Kyle94 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 So for a while now my truck has had this miss/stumble/jolt. lately on the freeway it does it all the time... Well just yesterday.. all hell broke loose (mind you this entire time, NO CEL/SES) and now it barely moves without flooring it and its missing like CRAZY. Strange thing though. I cleaned the TB using the writeup on nicoclub, and now its even WORSE. the truck has a high idle. is throwing a knock sensor and a MAF sensor code. And i can't drive it with OD or i get turned into a milkshake. Unplugging the MAF yields: dropped idle, then even MORE rough idling after the idle levels back out. Before i got replacing either the dizzy or the maf, i don't know which to attack first, as i can't really afford both. It's chugging gas like a tank, and can barely get out of it's own way. And I feel as if i'm gonna get run over... I swear i fix one thing, and two more pop up. I've been told to replace the knock sensor (seems rather extreme for a knock sensor?) The dizzy has the "red dust" failure under the cap (could this cause it?) And then the MAF, wigglign wires, cleaning it, nothing changed. and no vacuum leaks that i can find either. OH YEAH! it only does this when its fully warm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 Guess ill compile the video's ive taken of it's Sheit... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=577369765633489&set=vb.100000814125250&type=3&permPage=1 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=577965192240613&set=vb.100000814125250&type=3&permPage=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo94 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Clean the throttle body again and the IACV, It's happened to me before where I clean the IACV on a different vehicle and the problem actually gets worse and it idles much higher so try cleaning both and see how you go. Have you tried letting the ecu reset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 It's unplugged for the night, since about 8pm. its now 1:45 am... we will see what happesn in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo94 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 The battery? you can just drain whatever power is left manually, when its unhooked push the brakes and the horn and that should do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 Meh, one of the things i was told to try... to fully rest the ecu/pcm.... we will see. im not messing with it anymore to night. so why not? haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linewar Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 (edited) Have you checked the voltage return on the alternator? I had an alternator go out on another vehicle and it behaved exactly like that - chugging, stumbling, black smoke from the exhaust and drinking gas. I only knew what it was because the dash had a voltmeter and I noticed it was low. I trickle charged the battery, it started and ran fine, then as the charge got lower it would behave like that. On that note I would check the alternator and battery because if the battery is old, it may just not be able to deliver enough power for the components. But definitely check the alternator return with a voltmeter. Edited October 3, 2013 by linewar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 So what does the FSM and related TS have to say about it? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 You could have made the video longer...now I have to go youtube "Drinks after work" so I can hear the rest of the song. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 hahahah! I was wondering who would comment about the song first. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 Tomorrow my dizzy gets here (while im at work) so ill be changing it late at night. ANy tips on this one? I've been told to rememeber which way the rotor is pointing, and put it in clocked the same way, but ill still need to get a timing light. might go buy one in the am. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Tomorrow my dizzy gets here (while im at work) so ill be changing it late at night. ANy tips on this one? I've been told to rememeber which way the rotor is pointing, and put it in clocked the same way, but ill still need to get a timing light. might go buy one in the am. You might be able to rent one from an auto parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismotr Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 My truck had similar symptoms and the new distributor cleared everything up for me, hope that works for you too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 I've had a few people tell me they had similar symtoms. and the dizzy is a common problem. so im hoping this is the case. but it's odd with the high idle and maf sensor code... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 Dizzy got here and I installed it before work and drove it. It doesn't stumble or miss anymore. But it's idling high like it was before. And the idle still goes up and down after I tap the gas. there is a clicking sound coming from back around the egr valve area as well...? It doesn't seem to be sucking gas down anymore! Lol. Old dizzy sounds like it has gravel In it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 When I cleaned my TB I had an idle of about 2,000 for a few days while the ECU "relearned" the settings. I was also getting a knock sensor code & a "rear heated oxygen sensor" code. Both of these now come & go as the fuel level goes up & down, not in any regular way but just random on & off. Car runs great though. Hope you get it sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 I've read either the tb or the idle air control valve have went bad. But idk. Still searching For a timing light. Harbor freight doesn't sell them. And oreilly doesn't rent. Trying to find one from a friend to borrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Harbor freight doesn't sell them. http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 "our harbor freight" doesn't have them... should i say. lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 When I cleaned my TB I had an idle of about 2,000 for a few days while the ECU "relearned" the settings. I was also getting a knock sensor code & a "rear heated oxygen sensor" code. Both of these now come & go as the fuel level goes up & down, not in any regular way but just random on & off. Car runs great though. Hope you get it sorted. How do you get through California SMOG, i thought they defected with 2 or more codes? -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 I don't understand why it's acting like it's got an air leak. When i hit the gas when idling or driving. and let go. the idle jumps up and down a few times, then rests again. or when i start it. it jumps way up, and then down and up down and up. etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Have you checked the Fuel Pressure Regulator vacuum line? It sits WAY back close to the firewall, drivers side, and almost all of it sits under the upper intake, its a B***H to get to. The only reason i know its there is because I've pulled the upper intake a few times. I believe it runs to the FPR and sits right under the upper intake and runs to the TB... Just going on a hunch. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 ..... uhhhhhh, is it the same thing as a vg30? i know there's one back by the 6th spark plug that can get messed up on a vg30. I do hear a clicking sound coming from the top/back of the intake. on the right. around the egr valve area. This is that last thing to figure to get it running right and i can figure it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 Timing light bought. Timed the engine. That was a pain in the Ass!! But now I need to adjust the tps since I accidentally moved it... Lol. It doesn't seem to do much different besides it comes out of od way to easy. Usually at 35-40i could accelerate a bit and it would stay locked up. Is the tps supposed to affect the idle? It's still idling about 1200 but it has more power now that the timing is on. Still goes up and down a bit when I first start it or press the gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Yes it'll affect idle, the ECU needs to know when the throttle plate is completely closed so the AAC, IACV, and injectors can do their thing properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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