edicer2 Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 ok ill try a o2 and the cat is only a year old it could be bad its a high flow magnaflow same with the muffler is a 40 seriers muffler. When i look at the temp gauge when its doing it its at like 1/4 temp maybe which is just a slight bit hotter than normal but not much. its was about zero degrees when this last happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Okay, Edicer your pathy problem has just about got me beat, I got one more trick up my sleeve: Riddle me this, does the power loss ONLY occur when your in 4-High? Once the power loss does occur, what happens if you shift into 4 Low or 2 high; do you then get your torque back? I'm all tapped out, if it's not something in the transfer case that is somehow binding up or something, I just don't know. Oh yeah, when the power loss does happen, what does the engine do? Does it bog down and struggle or does it revv up to 5, 6000 rpm? This is weird because your truck is a manual, it's not complicated. The engine runs and there is a direct transfer of power to the ground. If the engine is still trying to make power and just flys away that would have to be a clutch issue. If the engine struggles and coughs and bogs then that would be something up top i.e. fuel, air, spark or exhaust flow, or engine management; ecu, egr. My final answer is either something weird in your transfer case or the clutch is just letting go after being pushed too hard but can still hang on for normal driving. That has to be it. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Willing to bet clutch, probably on its last legs to begin with. Once you heat it up its going to slip more. Are you doing all of this "spinning" in 4hi or low? Save your clutch a bit using 4low. Rocking back and forth to extricate yourself, you shouldn't be spinning the tires too much anyhow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 yeah its only in 4hi i never trid 2wd or 4lo i was just in 4high the whole time so maybe it is just the clutch slipping when it gets hot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 You said in your first post it bogs down, right? That's not the clutch... if it was it'd be slipping, revving up, and going nowhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 yeah it boggs really bad to the point where it almost dies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 okay then, definetly NOT the clutch. At this point systematically you're back at square one with the basics. You already know it's not your intake or exhaust because those are opened up freely; so now it's about fuel, spark and engine management. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 Could the ECU be going into limp mode after a bit of abuse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted January 14, 2013 Author Share Posted January 14, 2013 (edited) thats possible which idk maybe my o2 is causing that to happen? i havent ran my codes yet since i bought the truck....maybe i should do that sometime soon. only problem is its hard to make it repeat it self unless i go out in the middleof no where and get stuck and beat on it. Edited January 14, 2013 by edicer2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo94 Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Any updates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 2.5" exhaust is fine. I run Obx headers/2.5" exhaust and my truck has tons of power. I would check spark plug gap, check engine grounds (all of them!), check all electrical connectors for corrosion or loose pins, clean the maf sensor (I use sensorclean maf spray, works wonders), replace the o2 sensor with a new NGK sensor, and run some redline s1 or seafoam in your fuel for a tank. Make sure the fuel filter and air filter are clean. I use 199x 300zx twin turbo fuel filter. It's cheap and its huge and it fits right in place of the stock one. Also check vacuum lines for leaks or cracked hoses. Take care of those and I am willing to bet it will run much better, if it still doesn't have enough power....well.... vg33 swap time! Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saculer Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 Just spitballing here ('cause I'm a noob), but could your tailpipe be getting plugged up in the deep stuff, only to melt out after a few minutes wait? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 To shoot another spitball, maybe the oxygen sensor or its wiring is compromised. In normal driving, the sensor would stay pretty dry (being hot and all) and run fine, but sink it in deep mud/snow and it cools down and the moisture gets in and fouls the reading? Has it ever done its fatigue thing in dry conditions? If this is the case, the failing sensor could help explain the lack of power around town. Then again, mine doesn't like hills either, and it's in good working order so far as I can tell. It'll do 45-50 on a steep hill, but only if I push it really hard (second gear, 4k rpm and up). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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