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Flywheel


andreus009
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Well, my clutch took a dive the other day so out will be coming the transmission. This will be the second clutch I've installed. I machined the flywheel the last time I replaced the clutch. Should I just machine it again or replace entirely? If replace entirely..what brand should I go with? Sachs? AcDelco?

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2 notes: several people have been able to scoot back the tranny enough to replace the clutch and I know I'd try that before I pulled it entirely, and unless you know the flywheel is damaged, I'd wait to see how it looks before I replace it.

 

I traded mine in for a resurfaced unit at a local Napa for about the same a machine shop would charge; $70 IIRC. JamesRich made a good point about things needing shimming if this is done due to the difference in thickness, but I guess I was lucky as I never had an issue for the next 30k+ I put on it, even after the accident... :whistle:

The biggest arguement against having it machined is time and gas. Getting a quote, dropping it of, picking it up, etc. If you can walk in to a parts house with the old one as a core and just grab another, it's more efficient to me. :shrug: (your favorite emote :lol: )

 

B

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I don't even bother with resurfaced flywheels, I think it was around 50 bucks for the fresh Sachs brand one she i did the last HB clutch I did (though I know prices go up over time) and it wasn't worth the effort of resurfacing in my mind... and I'm normally cheap!

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Well, I didn't shim it the first time, so I guess if I re-machined then I'd definitely need it this time. The last clutch was put in sometime before 2001 and it's been wheeled hard some the last couple years so I'd be very surprised if there wasn't some damage to the flywheel. Also, was planning to do the pilot bushing again since things would be open.

 

$70 is enough to buy new on RockAuto or at least most of new if I went with the ACDelco one. Anyone know the quality of Sachs vs ACDelco? Even though or because of the Pathy being primarily a wheelin vehicle now I want to make sure I put in good quality parts cause it's gonna get some abuse.

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I agree the flywheel should be resurfaced. As long as I can get to my clutch before it goes out I don't plan to resurface the flywheel. If nothing else scratch the surface with a scotch pad or something.

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  • 4 weeks later...

FYI, I am doing the flywheel dance right now...

>Factory PF flywheel should be about 23 lbs.

 

A resurfaced factory flywheel will be 21-22 lbs. have one of these; 21 lbs, and I certainly felt the difference before and after but my wife did not. (she is not as in tune with the feel of a vehicle)

 

SACHS New flywheel is 20 lbs. This will shorten your clutch life a little and hurt you a little on hilly traffic and towing. (best used in cars)

 

->Zoom Flywheels are 23 lbs and a very good option For stock replacement

 

--->Brute Power Flywheels are 25 lbs and make a nice upgrade for towing, hilly traffic and pushing through mud/trails. It will help some for rock crawling but the best rock climbers are automatics. (This is what will be going into my wifes vg33+ AND my upcoming vg34er)

 

There is a RARE 28 lb vg30 flywheel but I do not what it came on or where to find more. (maybe on the super rare flatbed duallie hardbodies? If you find one make sure to steal the full floater h233b as well) This would make the ultimate wheeling and towing flywheel.

Edited by MY1PATH
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OK, the clerk at ROCK AUTO LIED TO ME. Brute power is 20 lbs just like the sachs!

Now I have to the expensive return dance again. they better cover it all this time.

 

 

I guess I'll try zoom from summit...

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I'm looking at a frontier one right now. It has "JAPAN OWO" stamped on it just like my 3.3 and 3.3 heads. The dish on the back side is allot smaller than the Rock Auto Flywheel sitting on my table. I wrote the seller to weigh it for me.

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That's an interesting way to look at it. Is it possible to compare the inertia of an aftermarket 20 lbs flywheel to a OEM 23 lbs flywheel? In theory if the inertia is the same there should be no problem running either one.

 

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/flywheel-energy-d_945.html

Edited by Tungsten
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That's an interesting way to look at it. Is it possible to compare the inertia of an aftermarket 20 lbs flywheel to a OEM 23 lbs flywheel? In theory if the inertia is the same there should be no problem running either one.

 

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/flywheel-energy-d_945.html

Simply put, the location of the weight in an aftermarket flyweel is just not there. It is not thicker in any other place but it has a HUGE dish out of the back side...

You have roughly 1/2" of materiall inside the ring gear and then a square edge where it drops into the dish and the dish runs all the way to the center where it meets the bolt pattern at a slight taper.

The Heavier OEM's have about 2.5-3" of material iside the ring gear and then they taper in and back out to the bolt pattern in the center. So pretty much all the added weight the OEM's have is located outward because the outside of the dish is smaller. I will find you pictures to illistrate this (eventually) You won't need cad, the difference is very visible.

 

BUT I did find part numbers... and list price from dealer (PM your NPORA parts guy for better quote)

 

12310-0W001 25LBS $468 Xterra and Frontier VG33E

12310-02P24 24LBS $375 Pahfinder VG30I

12310-02P19 22LBS Pathfinder and Pickup VG30E, superceedes 12310-02P24 (if ask a dealer for 12310-02P24 they will likely give you this)

12310-5S700 12LBS VG33ER, Must have been aluminum. I'm sure its Great for full race motor or a dessert runner but otherwise YUCK lol

 

and VQ flywheels are nearly 40 lbs becacuse they are so wimply down low.

I ended up buy Luk Flywheel LFW220. Amazon lists the weight of it as 22 pounds. Honestly, didn't know there was a difference in weight.

 

 

My wife didn't notice a difference either. Maybe I have a flywheel/spider sense lol.

Edited by MY1PATH
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The way I see it.

 

Heavier flywheel = More momentum.

 

The difference between a 20 lb and a 24lb flywheel, now I'm curious if there's much of a difference.

 

 

Now that VQ flywheel sounds like fun....

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Are you sure your machinist didn't mess up the surface? Maybe its not flat. Also clutches have a break in period of like 500 miles or something like that. I know you are familiar with vehicles so I'm not trying to insult your intelligence. I did some quick math and in worse case scenario your only talk 10% difference in inertia going from 23 lbs to 21lbs.

 

I posted this in 'Rock Auto Woes' but I guess it didn't get seen.

 

I actually calculated a 11% difference but that assumed that the flywheel was solid all the way to the center, so I took a little off because I know its not solid at the center. The sad thing is I meant to look at the Luk flywheel sitting in my garage last night to get better dimensions.

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the Revs defantely drop faster too when you let off the gas between gears I can see the difference night and day between my truck and the wifes. Mine being OE TBI 24lbs

and hers being resufaced OE MPFI (22lbs -0.070") about 21 lbs. That's a 3 lb difference between our trucks.

 

All the added inertia on the 24 and 25 lb flywheels is towards the outside. The center mass and about 2" outside the center bolt pattern appear to be the same on all of them.
I'll see if I can get those pics uploaded later tonight.

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That's an interesting way to look at it. Is it possible to compare the inertia of an aftermarket 20 lbs flywheel to a OEM 23 lbs flywheel? In theory if the inertia is the same there should be no problem running either one.

 

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/flywheel-energy-d_945.html

The only thing outside of the added weight is a machined lip and the ring gear.

 

OEMvsaftermarketflywheel_zpsc5ec0832.jpg

 

Do you crawl with your pathy?

Mine yes, nothing crazy but the added weight helps. My wife's, not yet, but stall resistance would be a good thing when she loses her virgin tires.

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