel) and then go have it aligned. I'm not saying this is the only thing going on, but I'll bet it is a significant contributor. Definitely something that needs to be rules out, and your tires will thank you for it regardless. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 My truck does all sorts of WHEIRD stuff when it's in 4 wheel drive as opposed to 2 wheel drive. And that's because when the front wheels are powered everything is getting loaded differently. My center link is HOSED, as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfoley412 Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Both of my boots are ripped on the bottom, and when I go around turns i hear kind of a clunk. Should I be worried about fixing my cv boots before going into winter? I live in Central Oregon and will probably have a pretty snowy winter.. I have never really had to work on the 4wd, it has worked fine for me since I got the truck and I think the boots have been ripped the whole time, I dont really use the 4wd unless its bad weather out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inyourface1650 Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Yeah mine have been torn for years. Haven't failed on me yet....knock on wood. As soon as I put new CV shafts in, they tear again. I need to drop my diff. This last set tore on both sides RIGHT where it was clamped to the shaft, so the actual boot is basically intact - the grease really can't go anywhere (except out along the shaft...not happening when its spinning!!!) Anyway, if your stock you should probably replace them at some point and they will last... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 If you have a napa near you, I would suggest the lifetime warranty cvs..... they are phenomenal. I have 3.5" front torsion bar lift, 1" balljoint spacers, ultra low profile upper bump stops, 33x12.5x15 tires on 15x10 steel low offset rims. No front locker but I daily my truck through winters and wheel it regularly. They have now lasted 4 years with all the front lift and travel I run. Still tight as day one and boots are intact. They run quite the angle sometimes but are still holding up great. I know the question is for extended cvs but these have got to be the next best thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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